The province of Ulster, or Cúige Uladh in Irish, encompasses the northeast of Ireland. The counties of Antrim, Armagh, Cavan, Derry, Donegal, Down, Fermanagh, Monaghan and Tyrone make up this former province. Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan are part of the Republic of Ireland, the rest are the six counties that make up Northern Ireland. The main cities are Bangor, Belfast, Craigavon, Derry and Lisburn. The Bann, Erne, Foyle, and Lagan rivers flow through Ulster. The highest point within the 8,546 square miles of the province is Slieve Donard (2,790 feet).
The population is constantly growing and is currently estimated at more than two million. Around 80% of these live in Northern Ireland.
A brief history of Ulster
The name “Ulster” derives from the Irish tribe of the Ulaidh and the Norse word Stadir (“farm”), the name is in use both for the province (correct) and to describe Northern Ireland (incorrect). Ulster was one of the first centers of culture in Ireland, this is reflected in the number of monuments and artifacts found here. With Protestant settler plantations beginning around the 16th century, Ulster itself became the center of sectarian tension and violence. Today Ulster is recovering on both sides of the border, with the six northern counties of Ireland still polarized into two distinct fractions.
Long considered one of the most dangerous places in Ireland and all of Europe, Ulster has changed almost without recognition due to the peace process. Ulster is safe and should not be missed. Museums, castles, famous cities and natural attractions are waiting for you.
Giant’s Causeway
The best view in Northern Ireland and accessible by car and bus (if the rather steep final mile seems too daunting) – the famous Giant’s Causeway. The strangely regular basalt columns point the way to Scotland, seen on the horizon on good days. Travelers with some free time are advised to visit the nearby Old Bushmills Distillery, connected by a steam train.
Liga Slieve
Despite similar claims from the Cliffs of Moher, the Slieve League cliffs near Carrick (County Donegal) are officially the highest in Europe. And they are still quite natural. A small winding path leads to a gate (remember to close it) and two parking lots. Those who suffer from vertigo should definitely leave the car in the first. And walk from there.
Derry City
Long dominating the headlines with sectarian violence, Derry City (the official name) or Londonderry (still the legal name according to the letter) now attract more shoppers and tourists than journalists. The famous city walls that withstood the Siege of Derry (1658) can be traversed and allow views of the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods, both with their own murals and flags showing allegiances.
Glens de Antrim
Several valleys stretch inland from the Antrim coast, nestled between the ridges of forested hills. This is an ideal country for long walks. Some of the best amenities can be found at Glenariff Forest Park.
Belfast City
Ulster’s largest city, Belfast, is still divided along sectarian lines, but life seems as normal as possible to the visitor. At least in the city center. See the picturesque Opera House and splendid City Hall, have a pint at the historic Crown Liquor Saloon or the Europa Hotel (“The most bombed hotel in Europe!”), Enjoy shopping or a cruise on the Lagan. Or just enjoy the animals at the Belfast Zoo.
Ulster Museum of Transport and Folklore
The “Village of Cultra” is a faithful recreation of Ulster life in the 1900s, complete with local industries, farms, and no less than three churches. The buildings are original relocated or rebuilt. Across the road is the Transportation section of the museum, with huge steam locomotives and a very good Titanic exhibit.
Ulster American Folklore Park
You may hear bluegrass music floating in the air. Or occasionally see Union troops pass by, followed by a few Confederates. Special events are numerous in this huge park. But the usual emphasis of the Ulster-American Folk Park is on emigration from Ulster to the United States. And visitors can relive this experience, going from humble cabins to a busy city street, boarding a sailboat and arriving in the “new world.”
Strangford Lough
This is not a lake but a sea inlet, which the necessary use of the Portaferry ferry to Strangford will make obvious. Hundreds of islands dot the lake, in one you will find the lost monastery of Nendrum with its round tower. Visit St. Patrick’s Center and Downpatrick Cathedral on the trail of Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland. Alternatively, watch the wild birds at Castle Espie, visit the splendid Mount Stewart House and Gardens, or climb Scrabo Tower (near Newtownards) for the best view.
Florencecourt
Florencecourt is one of the splendid “great houses” found in Ireland. Although it burned down in the 1950s, the house has been restored and is now under the care of the National Trust. But the house itself is only part of the attraction. The huge grounds are a feast for the eyes and invite for long (but never strenuous) walks. Several once necessary workshops such as the sawmill or the forge are located. And don’t miss the granddaddy of all Irish yew trees in the gardens!
Carrickfergus Castle
Situated on the north shore of Belfast Lough and the landing site of William of Orange in 1690, this small town has a pleasant center with old and new architecture combined to good effect. The pride of the place, however, goes to Carrickfergus Castle. Standing on a basalt ledge near the shoreline, this medieval fortress is still intact and a visit may even include a medieval banquet. You can also visit the nearby Andrew Jackson Center, a recreation of the ancestral home of the seventh president of the United States.
