One of the most beautiful historic squares in Paris, the Place des Vosges is a coveted spot in the French capital to enjoy picnics, walks, shop windows, and admire works of art in intimate local galleries. It is appreciated for its lush gardens dotted with graceful fountains, carefully manicured trees and flowers, and distinctive red brick mansions that line the central parkland.
Stroll through the high-ceilinged vaulted galleries for window viewing, enjoy a meal on one of the decks, or browse for the perfect painting to hang in your living room. In hot weather, we recommend lying on the grass or on a bench to enjoy delicious local street food. Read on to find out more about why this old royal square in the old Marais district of Paris is worth checking out on your next trip, and more about how to enjoy it to the fullest.
A little history
The Place des Vosges has a history dating back to the 17th century, and it is the city’s first formally planned public square. The buildings and central gardens visible today were commissioned by King Henry IV and completed around 1612; the square was originally called “Place Royale.”
A symbol of architectural wealth and grandeur, the square embodied the spirit of the Italian and French Renaissance, with an emphasis on geometric harmony, green spaces, and elevated but accessible heights. Its steep slate roofs and easily recognizable red brick facades make it quite stand out from other buildings in the area, many of which date back to medieval times.
The central garden of the Vosges, known as the Louis XIII Square, is adorned to this day with a statue representing that particular King on his horse.
Built on the former site of the Place de Tourelles, where King Henry II was mortally wounded in a tournament in the 12th century, the new square would become a place associated with the French aristocracy of the 17th and 18th centuries. Louis XIII and Anne of Austria celebrated their engagement here, and the Vosges gardens and galleries were favorite places for aristocrats to gather, dine and gossip.
Famous citizens and apartments
Despite its aristocratic ties, few royals have actually lived in the square: Anne of Austria is one of the few who has occupied one of its large apartments. However, it has been home to numerous famous inhabitants, including Victor Hugo (who resided at # 6), Sully, a celebrated minister to Henry IV (# 7), Cardinal Richelieu (# 21), and Madame de Sévigné, a countess famous for her. Witty and prolific, literary lyrics, he was born at # 1.
What to do on the Place des Vosges?
From picnics and restaurants to museums and art galleries, this grand plaza offers a remarkable number of worthwhile attractions, whether you’re visiting for the first or third time.
Have a picnic
Particularly in the spring and summer when the weather permits, this is one of the best places for a picnic in Paris. We especially recommend stocking up on delicious local street food and laying on the grass to enjoy it in peace. Rue des Rosiers, just minutes away, offers some of the best falafel in Paris (if not the world), and the area is also home to delicious ice cream, crepes, and French bakery items.
Showcase and browse art galleries
The vaulted galleries that gracefully shield the ground floors of the plaza’s opulent mansions from rain and bad weather are filled with high-end boutiques and numerous art galleries. The Art Symbol Gallery, specializing in modern and abstract art, is a well-known and respected gallery on the square, located at # 21 Place des Vosges. A couple of doors down at # 23, the Modus Gallery features the work of contemporary artists from around the world.
Whether you’re looking for a new piece of jewelry or a great piece of art, or just feeling like a showcase, taking a stroll through the covered ‘arcades’ is always enjoyable, even on cold, damp days. Many Parisians go out on Sundays for walks in the Marais to protect themselves and to be distracted until the rain subsides.
Visit the Victor Hugo museum
The author of The Hunchback of Notre-Dame and Les Misérables lived and worked in an apartment on the corner of the square; The small museum on the same site offers visitors a fascinating insight into Hugo’s life and literary endeavors. The collection displays furniture, letters, manuscripts, and other objects related to one of France’s masters of the human condition.
Have a refined meal on the terrace or indoors
The square is also populated by several restaurants offering lunch and dinner. Not all are of excellent quality, but some stand out. The Anne restaurant in the elegant Pavillon de la Reine hotel is relatively new, but it is probably the best place on the square for a celebratory dinner. However, prices aren’t low here, so if you’re on a budget and the weather is nice, stick with the picnic food or choose one of the simpler brasseries located within the covered arcades.
Location and how to get there
The Place des Vosges is located in the 4th arrondissement of Paris, near the boundary between the Marais district to the west and the Bastille district to the east.
If you are coming from the Marais or booking a few hours to explore the area, the easiest way to get to the square is to get off at Metro St-Paul (line 4) and walk for approximately seven minutes along Rue Saint-Antoine and Rue de Birague . Rue de Birague eventually turns into the square, which is almost impossible to miss thanks to its distinctive red brick mansions and lush central park area.
You can also get off at Metro Chemin-Vert (line 8), Bastille (line 5 or 8) or Bréguet-Sabin (line 5) to reach the square. This is especially convenient if you plan to venture into the adjacent Bastille neighborhood later in the day.
What to do nearby?
There are a lot of cool things to do in the area. Learn more about the neighborhood’s century-old history, including its fascinating medieval past and Jewish heritage, on a self-guided walking tour of the Marais.
Head to the Carnavelet Museum for an in-depth but entertaining history lesson about the city of Paris, or check out the masterpieces of a beloved Spanish painter at the nearby Picasso Museum.
For avant-garde style, head to nearby Rue Charlot, where up-and-coming fashion designers have set up their designer boutiques and ateliers in stately 18th-century mansions.
Stroll the Rue des Rosiers and the surrounding streets of the Marais to discover delicious Eastern European and Yiddish bakery treats, enjoy a delicious falafel sandwich at the famous L’as Du Fallafel, and browse some of the many fine and gourmet boutiques. food stores clustered around the area. For tea lovers, afternoon tea and cakes at the Mariage Frères teahouse is the perfect follow-up to a whirlwind through the sheltered corridors in the Vosges.
Finally, head east for a few minutes to the Place de la Bastille, whose towering Colonne de Juillet looms as a poignant reminder of the Revolution of 1830. Here, too, stood the infamous Bastille prison – a riot and fire here marked the beginning of the first revolution in France, in 1789.
At the eastern end of the square, the ultra-modern Opera Bastille is another easily recognizable site, with its glass facade and warm glow at dusk.
