Connacht is the western province of Ireland, and with only five counties, it is the smallest of all. Still marked on some old maps also called “Connaught”, Oliver Cromwell pointed to the Irish rebel “To hell or to Connacht!” This should not be seen as a negative omen for the visitor because Connacht has so much to offer.
The geography of Connacht
Connacht, o en irlandés Cúige Chonnacht , abarca el oeste de Irlanda.
Galway, Leitrim, Mayo, Roscommon and Sligo counties make up this former province. Connacht’s main cities are Galway City and Sligo. The Moy, Shannon and Suck rivers flow through Connacht and the highest point within the 661 square miles of the area is Mweelra (2,685 feet). The population is growing steadily – in 2011 it numbered 542,547 and nearly half of them live in County Galway.
Connacht’s story
The name “Connacht” derives from the mythological figure Conn of the Hundred Battles. The local king Ruairi O’Connor was the High King of Ireland at the time of Stongbow’s conquest, but the Anglo-Norman settlement in the 13th century started the steady decline of Irish power.
Soon after, Galway developed important commercial ties with Spain, becoming more powerful in the 16th century. This was also the heyday of local “Pirate Queen” Grace O’Malley, a native of Connacht. The Catholic settlement under Cromwell, the Battle of Aughrim (1691), the French General Humbert’s invasion of 1798, and the Great Famine (1845) were the most important historical events in this western province.
Connacht in Ireland today
Today the economy and way of life in Connacht are mainly based on tourism and agriculture. Connact’s largest city, Galway City, is the notable exception because, in addition to being a popular tourist stop, it also has several high-tech industries and a university. However, for the most part, a vacation in Connacht would be more rewarding for lovers of nature and a slow, old-fashioned pace of life.
These are the counties that make up the Province of Connacht:
Galway County
Galway (in Irish Gaillimh ) is perhaps the best known county in the province of Connacht, especially Galway City and the Connemara region. The county extends over 2,374 square miles and has (according to the 2016 census) 258,058 inhabitants. Compared to 1991, this denotes an increase of 40%, one of the fastest growth rates in Ireland. The county town is Galway City, and the simple letter G is identifying the county on Irish license plates.
There are many beautiful places in Galway, such as Lough Corrib and Lough Derg, Maumturk and Slieve Aughty Mountains, the series of peaks known as the Twelve Pines (or the Twelve Bens), the Shannon and Suck rivers, as well as the Connemara region and Las Aran Islands are on the tourist route. Galway City had a reputation for being a young and vibrant city, with many students, a laid-back lifestyle, and buskers playing live music to the left, right, and center (of the city). However, readers of the prolific perpetrator Ken Bruen might have a slightly different picture of the city.
In GAA (Irish sport) circles, Galway players are known by two names, either as ‘The Herring Chokers’ (an offense based on the fishing industry) or as ‘Tribesmen’ (a direct adaptation of the city’s nickname Galway »City of Tribes«, the tribes in question are wealthy merchant families).
More information about County Galway:
an introduction to county galway
Things to do in County Galway
Things to do in Galway City
County Leitrim
Leitrim (in Irish Liatroim or Liatroma , the letters on the license plate say LM) is perhaps the least known county in the province of Connacht. Just 610 square miles of land are home to just 32,044 people (as the 2016 census found). Since 1991, the population has grown by approximately 25%. Leitrim is one of the quietest counties in Ireland and has one of the highest numbers of vacant houses which are the result of an aggressive, but ultimately flawed, holiday home tax incentive policy.
The name Leitrim means “gray ridge,” and the view of some higher ground stretches certainly makes it an appropriate name. Tourism bodies like to talk about “Lovely Leitrim”. Common nicknames are also “Ridge County”, “O’Rourke County” (after one of the major families in the area) or, on a literary theme, “Wild Rose County” (the romance “The Wild Rose of Lough Gill »is located in Leitrim).
Things to do in County Leitrim
Mayo County
May is not the county the mayonnaise comes from, although this is one of the best times to laugh out loud at Pete McCarthy’s “McCarthy’s Bar” Irish Travel Seminar. Instead, Mayo is a county in Connacht called Maigh Eo or Mhaigh Eo in Irish, which simply means “the plain of yew trees.” This plain (which can be quite mountainous in places) stretches over 2,175 square miles and is home to (according to the 2016 census) 130,507 people. The population grew only 18% in the last 25 years.
County Mayo’s town is picturesque Westport, crowned ‘Best Place to Live in Ireland’ in early summer 2012 by the Irish Times. The letters for Mayo on Irish car license plates are MO.
There are a host of nicknames for Mayo, ranging from “Maritime County” (based primarily on the long, rugged coastline and seafaring tradition, which included pirate queen Grace O’Malley), “Yew County” or »Heather County«.
More information about County Mayo:
an introduction to
things to do in County Mayo in County Mayo
County Roscommon
Roscommon (in Irish Ros Comáin ) is the only completely landlocked county in the province of Connacht and rarely visited by tourists. Generally speaking, it’s quiet here, and there are only 64,544 on 1,022 square miles of land (based on the 2016 census). Even so, this is still 23% more than in 1991.
The county town is the slightly old-fashioned town of Roscommon, and the license plates here use the letters RN. While the Irish name simply derives from ‘Saint Coman’s forest’, in GAA circles the players are better known as ‘the Rossies’. The other and more scathing nickname is “the Sheepstealers.” The whispering of the sheep seems to have been the main reason why the people of Roscommon were deported to Australia.
