The best thing to do in Kinsale is literally spend some time and explore this small County Cork town (around 5,500 inhabitants) at your leisure. With sailboats in the harbor (Kinsale literally means “tidal head”, and is at the mouth of the River Bandon), colorful houses and narrow streets Kinsale is such a “typically Irish” town that it almost hurts. Some critics dare to suggest that Kinsale is more like a Hollywood (or even Bollywood) idea of rural Ireland. But that’s what visitors want, after all, and most won’t be disappointed.
However, there is no argument about one thing: with its many restaurants, cafes, bars and pubs, Kinsale can claim to be the culinary capital of Cork, and even Ireland. The annual Kinsale Gourmet festival in October is a fixture on many fans’ calendar. On the other hand, recommending a restaurant in Kinsale is a futile exercise, as almost all of them are excellent.
Therefore, the best thing to do in Kinsale is to start with a walk around the city and then slowly go to whatever establishment you feel like (or can afford, because one thing Kinsale is certainly not a budget destination).
Charles Fort
Not the eminent writer, but the fortification south of Summer Cove, towering over the entrance to Kinsale Harbor. Built during the second half of the 17th century, after a Spanish invasion used Kinsale as a practical landing point, this fortress, along with the less spectacular James Fort opposite, literally dominated the approach. Today it is still in good shape, despite the fact that many buildings were burned down by the IRA in the 1920s. While it is a fantastic fortress, the planners made a big mistake as it is located much lower than the mass. surrounding land. Therefore, in 1690, William of Orange’s troops had an easy choice: Charles Fort was indefensible against attack on the ground. By the way, Charles Fort could have been one of the last buildings that Alexander Selkirk saw in 1703, when he left Ireland on his fateful privateer journey that would end in years of solitary isolation … then it will be told as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe
Church of St. Multose
The Church of St. Multose was originally erected around 1190 in the Norman style, but has been converted several times over the centuries. A Romanesque style portal and the 17th century tombs are particularly noteworthy.
Black Brewery
If you like your beer fresh and made by artisans, why not visit Black’s Brewery in Kinsale? Opened just a few years ago, they have a store and also offer tours of the brewery. Their beers come in a wide range, from IPA to barley wine, and they also provide a very fine gin. You’ll find the brewery on Farm Lane, a bit outside the city center, just try the Eircode P17 XW70 on Google Maps for directions.
Desmond castle
Also known as the ‘French prison’, this is a fortified house from the early 16th century, built by the Earl of Desmond, hence its name. In later years it was used as an arsenal, as a customs building and as a jail. And when some French POWs were imprisoned here during the Napoleonic era, the building acquired its Gallic nickname. Today the impressive building houses a wine museum (international, an exhibition on Irish wine would be small), supported by local restorers. One focus is the influence of Irish emigrants in the international wine trade.
Kinsale Regional Museum
The Kinsale Regional Museum is housed in a former courthouse that has been preserved much in the old style. And it is of historical importance: the investigation of deaths due to the sinking of the RMS Lusitania in 1915 was carried out here. The museum highlights this tragic event, but its artifacts from the city’s history are more interesting when they border on the banal, such as the great poster from 1788, detailing local taxes and excise duties. The traditional dress of the women on display, long, black and with a hood, also has some curiosity… Kinsale must have looked like a shelter for monks on rainy days.
Fishy fishy
As noted above, recommending a restaurant in Kinsale is next to impossible… but if you really like your fish, head to Martin Shanahan’s “Fishy Fishy” restaurant. It’s not the cheapest option in town, but perhaps one of the best, if not the best, for locally caught seafood. Look for the seafood chowder (€ 8 per plate) or the fish cake (around € 24).
Kinsale’s old head
The Old Chief of Kinsale, seeing that the RMS Lusitania was sunk by a German submarine, is about a twenty minute drive from Kinsale proper: follow the R604 in a southwesterly direction. A small monument to the sinking of Lusitania can be found near a small parking lot and a ruined tower. Up ahead, on the road to the Old Head of Kinsale proper, marked by the lighthouse in the distance, it is forbidden for safety: patrons of a private and exclusive golf course do not want to be disturbed. Still, the view is worth the drive!
El Festival Gourmet Kinsale
The Annual Kinsale Gourmet Festival is the place to be if you want to experience the full frontal assault of Kinsale’s chefs (and guests) on your palate (and waistline). Definitely worth going if you know your food and want to be eaten by some of the best restaurants in Ireland. Pencil mid-October weekend for this event. And bring an appetite. Two-day tickets (including food and drink) cost € 175; single day: € 95.
