Isan, the northeast region of Thailand, makes up about 30% of the country’s population, but it hits well above its weight when it comes to its dominance in Thai cuisine. Although Isan food is less common outside of Thailand, within the country it can be found everywhere, from street food vendors in Chiang Mai to high-end restaurants in Bangkok. This may have something to do with the fact that millions of Isan people have left the region in search of work; apparently they brought their food with them.
However, it is more than that, as the cuisine is almost universally a favorite with non-Thais and visitors, too.
What makes Isan’s food different from what Westerners think of when they think of Thai food? There are a few flavors and ingredients that seem to dominate: chili peppers, lime, peanuts, dried shrimp, fresh fruits and vegetables, sticky rice, coriander, mint, and other fresh herbs. Although the flavor layers are very complex, food preparation is often quite simple, and instead of curries that have been simmered for hours, fresh and flavorful salads with bright flavor form the backbone of Isan cuisine. . Grilled or fried marinated meats and glutinous rice are often accompanied by one of the many regional “dishes” or salads.
Platos Isan
- Sticky rice In Isan, the rice is prepared as a large, sticky bunch compared to the separate, soft grains that you are probably used to (and will find in most other parts of Thailand and Asia). Sticky rice is served in a small steamer or bag and is best eaten with your fingers, as it is nearly impossible to eat with a fork. Locals will scoop out a bunch of sticky rice and dip it into the salad or other dish they are eating before popping it in their mouths.
- Som tam . Isan’s most popular dish is som tam, a spicy papaya salad made up of grated green papaya, green beans, tomatoes, peanuts, lime, dried shrimp, garlic, bell peppers, fish sauce, and palm sugar. All the ingredients are mixed in a mortar and the result is a salty, spicy, slightly sweet and sometimes very spicy and crunchy salad. There are many variations on som tam, and you will often find it made with salted street crab. Other similar salads are made with Thai eggplant, green banana, or green mangoes.
- Larb and Nam Tok. Larb, which is made with ground beef, and toke nam, which is made with sliced grilled meat, are similar in that they share the same sauce: a mixture of lime juice, fish sauce, herbs and spices, and crispy roasted rice. Larb, which is usually made from ground pork, sometimes has chunks of pork liver as well (some diners find this unappealing, so be sure to ask before ordering). Although tourists don’t know much about larb and nam tok, they become quick favorites once they’ve been tasted!
- Gai Yang. Grilled chicken. Simple roast chicken, often done on a small roadside charcoal grill, is an Isan staple. You’ll also find grilled pork neck and grilled fish. Meats are often marinated in a simple sauce with lemon juice, sugar, and other ingredients, but the flavors are usually not overpowering.
- Gai Tod . Fried chicken. Although we tend to associate fried chicken with the American South, for some reason the people of Isan fry a bad bird! The crunchy coating is sometimes a little sweet, sometimes sprinkled with sesame seeds, and always served with a super-spicy hot sauce. Although the classic Isan combination is gai yang, som tam, and glutinous rice, if you want to enjoy yourself a little, have a little gai tod instead.
- Moo Ping. Marinated meat skewers, usually pork, grilled and served on the toothpick with dipping sauce, are very popular Isan dishes. The marinade is usually a bit sweet, salty, and full of garlic and the meat is fatty and tender. For 5-10 baht a stick, they make a great snack or even a meal out of a small bag of sticky rice. Although moo ping is often mistakenly referred to as satay, the latter is made with a coconut-based marinade and likely originated in Indonesia.
- Isan sausage. This pork and rice sausage is very popular as a late-night snack and is often made into connected balls and cooked on the grill. What makes this sausage, called sai crok, isan, special is that the meat and rice mixture is stuffed into casings and then fermented for a few days before being cooked and served. It sounds risky, but the sour and bitter taste is sublime.
- Isan Alcoholic Drinks. Beer is popular in Isan, and the most popular Thai beer brand is Leo, although you can also find Chang and, in some places, Singha.
