A light green trouser suit at Fendi or an oversized blouson at Diesel: To kick off Milan Fashion Week, designers are showing colorful fashion in what feels like dark times.
Milan – Brilliant start to Milan Fashion Week. The Roman luxury label Fendi is starting the Spring/Summer 2023 season with lots of satin and shimmering metallic surfaces. The show on Wednesday afternoon was the first highlight of Milan Fashion Week.
Bright colors were also visible in the basis of a neutral color palette around brown and gray tones, led, for example, by a poisonous green. Kim Jones (49) has been responsible for Fendi’s women’s collection for two years. He succeeded Karl Lagerfeld, who held the position for 54 years until his death in February 2019.
Floral pattern reinterpreted by Lagerfeld
“I look at what Karl has done and then think about how I can develop it further – both visually and in terms of craftsmanship,” explains the British designer in the press release for the collection. For the current show, he dealt with Lagerfeld’s work between 1996 and 2002 and, for example, reinterpreted a floral pattern from that time.
Jones often showed simple basic forms into which he sprinkled refined and surprising details: slits, cut-outs, straps, wrap effects, layers, asymmetric straps. Again and again he plays with matt-shine effects, for example on a light green trouser suit or when he integrates skin-tight, ribbed cashmere tops into the satin elements.
Diesel comes with glamor and sexiness
Denim label Diesel already presented itself on Wednesday morning with a mix of street style, glamor and sexiness. Both the women’s and the men’s collection were shown. Black camouflage meets bright flower patterns here, baggy pants with patch pockets are shown next to ultra-short minis, oversized blousons next to almost floor-length coats.
The Milan Fashion Week program includes around 210 events up to and including Monday, including more than 60 major shows. All the big names in Italian fashion are there. In the coming days, Versace, Prada, Gucci and Giorgio Armani, among others, will be showing their latest women’s collections. dpa