Silk sarees from Kanchipuram in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu are among the best sarees in India. As you might expect, there are a lot of fakes out there. Sometimes it is not easy to detect them either.
What makes Kanchipuram Saris special?
Kanchipuram saris (also called Kanjivaram saris) are often referred to as the South Indian answer to Varanasi’s North Indian Banarasi silk saris. They are distinguished by their motifs and their heavy fabric of silk and gold. Due to their prestige, they are only used at festivals and other important occasions.
The silk weavers in Kanchipuram are believed to be descendants of Sage Markanda, a master weaver who wove fabric from lotus fiber in Hindu mythology. Due to the intricate nature and complexity of Kanchipuram saris, it takes anywhere from 10 days to a month to complete one.
The original and genuine Kanchipuram sarees are woven from pure mulberry silk from neighboring Karnataka and golden zari (thread) from Gujarat. Three strands of silk are used in the process, which gives the sarees their weight. A Kanchipuram saree can easily weigh two kilograms, or more if a lot of zari is worn! The bodies and edges are woven separately and then interwoven to make the bond so strong that the edge does not come apart even if the saree is torn.
The edges of the Kanchipuram saree are usually very different in color and design from the rest of the saree. All kinds of motifs are intertwined in its patterns, such as suns, moons, cars, peacocks, parrots, swans, lions, elephants, flowers and leaves.
- Interested in how Kanchipuram saris are made? Breakaway offers a craft tour of the Tamil Nadu looms that includes Kanchipuram.
Protection of Kanchipuram Saris
Kanchipuram saris are protected by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999. Only 21 cooperative silk societies and 10 individual weavers have been authorized to use the term. Any other trader, including textile factory owners in Chennai, who claim to sell Kanchipuram silk saris can be fined or jailed.
If you are buying a Kanchipuram sari, be sure to look for the special GI tag that comes with authentic saris.
Tipos de Kanchipuram Saris
Today, there are three types of sarees.
- Pure silk and pure zari. These are the original and genuine Kanchipuram sarees with three silk threads used to weave them. Prices start from around 6,500 rupees for a saree with a simple border. Elaborate sarees can cost Rs 40,000. The price can even reach 100,000 rupees.
- Pure silk and textile / medium fine / zari tested. These types of saris are very common. They are lightweight, have attractive colors and designs, and the price starts from as low as 2,000 rupees. The downside is that the zari can deteriorate and turn black over time, as it is not pure.
- Polyester / silk blend and sheer zari . These types of sarees look like the original Kanchipuram silk sarees, but they weigh and cost less. Artificial silk (art silk) is commonplace these days. Sarees can also be made with pure silk but only with a single thread (not three). Expect to pay around 3,000 rupees upwards.
This means that when purchasing a Kanchipuram saree, you will need to be specific about the type that you want. Don’t walk into a store and ask for a silk saree!
Where should you buy Kanchipuram Saris?
If possible, buy them where they are made: Kanchipuram. Located less than two hours from Chennai, it can be easily visited on a side trip from Chennai. Besides saris, Kanchipuram is famous for its multitude of temples, so there is a lot to see there!
Do not rely on guides or taxi drivers and automatic rickshaw drivers to take you to sari shops as they are likely to suggest places that will earn you commission. There are many stores in Kanchipuram that sell fake silk sarees, so do your research beforehand!
Saris are available both from government-run silk cooperative societies (where the proceeds go directly to weavers) and from commercial stores. The best option depends on the type of saree you want.
Cooperative societies, most of which can be found along Gandhi Road, sell genuine Kanchipuram saris made from pure silk and zari. The price is higher and there is less variety to choose from. However, the quality is guaranteed. Popular cooperative societies include Arignar Anna Silk Society (beware of knockoffs), Murugan Silk Society, Kamakshi Amman Silk Society (famous for exquisite bridal saris), and Thiruvalluvar Silk Society.
Commercial stores have a much wider range of designs, but the quality is not that great. These stores will mainly sell saris that are not made with pure zari. Of course, this is fine if it is what you are looking for! Just be aware of the difference. The most popular stores are Sedas Prakash and AS Babu Sah. Other recommended stores are Pachaiappa’s Silks, KGS Silk Saris, and Sri Seethalakshmi Silks (they have a good collection of heavy silk saris). Most of the shops are located on Gandhi Road and Mettu Street.
Note that the pure zari used in Kanchipuram saris is a silk thread covered with flattened silver in the center and gold on the outer surface. To test the zari , scratch or scrape. A red silk should emerge from the core.
