Christmas cribs from the workshops in Naples are world famous. After the pandemic hit the traditional companies hard, hope is growing again in the picturesque alley in the old town.
In Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, the anti-Covid rules also apply to the Three Kings: this year, instead of gold, frankincense and myrrh, the artistically designed porcelain figures carry the Green Pass with them. And Mary, Joseph and the Shepherds are also offered for sale in face masks. Nowhere in the world is the run-up to Christmas so creative and so imaginative, so exotic and opulent as in this narrow alley in Naples’ old town. The pandemic has brought a lot of suffering and grief to the lively city at the foot of Mount Vesuvius – but the irony with the vaccination certificate for the three kings and the masks for the Holy Family helps get over it.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is the realm of the Neapolitan nativity scene builders. For many generations, a total of 38 handicraft businesses have been producing everything that belongs in a decent Italian Christmas crib – and also what actually does not belong in it: You can also buy small statues of politicians, local musicians such as the late Pino Daniele, and also by footballers – above all, of course, by Diego Armando Maradona, who led SSC Napoli to two championship titles in the eighties and who therefore also enjoys saint status among the people living in Naples.
Not only the more or less original nativity figures are in demand, but above all the nativity scenes themselves, which are made from wood, cork and moss. As a rule, those who build the cribs do not limit themselves to the stables in Bethlehem, but rather create entire landscapes with several, sometimes multi-story buildings, in which women and men pursue their trade – in the forge, in the bakery or in the greengrocer’s shop . In particularly elaborate cribs, artificial embers flicker in the pizza oven or a small stream drives a mill wheel. There are no limits to your imagination when it comes to designing the cribs.
green pass
In Italy , anyone who has been vaccinated, recovered or tested receives a “Green Pass”. From today, the “Super Green Pass” is valid, which allows vaccinated and convalescents access to public events, restaurants, bars and clubs, among other things. The “Green Pass” is still valid for public transport and hotels. FR
Last Advent, Via San Gregorio Armeno, which is usually overrun by travelers in the run-up to Christmas, was largely deserted: Naples – like all of Italy – was in a long and hard lockdown. “Not a single soul has appeared – no tourist, no local, no one,” says Luciano Capuano. Together with his brother Vincenzo, he is the fifth generation to run the “Fratelli Capuano” crib workshop, which was founded in 1840. It is one of the most important by San Gregorio Armeno: in 2002 she built a nativity scene for the Spanish royal court. The whole of 2020 was a very difficult time: “We were here in our workshop and worked, but without being able to sell a single crib,” emphasizes Capuano.
Because the then government of Giuseppe Conte provided almost no corona aid for the crib builders in Naples, the existence of many of the small businesses was threatened. But then there was spontaneous solidarity among the crib builders – who normally see themselves primarily as competition -: “Everyone who could did it helped others who were in need. We didn’t let anyone down and did everything we could to ensure that no one had to close, ”emphasizes Gabriele Casillo, President of the Association of Crib Builders. And in fact nobody had to sell their business, although some investors had already speculated on business in San Gregorio Armeno.
In the meantime, normality has returned to Naples’ Krippengasse: for a few days now, the stream of Italian and foreign tourists who want to be enchanted by the very special atmosphere of San Gregorio Armeno has been swelling. “But when you hear the news broadcasts, of course, you worry again,” says Luciano Capuano.
The number of cases is also increasing in Italy, albeit at a rather low level compared to all other European countries. In order to prevent a possible new lockdown, the crib builders in Naples did what they could: They all got themselves vaccinated, without exception. “San Gregorio Armeno is covid-free,” emphasizes Luciano Capuano. “Let’s just hope that will be enough.”
