The diamond is considered the “king of all precious stones”. Sparkling, glittering and above all: expensive. More and more diamonds are being cultivated. Barely visible to the naked eye. But with the right technique.
Pforzheim – Jeanette Fiedler holds around 150,000 euros with tweezers. They sparkle in the light. Because the diamond, 3.53 carats, is perfectly cut and can break the light rays of the ceiling light in many ways. It’s a real one.
But that doesn’t reveal the sparkle. Artificially produced, so-called synthetic diamonds, which are significantly cheaper, do the same. “The same real diamonds look and you can even produce them in any quality,” says the managing director of the German Diamond Institute (DDI) foundation in Pforzheim.
Because that’s the way it is and the manufacturers are supplying better and better products, Fiedler had to upgrade the technology: Modern devices are in the laboratory. They help Fiedler and her colleague Lore Kiefert distinguish synthetic diamonds from real, natural diamonds.
No “fake” diamonds
The latter can radiate bluish under UV radiation. A small box indicates synthetics with bright red. Those where it is unclear are circled in green. Further testing is required here.
With the help of infrared light, Kiefert examines, for example, which elements other than carbon – for example nitrogen – are included in the diamond and in what ratio. Based on such information, the stones are assigned to certain categories. Technically, this is referred to as the crystal structure.
The DDI has existed since 1976. As in other laboratories, diamonds are tested here, especially for specialist dealers. As an expert, Fiedler also scrutinizes heirlooms – or rather: under the microscope. Even in UV light, for example, a bracelet shows that not every diamond shines bluish. “Perhaps a stone got lost and was perhaps replaced by a synthetic one for cost reasons,” suspects Fiedler. She does not speak of “fake” diamonds.
“We sell emotions”
“With the topic of synthetic diamonds, this is becoming increasingly important,” says Joachim Dünkelmann, Managing Director of the Federal Association of Jewellers, Jewelery and Watch Shops. Where there are large price ranges, criminal energy also arises. But if you have well-qualified employees, you don’t need external expertise. Not even if you have a good supplier – they bring proof with them.
Nevertheless, such experts are important, says Dünkelmann. “We sell emotions and very valuable products.” You don’t even close deals like this on an online platform.
Just recently, a rare and particularly large black diamond was sold at an auction in London for the equivalent of around 3.7 million euros. The 555.55-carat “Enigma” stone is the largest cut diamond ever to be auctioned, according to auction house Sotheby’s.
“No one wants crooked”
First of all, to produce synthetic diamonds, you need extremely high pressure and temperatures to press carbon. This in turn requires a lot of energy in addition to the technology. Means: high costs.
But it can be worth it: Synthetic diamonds the size of a one-carat with a diameter of around six millimeters in jewelery quality can be had for as little as 800 euros, says Fiedler. Natural diamonds of average jewelery quality are available for 5,000 to 6,000 euros. Synthetic diamonds are not an investment and have no resale value. “But you can also afford a piece of jewelry that looks like a real diamond for relatively little money.” Their appearance should be as perfect as real ones: “It’s like the banana,” says Fiedler. “No one wants crooked.”
For eternity
While there are few problems abroad with mixing real and synthetic diamonds, Germany is different, she says. “Here there is still a clear black and white thinking.” This is probably due to the fact that diamonds have a high immaterial value – for example in weddings as a symbol for eternity.
The topic has been occupying the jewelry and watchmaking industry in Germany for some time. However, according to the Federal Association of the Gemstone and Diamond Industry, there are no reliable figures for real and laboratory diamonds. The industry is very secretive, argues Managing Director Jörg Lindemann.
The right know-how
The work of the laboratory is important for dealers and end customers in order to have security, says Fiedler. TV programs sometimes give the impression of being able to give such examinations with a mere glance. In fact, many jewelers would have trained for such initial assessments. The DDI also offers training courses. But when it comes to the nitty-gritty, you need specialist knowledge, for example about thermal conductivity and fluorescence behavior, as well as the necessary technology.
The National Diamond Council lists a wide variety of devices on its website. Some cost a little over 1000 euros, for others five-digit prices are given or you have to ask the dealer yourself – which does not speak for bargains. It doesn’t make sense for every jeweler or goldsmith, nor for every laboratory, to buy the most expensive machines, says Fiedler.
As a rule, an examination for a detailed certificate takes two hours. The expertise costs 150 to 200 euros. If it’s just a question of authenticity, things go much faster. dpa
