Visiting County Meath? This part of the Irish province of Leinster has a number of attractions that you won’t want to miss. Plus some interesting sights that are a bit off the beaten path. So why not take your time and spend a day or two in Meath, also called the ‘Royal County’, when visiting Ireland?
Meath facts for you
Learn the basic facts about County Meath, so your visit will start from a well-informed base:
- The Irish name for County Meath is Contae na Mhí , the literal (and rather unexciting) meaning is ‘The Middle’.
- Along with County Westmeath, County Meath once formed Ireland’s “Fifth Province”, the one that is politically in the middle of things.
- Cars registered in County Meath will have the letters MH on their license plates.
- The county town is Navan, other major towns include Ashbourne, Dunboyne, Dunshaughlin, Kells, Oldcastle, and Trim. Especially those cities near the Dublin border have grown enormously during the boom years, hosting travelers more than anything else.
- Meath is 2,338 square kilometers in size.
- According to the 2011 census, 184,135 people live here, since 1991 County Meath’s population grew by 75%, this is the fastest population growth in Ireland and mainly due to the ‘expansion’ of Dublin.
- The county’s most common nickname is ‘Royal Meath’, after the former seat of the Irish High Kings on the Hill of Tara.
- With the 1690 battle site, the River Boyne, Meath has the most important “pilgrimage site” for Unionists.
Bru na Bóinne
Meath is not just ‘Royal County’, it is full of historic and majestic sites. However, the pride of the place must go to Bru na Bóinne, which provides a very informative visitor center and a gateway to the Newgrange and Knowth passage tombs. Access to both is by guided tour only and they all start at the visitor center (which is well signposted, but actually on the other side of the river).
The rebuilding of the mound at Newgrange might be debatable, but it is impressive. If you want to get away from the maddening crowds (in summer), head to Dowth, the third main mound of the Bru na Bóinne complex, freely accessible, unrestored and often abandoned in solitary peace.
The country hill
Perhaps second only to fame after Newgrange, the Hill of Tara is more of a general feeling of antiquity than a tangible sight. When you come here, you will see something akin to a not very well kept golf course or rough landscaped park. Only with a guide and a little imagination can you explore the hidden wonders of this sprawling resort.
The audiovisual show in the visitor center helps a lot, walking up the Hill of Tara with an open mind and a little time (maybe) will open up its mysteries for you. Those tourists who jump off the bus, check your list and have a quick look will not get the most out of this site. Personally, we recommend cool, cool winter mornings around sunrise, if you can live with sheep droppings.
Tayto Park
Tayto Park is a “theme park” in County Meath and aimed at families with children, although the selection of animals on display also makes it interesting for adults. It is very good to spend a day with the family, quite good if you visit without children and you are not looking for peace and quiet. The focus is on physical activity and a learning experience, a very welcome change from passive entertainment. This is an excellent destination if you need to keep the kids entertained in the greater Dublin area and the weather is with you.
Loughcrew
If you are interested in megalithic culture and art, you must make a beeline for here, a view much less frequented than Newgrange and Tara, but of similar importance: situated on a group of hills near the town of Oldcastle, you will find the second most large (after Carrowmore in County Sligo) megalithic graveyard in Ireland, Loughcrew. Although on an elevated site, access is via a steep uphill hike.
The astronomical alignments make the Loughcrew tombs as interesting as their distant (and larger) cousins in Bru na Bóinne. And they are free to explore, picking up the keys at Loughcrew Gardens, which is also worth a visit for relaxed walks and a nice cup of tea.
Kells
The famous ‘Book of Kells’ (not actually made in Kells) may rest in Dublin, but the small town of Kells is worth a visit. From whichever direction you approach, you will most likely see its main feature, the round tower. Tucked away in a corner of the old cemetery right on top of a hill, it is certainly a landmark.
And surrounded by tall crosses, an unfinished one that offers an interesting insight into the art of the mason. The medieval church tower is also worth exploring, as is the Kells Third Tower, a lighthouse-like structure in the People’s Park.
Slane hill
Saint Patrick challenged the Great King of Tara here, today the challenge may be to find the place. Slane Hill is situated just outside the picturesque village of Slane, but you may have to ask the locals to find the easiest way. I don’t know how Patrick did it. However, he climbed up here, looked at Tara, and then violated everything the Irish held sacred by defying the ancient orders of high kings and lighting a bonfire before Tara went out. A challenge if there ever was one. Makes you wonder how he survived. Divine intervention, perhaps?
Trim
If you like your strong castles and medieval towns, the heritage town of Trim is the place to go. Once the most important fortress outside of Dublin and the seat of Anglo-Norman power, it still fascinates. Having the largest castle ever in Ireland helps. It still stretches along the banks of the Boyne, though much of it is in ruins these days.
Take a tour of the central tower building, the view from the top alone is worth it. Many more medieval remains await the visitor, whether nearby or just a short walk downstream. Enough to spend most of the day here. And then ending this excursion into the Middle Ages visiting the splendid remains of Bective Abbey just a short (but winding) drive from the city.
The Battle of Boyne
The Battle of Boyne has an iconic status in the history of Ireland, William III forced to cross the Boyne River to continue towards Dublin, James II fled the battle and finally Ireland. All in a fight for the crown of England. The battle site has been rebuilt in cooperation between the government of the Republic and the Orange Order as part of the peace process. And the museum in the restored Oldbridge House will tell you the whole story without prejudice.
