Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, is commonly known as the man who in 432 brought Christianity to the Irish and drove the snakes off the Emerald Isle. While both claims are suspect, the historic Patrick appears to have been a very successful missionary in the northern part of Ireland.
And a tour that follows in their footsteps certainly makes for an interesting departure from the beaten track.
Dublin
The tour begins in Dublin, at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, while the current structure owes much of its appearance to the 19th century and was erected in the 13th century. Today’s ‘National Cathedral of Ireland’, however, replaces a much older structure commemorating Patrick. The saint himself is said to have baptized converts in a nearby “holy font.” In fact, a spring covered with a slab with a cross has been found during renovation work. Today it can be seen in the cathedral. Also on display are the banners of the Knights of Saint Patrick, an order of chivalry instituted by British King George III in 1783, but virtually disappeared since 1922.
The second place to visit in Dublin is the National Museum on Kildare Street. In the collection of medieval artifacts, two have a reputed connection to Patrick. A beautiful “bell shrine” dates from around 1100, but was used as a reliquary to commemorate the saint. And a simple iron bell is also on display. With this bell, Patrick called the believers to mass, at least according to tradition, science dates from the bell of the 6th or 8th century.
Statues, murals, and church windows depicting Saint Patrick, more than often in non-historical garb, abound in Dublin as they do everywhere in Ireland.
From Dublin, a short drive takes you to Slane, a small town with four identical houses at the main crossroads, a castle used for rock concerts and the
Colina de Slane
The Hill of Slane, a rather remarkable landscape feature, was already used in prehistoric times as a pagan place of worship or for competitions. There may be a connection to the nearby Hill of Tara, the former seat of the High Kings of Ireland.
Around Easter, Patrick chose the hill of Slane for his spectacular showdown with the pagan King Laoghaire. Just before Laoghaire could light his traditional (and royal) spring fire on Tara, Patrick lit his Easter fire on Slane Hill. Two opposing fires, representing opposing belief systems, on opposing hills: If ever there was a spiritual “Mexican showdown,” this was the case. Today the hill of Slane is dominated by ruins and tombs. Patrick himself is reputed to have built the first church here, then Saint Erc founded a monastery next door.
However, the ruins seen today are from later times, as construction and renovation works have obscured all traces of early Christianity.
From Slane you will drive through Ireland to the west, passing Westport with its historically correct statue of Patrick (as a humble shepherd) and finally reaching Clew Bay.
Croagh Patrick
This is the ‘holy mountain’ of Ireland: in fact, religious rituals seem to have been celebrated as early as 3000 BC! C. on the small plateau at the top! The impressive mountain by the sea seems to have attracted devotees at all times, prehistoric sacrifices were enacted here.
Patrick himself climbed the mountain to find peace and solitude. Spending forty days and forty nights fasting at the top, fighting demons and desires, all for the spiritual well-being of his Irish brethren. So successful that his feat is still remembered and celebrated today. Which in turn means that peace and solitude are harder to find at Croagh Patrick today!
If you want to climb the 2,500-foot-tall mountain, start at Murrisk. You can buy or hire thick walking sticks here (recommended), and check the requirements for a pilgrimage. You will then begin climbing on a steep, pebbled route, occasionally slipping and sliding, stopping frequently to enjoy the views, pray, or just to catch your breath. Unless you are on a pilgrimage, only attempt the ascent if you are reasonably fit and bring food and water. The views from the top are spectacular, the amenities certainly aren’t.
If you visit Croagh Patrick on Garland Sunday (the last Sunday in July), you will meet thousands of pilgrims, some trying to climb barefoot! Beware of the Order of Malta Ambulance and Mountain Rescue stretcher teams transporting victims to the nearest first aid station …
From Croagh Patrick, head east and north towards Donegal, in the direction of Lough Derg and St Patrick’s Purgatory.
Lough Derg and St. Patrick’s Purgatory
The Tractatus de Purgatorio Sancti Patricii , written in 1184, tells us about this place. Here Patrick supposedly entered purgatory and lived to tell the (heartbreaking) story. While the historical background is sketchy at best, the small island at Lough Derg became a pilgrimage site in the Middle Ages. In 1497, the Pope officially declared these pilgrimages undesirable, and Puritan Cromwell’s soldiers destroyed the site. But interest in St Patrick’s Purgatory was revived in the 19th century, and today it is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Ireland.
