Christmas in Greece means it’s kourabiedes again, and the mild aroma of melomakarona cookies will fill Greek kitchens around the world.
Spend Christmas in Greece
If you are traveling to Greece for Christmas, it is good to remember that many offices, businesses, restaurants and other services may be closed or have unusual hours during the Christmas season. Turkey is a big part of Greek Christmas food customs, and it’s common to find this bird on most Greek Christmas tables. In some areas, the holidays are preceded by a time of fasting. In Greece, the Christmas season is in full swing on December 6, the Feast of Saint Nicholas, when gifts are exchanged, and lasts until January 6, the Feast of the Epiphany.
Christmas displays in Greece
In general, don’t expect as many Christmas displays, lights, or other Western decorations, except of course on the windows of expats and the increasing number of Greeks who have adopted Western customs. Greece has been an oasis of non-commercialism when it comes to Christmas, although some regret that this has changed. In recent years, the city of Athens has sponsored extensive Christmas exhibitions and events in Syntagma Square and in other parts of Athens. However, as the government crisis unfolded and lingered, the celebrations have dimmed somewhat as Greece tries to recover from its financial crisis.
Christmas in Greece is traditionally a solemn and religious holiday. Beautiful Christmas carols called kalandas have been handed down since Byzantine times and add to the reverent quality of the celebration.
Greek Christmas Elf Lore
While other cultures have Christmas elves, the Greek equivalent is not as benign. The mischievous and even dangerous elves called Kallikantzaroi (or Callicantzari ), prey on people only during the twelve days of Christmas, between Christmas and Epiphany on January 6. Descriptions of them vary, and in one area they are believed to wear wooden or iron boots, kicking people is best, while other areas insist they are hooked, not kicked. Almost invariably male, other regions see in them the forms of wolves or even monkeys.
In folk tales, the twelve days of her power are featured in a “wicked stepmother” story in which a girl is forced to walk alone to a mill for the twelve days because her stepmother waits for the Kallikantzaroi to take her away .
The Greek Yule Record
Some homes keep fires burning for twelve days, to prevent spirits from entering the chimney, which is an interesting investment from Santa’s visit in other countries. The “yule log” in this case was initially a massive log placed at the end of the fireplace, burning or at least burning for the entire holiday period. Protective herbs like hyssop, thistle and asparagus were suspended by the fireplace to keep the Kallikantzaroi out . Other households (perhaps less devout) were reduced to a simple bribe and put meat for the Kallikantzaroi , a more substantial snack than the milk and cookies that Westerners traditionally offered for Santa.
On Epiphany, it was believed that the ceremonial blessing of the waters by the local priest would settle the unsavory creatures until the next year. Some local festivals still include performances of these entities, which may be a survival of the Dionysian festivals.
