Imagine a long stretch of beach in Goa devoid of any development apart from a few shacks. Although it may seem like a dream these days, it still exists! Galgibag Beach (also known as Galjibag) at the southern tip of Goa is a protected Olive Ridley turtle breeding site, ensuring it remains delightfully intact and free of permanent structures.
The setting is spectacular. There is hardly a soul on this long stretch of unspoiled beach, thickly lined with Casuarina trees. You’ll find most of the people lounging in the handful of simple huts at the southern end of the beach (the northern end is where the turtles breed and are restricted), gorging themselves on seafood, and sipping cold beer.
Apart from the Indian names of the huts and the friendly Indian staff, you may be forgiven if you wonder if you are really in India as the huts are full of foreigners who are drawn to the relaxed and peaceful atmosphere.
Unfortunately, the area will not remain isolated for long, as a new ring road is being built through the village of Galgibag and close to the coast. Therefore, it is better to visit sooner than later!
Get there
Galgibag beach is about a 20 minute drive south of Patnem and Chaudi beach (Canacona). Ideally, it is best to rent a motorbike (about 300 rupees per day) to go there. However, buses leave from Chaudi. Taking an automatic rickshaw is another option.
Eating
The specialty is fresh seafood, particularly oysters, harvested from the nearby Galgibag River. Even if you don’t feel like eating the oysters (although they are fresh and I didn’t feel any ill effects), there are plenty of other delicacies including lobster, crab, prawn, squid, and authentic Goan fish curry.
The best thing is the price, usually half the price of what is charged on the nearby beaches of Patnem and Palolem, and this also applies to the cost of alcohol. Oysters are cheap at only five for around 100 rupees. Although, previously it was possible to get double for the same price.
Santosh seems to have the most popular cabin. It claims that it has been recommended by the famous British chef Jamie Oliver. However, he can’t help but wonder how true it is, when Gordon Ramsay supposedly recommended the next door to Surya.
Slept
It is possible to stay on Galgibag beach. Many of the cabins offer basic rooms starting at Rs 500 per night. It’s a good idea to initially book accommodation at nearby Patnem Beach, or in the stylish restored Villa Turiya in Chaudi, then head to Galgibag Beach and see what’s available.
If you prefer something a little more comfortable, Surya Beach Cafe has brand new rooms and two very stylish luxury wooden cabanas with slate floors on the beach. Rates for the cabins start from 4,000 rupees per night. They can be booked online here. Otherwise, please contact the owner directly by email at [email protected], or call 09923155396 or 09673486849. The season runs from November 1 to April 25.
Alternatively, La Mangrove is a charming boutique spot near the river, with stylish tipi accommodations.