Located just south of Tangier in northern Morocco, picturesque Asilah overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and is a popular summer getaway for locals and visitors alike. The fortified seaside town has many charms, including safe swimming beaches, picturesque streets painted in soft shades of white and blue, and excellent restaurants inspired by the town’s Spanish heritage. Many visitors travel to Asilah to explore its historic center, or medina, where cobbled streets, carved doors, crowded souks, and bustling squares offer authentic opportunities for shopping and socializing.
A brief history
Present day Asilah dates back to the ancient Phoenician port of Zilis, founded around 1500 BC and located a few kilometers northeast of the current settlement. Much of the Asilah medina was built under Muslim Arab rule between the 8th and 10th centuries AD. However, the dramatic walls that surround it were built by the Portuguese, who conquered the city in 1471. The Portuguese maintained control of Asilah until 1589, when it briefly returned to Moroccan rule before being taken over by the Spanish.
In the 17th century, the Moroccans regained control of the city and in the 18th and 19th centuries it became a notorious base for pirates. This led to widespread bombardment by the Austrians in 1829 and from 1912 to 1956, Asilah was once again part of Spanish Morocco. Today it has regained its independence, but its colonial past is reflected in the clearly Iberian flavor of its cuisine and culture.
Exploring the medina
All visits to Asilah must start in the medina. The historic city center is a treasure trove of Portuguese, Spanish and Moorish architecture, best explored on foot. Enter through one of the two main gates (Bab el-Kasaba or Bab el-Homar) and spend a day admiring the carved doors and elegant historic buildings of the old town. Look out for the famous Asilah murals, which adorn the walls in and around the medina. These wall paintings are sometimes commissioned and always held every summer during the annual Asilah Cultural Festival.
The medina is full of authentic Moroccan souks, where skilled bargainers can get great bargains on North African furniture, jewelry, and spices. Asilah is recognized as an artist’s paradise, and as such, the handmade and custom crafts are of a particularly high quality here.
Walls and beaches
The iconic walls of Asilah were built by the Portuguese over 500 years ago and have been restored many times since then to remain incredibly intact today. However, they still have a lot of old world charm and offer the perfect place for a sunset stroll or to take aerial photos of the city and the ocean below.
Although the ramparts plunge directly into the sea in many places, Asilah has its fair share of beautiful beaches. The best is Paradise Beach, located 1.5 miles / 3 kilometers south of the medina. Clean and beautiful, it’s a great place to swim, sunbathe, or even ride a camel through the sand. There are other good beaches north of Asilah that can be reached by taxi or horse-drawn carriage.
Where to stay
Asilah is full of traditional Moroccan guesthouses or riads, many of them in or near the medina. These lodging options are defined by their intimate size, atmospheric rooftop terraces, and personalized service. Recommended riads include Hotel Dar Manara, Hotel Dar Azaouia, and Christina’s House (the latter is a good option for those on a budget). A little out of town, the laid-back Berbari Guest House is perfect for those looking for a rural escape, while Al Alba is a great option for those who prefer hotel living with the benefit of a great restaurant.
When to visit
If you want to enjoy the beach, the summer months (June to September) have warm water and bright sunshine. However, this is also the peak time for tourists, both local and foreign, so prices skyrocket and the city is crowded. Winter (December to February) can be cold; Therefore, spring and fall are the best times to visit with pleasant weather and minimal crowds. The Asilah Cultural Festival takes place in late July or early August.
Get there
Asilah is a 35-minute drive from Tangier Airport and about an hour’s drive from Tangier Ville port. Taxis are available from both. You can also get to Asilah by train from Tangier, Casablanca, Fez or Marrakech. Long-distance buses stop in Asilah – check with CTM or Supratours offices for an up-to-date schedule. Getting around Asilah is easy, either on foot in the medina, or by shared taxi, mini-taxi, or horse-drawn carriage. There’s never a shortage of transportation, but haggling is advised, as is figuring out in advance what a reasonable fare might be to get from A to B.
This article was updated and rewritten in part by Jessica Macdonald.
