Traditionally, the main focus of Christmas decorations in Italy is the nativity scene, presepe or presepio in Italian. Each church has a presepe and they can be found in squares, shops and other public areas. Displays often go beyond the manger scene and may even include a representation of the entire village.
Presepi are usually set from December 8, Immaculate Conception Day, through January 6, Epiphany, but some are featured on Christmas Eve. Most Italians have installed a Christmas crib in their home and figurines for nativity scenes are made in many parts of Italy, with some of the best coming from Naples and Sicily. Although the presepe is usually set up before Christmas, baby Jesus is added on Christmas Eve.
Origins of Italian nativity scenes
The Nativity scene is said to have originated with Saint Francis of Assisi in 1223 when he built a nativity scene in a cave in the city of Greccio and held a Christmas Eve mass and nativity contest there. Greccio recreates this event every year.
Carving figures for nativity scenes began at the end of the 13th century when Arnolfo di Cambio was commissioned to carve marble figures for the first Jubilee of Rome celebrated in 1300. Said to be the oldest permanent Christmas crib, it can be seen in the museum of Santa Maria Iglesia Maggiore and is one of the best things to see in Rome during the Christmas season.
The best places to see Christmas cribs, or Presepi , in Italy
Naples is the best city to visit for its presepi . Hundreds of nativity scenes are erected throughout the city. Some nurseries are very elaborate and can be made by hand or use old figures. Starting on December 8, the Church of Gesu ‘Nuovo , in Piazza del Gesu’, exhibits works of art of nativity of the Napolitan Association of Bethlehem. Via San Gregorio Armeno street in the center of Naples is full of exhibits and stalls selling nativity scenes throughout the year.
In Vatican City, a huge presepe is built in St. Peter’s Square for Christmas which is usually unveiled on Christmas Eve. A Christmas Eve mass is celebrated in St. Peter’s Square, usually at 10 p.m.
In Rome, some of the largest and most elaborate presepi are in Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Euclide , Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Maria d’Aracoeli , on the Capitol. A life-size nativity scene is installed in Piazza Navona, where a Christmas market is also held. The Church of Santos Cosma e Damiano , next to the main entrance of the Roman Forum, has a large nativity scene from Naples on display throughout the year.
Nativity Scene in the Grotto: Every year a beautiful life-size nativity scene is created and transported to the Grotte di Stiffe, a beautiful cave in the Abruzzo region, about 32 km from L’Aquila. The scene is illuminated and can be visited during December.
Verona has an international exhibition of nativity scenes in the great Roman stadium until January.
Trento, in the Alto Adige region of northern Italy, has a large nativity scene in Piazza Duomo .
Jesolo, 30 km from Venice, has a sand sculpture nativity scene made by the best international sand sculpture artists. It takes place daily in Piazza Marconi until mid-January. Donations are used to fund charitable projects.
Manarola in Cinque Terre has a unique ecological nativity powered by solar energy.
Celleno, a small town in the northern Lazio region about 30 km from Viterbo, has a magnificent presentation ready to be seen all year round. Celleno is also famous for its cherries.
Many churches in Milan have elaborate nativity scenes around Christmas.
Some churches in small towns have a mechanical setup, with moving figures, like this mechanical setup in Pallerone, a small town in the Lunigiana region of northern Tuscany.
Museos Nativity scene in Italy
Il Museo Nazionale di San Martino in Naples has an elaborate collection of nativity scenes from the 19th century.
Il Museo Tipologico Nazionale del Presepio , below the church of Santos Quirico e Giulitta in Rome, has more than 3000 figures from around the world made from just about anything you can imagine. The museum has very limited hours and is closed in the summer, but they are open every afternoon from December 24 to January 6. In October they have a course where you can learn to prepare the presentation yourself. Telephone 06 679 6146 for information.
Il Museo Tipologico del Presepio in Macerata, in the Marche region, has more than 4000 pieces of nativity scene and a presentation of Naples from the 17th century.
Living Nativity Scenes , Italian Belén Viviente
Live nativity contests, presepi viventi , are found in many parts of Italy with costumed people representing parts of the nativity. Live nativity scenes are often presented over several days, usually on Christmas Day and December 26, and sometimes again the following weekend, around Epiphany, on January 6, on Christmas Day 12, when the Three Wise Men gave their gifts to the Child Jesus.
Best Places to See Living Nativity Scene, Presepi Viventi , in Italy
Greccio, Umbria, was the site of Saint Francis’ first live nativity (a simple silent painting of the Holy Family with an ox and a donkey). Greccio still has one of Umbria’s main Christmas events, an elaborate, live nativity with hundreds of participants.
The Frasassi Gorge has one of the largest and most suggestive nativity scenes in Italy. Held on a cliff near the Frasassi Caves, the Genga Nativity Scene includes a procession up the hill to a temple and scenes from everyday life during the time of Jesus’ birth. More than 300 actors participate and the proceeds go to charity. It is usually held on December 26 and 30.
The beautiful medieval town of Barga, in northern Tuscany, has a live nativity scene and a Christmas contest on December 23.
Custonaci, a small town near Trapani in Sicily, has a nativity scene recreated inside a cave. A small town was buried in the cave by a landslide in the 19th century. The cave has been excavated and now serves as the setting for interesting live nativity events from December 25-26 and early January. More than a nativity scene, the town is set up to resemble an old town with artisans and small shops.
The evocative town of Equi Terme, in the Lunigiana region of northern Tuscany, represents a representation of the nativity that takes place throughout the village in a beautiful hillside setting.
Milan has an Epiphany Parade of the Magi from the Duomo to the Sant’Eustorgio church, on January 6.
Rivisondoli, in the Abruzzo region, has a reenactment of the arrival of the 3 kings on January 5 with hundreds of costumed participants. Rivisondoli also presents a live nativity on December 24 and 25. Also in the Abruzzo region, L’Aquila and Scanno have nativities alive on Christmas Day like many other small villages in the region.
Live nativity scenes in the Liguria region include the cities of Calizzano, Roccavignale and Diano Arentino during December.
Vetralla, in the northern region of Lazio, has the oldest living nativity in the region. Chia, near Soriano, also in northern Lazio, has a great nativity scene on December 26 with more than 500 participants.