During the main season (between June and August) thousands of people visit Station Island in organized retreats. Some are only invited for one day, while others perform three days of prayer and fasting, standing in ice water and sleeping only for short periods. The pilgrimage is variously described as an “inspiring recharge of faith” or a “penance for sin.” It is certainly not a tourist attraction per se. Visitors curious about the history of Lough Derg will find the Lough Derg Center in Pettigo more to their liking.
From Pettigo, you will pass through Lower Lough Erne to the
Armagh City – the «Cathedral City»
No other city in Ireland seems to be more dominated by religion than Armagh – you can’t throw a stone without destroying a church window! And both the Catholic Church and the (Anglican) Church of Ireland view Armagh as the center of Christian Ireland. Both denominations have massive cathedrals on opposite hills!
The Cathedral Church of Saint Patrick (Church of Ireland) is the oldest and most historic of them. Legend tells us that in 445 Patrick himself built a church and founded a monastery here, elevating Armagh to “main church of Ireland” in 447. A bishop has resided in Armagh since Patrick’s time, in 1106 the title was elevated to archbishop. The Great King Brian Boru is said to be buried in the cathedral grounds. Patrick’s church, however, survived neither the Viking raiders nor the turbulent Middle Ages.
The current cathedral was built between 1834 and 1837, officially “restored.” Built of red sandstone, it incorporates older elements and has other artifacts on display inside. The visually striking stained glass windows are worth the steep climb alone.
Definitely more modern is the Cathedral Church of Saint Patrick (Catholic), built on a hill a few hundred meters away and much more imposing with its ornate facade and twin towers. It began on St. Patrick’s Day in 1840, was built in disconnected stages, plans were revised midway, and only in 1904 was the cathedral finally finished. While the exterior is splendid, the interior is simply astonishing – Italian marble, grand mosaics, detailed paintings, and imported German stained glass combined make this the most spectacular church in Ireland.
Readers of “The Da Vinci Code” might also be delighted: both the window showing the Last Supper and the statues of the Apostles above the entrance show a definitely female figure …
Your journey continues to the capital of Northern Ireland, the
Belfast City
Visit the Ulster Museum next to the Botanical Gardens and the imposing Queen’s University. In addition to recovered gold from the Spanish Armada and an eclectic collection of art and artifacts, the bunker-like museum contains an arm and hand-shaped sanctuary. This richly decorated gold box is reputed to house Patrick’s royal arm and hand. The fingers are shown in a gesture of blessing. Maybe not a true relic but certainly impressive.
Spend some time sightseeing and shopping in Belfast, and then head southeast, following the roads along Strangford Lough to Downpatrick.
Downpatrick
The Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity is signposted and you will find it at the end of a cul-de-sac that overlooks the city. The first church here was built to honor Patrick’s own burial place:
Originally the hill had been used for defensive earthworks in prehistoric times and Patrick was busy nearby. But when the saint died in Saul (see below) several congregations claimed the undisputed right to bury him. All the other congregations naturally disputed exactly this. Until a monk suggested a higher authority to settle the matter, he hitched two wild oxen to a cart, tied Patrick’s body to the cart, and let the oxen run free. Finally they stopped on the hill and put Patrick to rest. A huge granite rock with the simple inscription ‘Patraic’ marks the famous burial site since 1901.
Why exactly Frances Joseph Bigger chose this location is unclear.
The early church did not survive: in 1315, Scottish troops sacked Downpatrick and a new cathedral was only completed in 1512. This fell into disrepair and was eventually rebuilt in a romantic ‘medieval style’ between 1790 and 1826. Today the cathedral simulated medieval is a gem! The small dimensions and the elaborate but tasteful details give it a unique charm.
Below the cathedral, you’ll find the modern Saint Patrick Center, a multimedia celebration of Patrick’s Confessio. A visit is a must, this is one of the best attractions of its kind in Ireland. The Supreme Glory is a cinematic presentation in a special theater with almost 180 ° screens, which makes the helicopter flight over Ireland very dynamic.
You are now near the end of the tour – from Patrick’s grave, take a short drive to Saul’s village.
Saul
In this unremarkable area, one of the most important events in Irish history took place. It is said that Patrick landed near Saul in 432, obtained a piece of land as a gift from the local lord, and proceeded to build his first church. 1500 years later, a new church was erected in memory of this momentous occasion. Architect Henry Seaver built the small, low-key Church of St. Patrick, adding a fair representation of a round tower and only a stained glass window depicting the saint himself.
A fitting tribute. And an ideal place, generally quiet, to meditate on the saint and his works.
After this, you can complete your tour by driving back to Dublin.