More information about Roscommon County:
an introduction to Roscommon Town
County Sligo
Sligo (in Irish Sligeach or Shligigh ) is the county of Connacht named after the many shellfish, mussels and cockles found in the local waters. The landmass comprises 710 square miles, with (according to the 2016 census) up to 65,535 inhabitants, about 19% more than just twenty years ago. The county town of Sligo is the City of Sligo, and the county license plates say SO.
There are so many nicknames for the county that it’s hard to know where to start. The people of Sligo are known as “Herring Gatherers” (with a nod to the rich deep-sea fishing grounds), and their teams within the GAA are also known as “Zebras” or “Magpies” because they wear a white uniform. and black. Nicknames that are more tourist-oriented include “Yeats County” (hinting at the entire Yeats family, but mainly the poet William Butler Yeats) or “The Land of the Heart’s Desire” (after a Yeats poem).
More information about County Sligo:
an introduction to
things to do in county sligo in county sligo
The best things to see in Connacht
Connacht’s main sights? That may sound strange considering that Cromwell’s threat to Catholics was “to hell or to Connacht” and the province was long regarded as the backwater of all backwaters. Today this really means that most of the wild landscape is untouched by mass tourism. Nature, ancient monuments, and small-scale attractions are the norms, with only a few resort towns and caravan parks. This is the part of Ireland to see the great variety the country has to offer at a slower pace.
Sligo and Area
The town of Sligo itself can be disappointing, but the surrounding area more than makes up for it. Knocknarea has the (reputed) tomb of Queen Maeve at the top and spectacular views to enjoy after a steep climb. Carrowmore is the largest stone age cemetery in Ireland. Drumcliff sports a round (truncated) tower, a medieval tall cross, and WBYeats’ tomb just off Ben Bulben’s spectacular Table Mountain.
Kylemore Abbey
A splendid neo-Gothic font in the middle of nowhere, once designed as a family home, then taken over by Belgian nuns fleeing WWI. The nuns opened an all-girls school (now closed) and a small part of Kylemore Abbey (and its grounds) for visitors. This remains one of the best places to see in Ireland, and visitors will find one of Ireland’s most famous sights (the abbey seen across the lake), a well-stocked craft and souvenir shop, and a good (albeit a times very crowded) restaurant.
Croagh Patrick
Every visitor to Connacht should at least see Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s holy mountain. And if you are capable and willing, you may want to scale it too. The saint stayed at the top for 40 days and 40 nights fasting, but normally one day will suffice for the ordinary tourist or pilgrim. The views are magnificent in good weather. You should also visit the nearby town of Louisburgh. Head to the Granuaile Visitor Center, especially if you have kids: The Story of “Pirate Queen” Grace O’Malley (c.
1530 BC 1603) is stirring things up!
Isla Achill
Technically still an island, Achill is now linked to the mainland by a short sturdy bridge. It is also a favorite vacation spot for those seeking unspoiled scenery, peace and quiet. On the other hand, all this means that Achill is quite busy in the summer. Local attractions include miles of beaches, the former vacation home of German writer Heinrich Böll, a deserted village, an abandoned quartz mine, and dramatic cliffs and mountains. However, the local roads can be daunting and it is best not to look down if you are driving near the cliffs.
Connemara national park
Just below Twelve Pins, a towering mountain range that is also called Twelve Bens, you’ll find Connemara National Park. Pure endless walks in a lush landscape await the visitor. A stop here is highly recommended for anyone who wants to get away from everyday life without too much effort. Be on the lookout for the wild ponies of Connemara, reputed as the last survivors of the Spanish Armada.
Cong – the village of «The Quiet Man»
The first look at this town might convince you that nothing happened here before (or after) John Huston invaded and John Wayne was “The Quiet Man”. Incorrect. The extensive ruins of Cong Abbey (its ‘Cross of Cong’ processional is now in the National Museum of Ireland) and the luxurious hotel at Ashford Castle (the extensive grounds are open to visitors) bear witness to medieval history. Its dry canal is a fitting reminder of the great famine.
The Aran Islands
Life on this island group is a long way from the representation in the seminal film “Man from Aran”. These are some of the best islands to visit in Ireland and the tourism industry is flourishing. Trips are possible by ferry or plane as long as the weather is not so bad. Day trips are good for a first impression and for those who are short on time, but a longer stay will be more rewarding. Inishmore, the Irish name for ‘big island’, is the largest of the group and has the fortress of the Dún Aengus cliff.
Malachy Bodhran Workshop
As you travel through Connemara, visit the small port town of Roundstone, head to the Craftsmen’s Village, and visit Malachy’s workshop. Ireland’s most famous bodhran maker (even featured on a postage stamp) produces these potentially deafening instruments in the traditional way and you can create any design to suit your personal taste. As you contemplate a possible purchase, why not tickle your taste buds with the comfort food on offer? The bread pudding is to die for!
Isla omey
In true Zen style, it’s more about the journey than the destination. The Omey Island of Connacht is nice, it has some ruins, but otherwise not exciting. But oh the way there! Or rather, the road signs that indicate the safest way to cross the seabed at low tide. Make sure you arrive in time to drive across the Atlantic or enjoy long, invigorating hikes. However, be sure to park your car on land or on the island and watch the tide charts. Otherwise, you may not only get stuck on Omey, but your car could be swept into America as well.
Clifden and Cleggan
Clifden is the tourist capital of Connemara and a central place to stay. There are many accommodations available, as well as pubs and restaurants. Although all of this comes at a price, Clifden can be expensive in the summer. You will find two “transatlantic views” nearby. Marconi had his first powerful transmitter in a nearby bog and Alcock and Brown chose the neighborhood to land after the first successful transatlantic flight. The small port of Cleggan is famous for the soup and the ferry to Inishbofin, a perfect destination for a day trip.
However, don’t miss the pretty ruins of Clifden Castle.
