Glasgow Cathedra l is Scotland’s oldest cathedral and the only one to survive the Scottish Reformation of the 15th century intact. Officially named as St. Kentigern’s, but generally known as St. Mungos, it is owned by the Crown, rather than any church, and run by a government agency, Historic Environment Scotland. How this happened and what you can see here is related to the complicated history of Scotland, so first:
A history of Glasgow Cathedral
The founding of the Cathedral and the city of Glasgow happened around the same time. St. Kentigern founded a creek monastery called Molindinar Burn sometime in the 5th century and a community grew up around it. When he died, in 603, he was buried in his church, probably a small wooden church, in the place where the present Cathedral now stands. The stone cathedral that you can visit today was built in the 11th and 12th centuries and consecrated during the reign of King David of Scotland in 1136.
The tomb in the lower crypt or church is believed to be that of Saint Kentigern.
You may have also noticed that the Cathedral has many names. It is also called High Kirk of Scotland and is named after a saint by two different names. So what is that all about?
San Kentigern or San Mungo
St. Kentigern was born to an area Scottish princess who became Lothian and Owain, King of Rheged, an area currently in the North West of England and the Scottish Borders. Some stories say that they were lovers, others that she was raped by Owain. Either way, he was still married when she got pregnant. Her father, not pleased, threw her off a cliff. Fortunately, she survived only to be adrift in a coracle that floated to Fife, where St. Kentigern was born. Kentigern was the name by which he was baptized.
Later, he was raised by Saint Servant who ministered to the Picts. St. Serf gave him the nickname Mungo, which means little darling. The people of Glasgow, who grew up around his church, preferred to call it that, hence the confusion of two names.
How the church kept its roof
The Scottish Reformation was part of the Protestant Reformation throughout Europe, but Scotland did not join England. It was a separate sovereign kingdom with ties, through its monarch, to France. It remained a Catholic country for almost 30 years after Henry VIII separated from Rome. Henry’s dissolution of the monasteries caused great destruction of the English abbeys. But in Scotland, the royal family continued to have Catholic leanings. The destruction of the churches and cathedrals there was a bottom-up movement, often carried out by anti-Catholic crowds.
Apparently the people of Glasgow were too fond of their beautiful Gothic cathedral to destroy it. One theory is that Glasgow at the time had such a large population that wandering and destructive iconoclasts were a minority there.
While it was stripped of its connections to Rome, it was turned into a parish church. For a time he had three different congregations using parts of it. But in the mid-19th century, authorities recognized its historical and aesthetic significance and handed it over to a Church of Scotland congregation. Today, although it is commonly referred to as a Cathedral, it is actually a Glasgow High Kirk.
How to visit Glasgow Cathedral
The Cathedral is open to the public for visits every day, except from December 25 to 26 and from January 1 to 2. The faithful are welcome to attend services on those days, as well as normal Sunday worship. Visits are free. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Opening hours vary according to the season and are different for the lower church, where the crypt is located, and the upper church. Please visit the Historic Scotland website for up-to-date information on opening hours. The Cathedral is located in the center of Glasgow, about a 15-minute walk from George’s Square Station and Queen Street, Glasgow’s main train station.
You can also take the 38 or 57 SimpliCITY buses operated by First Greater Glasgow.
The highlight of a visit
The cathedral stands on a hill. As a result, it is on two levels with an upper and lower church. Among the highlights:
- The crypt of St Kentigern built in 1200 to house the remains of the founder of the church and of Glasgow.
- An unusual arrangement of three aisles in the nave. Look up at the ceiling of this third shorter hallway. It is known as the Blackadder Hall, named for the bishop who had it built. The ceiling is particularly richly carved and studded with colorfully painted protrusions.
- A carved stone screen between the choir and the nave, called a pulpit and added in the 14th century.
- One of the finest post-WWII stained glass collections in Britain. Look especially at John Clark’s Millennium Window and Francis Spear’s 1958 Window of Creation.
- Take a guided tour of the cathedral. Volunteer guides are available to take one to three people on a one-hour guided tour of the church. The visit is free, but donations to the church are suggested.
Things to do near Glasgow Cathedral
The cathedral is the oldest building in the city and is located in its most historic area. Nearby visit:
- Provand Manor: Glasgow’s second oldest building was built in 1471. It is one of only four surviving medieval houses in the city. It is furnished as it would have been in the 17th century and is adjacent to a tranquil herb garden typical of its time.
- St Mungo’s Museum of Art and Religious Life – Created on the site of a medieval bishops’ palace, the museum is designed to resemble an ancient building, according to its neighbors, the Cathedral and Provand Manor, but is actually a modern structure. Its galleries explore the role of religion in the life and culture of people around the world and of all religions. It may seem quite dry, but this unique museum is filled with fascinating works of art – modern and old, permanent and visiting exhibits. If you have come to see the Cathedral, you really should cross the street to this unusual place.
- The Glasgow Necropolis: The necropolis occupies a stony hill next to the cathedral and high above Glasgow, with stunning views of the city. It was originally planned as an arboretum and garden park, but in the early 19th century it was turned into a deliberately designed cemetery to be similar to the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris. It is filled with elaborate Victorian mausoleums and stone angels. There is a full program of free walking tours you can book that explain the history, design, plants and wildlife, and famous residents of the Necropolis. The park covers 37 acres and visits or tours last approximately two hours.
