NewsOktoberfest outfit: dirndl and lederhosen have become established

Oktoberfest outfit: dirndl and lederhosen have become established

Created: 09/05/2022, 12:58 p.m

Dirndl und Lederhose
Very few visitors will come in their everyday clothes. Dirndl and lederhosen should determine the dress code at the Wiesn. © picture alliance / dpa

30 years ago, dirndls and lederhosen were still the exception in the marquee, but now they are as much a part of it as beer. Is there a dirndl dogma?

Munich – It’s hard to believe today, but there was said to have been a time when dirndls and lederhosen were the exception at the Munich Oktoberfest. A time when people there wore jeans or even leather jackets.

That was still the case in the 1980s, says Tobias Appl, district home nurse in the Upper Palatinate. Today, however, the trend towards traditional costumes is unbroken, “the peer pressure is so great that everyone wears it”, even if “first observations from cultural studies show that it is no longer 100 percent”.

According to him, the trend is no longer just in Bavaria: “Far away from southern Germany, many folk festivals are now equipped with what are supposedly Bavarian costumes. I have already seen such pictures from Hamburg.”

People come to the Wiesn in dirndls or lederhosen

“It’s totally established and it’s not hype that will go away,” agrees Simone Egger from the Institute for Cultural Analysis at the Alpen-Adria-Universität Klagenfurt. And Alexander Wandinger from the center for traditional costumes in the district of Upper Bavaria says: “A certain dogma has developed: Wiesn and traditional costumes are twins.”

And so this year – as in the years before the Corona pandemic – the world’s largest folk festival will probably be teeming with people in dirndls or lederhosen.

“At the Wiesn you tend not to see the traditional costume that traditional costume clubs would really call such, but rather cheap dirndl from the main train station – or in the more noble boxes then any salmon-colored designer dirndl for several thousand euros,” says Appl and speaks of ” dress up” and “Trains of an international carnival in autumn”.

Wandinger attributes the unwritten dress code not only to the desire for a certain sense of togetherness, but also to eroticism: lederhosen are very masculine clothing, the dirndl is very feminine, while women’s fashion has been “very androgynous” since the 20th century. be. Breaking out of this seems appealing to many, he says.

So it’s no coincidence that the Angermaier company now sells lederhosen with a built-in condom compartment.

Classic lines and muted colors are trendy

Rainer Wenrich, art and fashion expert from the Catholic University of Eichstätt, expects a “trend towards classic lines and classic shapes” this year, more muted colors and dirndls that are no longer so short.

He emphasizes the “anticipatory” function of fashion, which can often predict how a social mood will develop. “It has been clear for some time that times are getting a little more strenuous and that is also reflected in the traditional costume fashion.” must be the shortest variant of the dirndl and not the funniest variant of the lederhosen.”

This is confirmed by Angermaier boss Axel Munz, who counts flip-flops at the Wiesn as one of the biggest fashion sins there. Dirndl “with a lot of chichi” are not particularly in demand this year. He also sees a trend towards longer dirndls, as well as towards velvet and high-necked lace blouses. But his team is also busy making changes, he says – so that the additional corona pounds also fit into the costume bought before the pandemic.

Development towards more quality

Dirndl designer Astrid Söll confirms the trend away from too much brevity and sees a development towards more quality and dirndls that outlast the Oktoberfest season for a long time. Munz and expert Wenrich agree that sustainability is a big topic in traditional costume fashion.

When wearing a costume, it is particularly important that it remains “a game”, as Wandinger says, and that the costume is not used politically, for example to exclude others.

He can understand that Prime Minister Markus Söder (CSU) was criticized, especially from other parts of the Federal Republic, for having welcomed US President Joe Biden at the G7 summit with a traditional costume association: “If I were a North German, that would annoy me too. “

For Egger, dirndls and lederhosen are primarily “projection screens”: “Some people project a bad ass image that they have of Bavaria – and for others it is a sign of their roots or solidarity. Society makes these items of clothing what they want to see in them.” dpa

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