In 1994, a defunct suburban railway on the right bank of Paris that stretched from Bastille to Bercy became an acclaimed, artisanal shopping center known as the Viaduc des Arts. Built of distinctive pink brick, the former viaduct now houses several shops and artisan workshops under its 64 graceful vaulted arches. Here, curious walkers can peruse everything from delicate porcelain paintings, handcrafted wood and glass pieces, art galleries, small and artistic designer clothing, antique shops, and much more.
The complex is also dotted with a number of pleasant cafes and restaurants.
The Promenade Plantée: a green belt above the viaduct complex
A lush, above-ground promenade known to locals as the Promenade Plantée or Coulée Verte (literally “green stream”) was built over the defunct railway. Taking a walk along the Viaduc des Arts and Promenade Plantée will give you a guaranteed respite from the urban routine and allow you to experience a lesser-known part of the city. For those interested in artisan crafts, it is also a way to get acquainted with some of the best artisans in the city, many of whom practice rapidly disappearing arts (paper restoration, handmade flute making, etc. )
Location, access and opening hours:
The Viaduc and the Promenade are in the heart of the area known to locals as the Gare de Lyon / Bercy neighborhood, a quiet, peaceful but uninteresting stretch of eastern Paris. It is also on the edge of the vibrant Bastille district, with highlights including the ultra-contemporary and recently redesigned Opera Bastille, and the old-world charms of Rue de Charonne, with quaint and chic boutiques, trendy cafes, and nightlife in abundance.
Address: Access the Viaduc des Arts and Promenade from the beginning of Avenue Daumesnil ( tip: the closest metro is Bastille, 12th district
You can access the Promenade from stairs at various points along Avenue Daumnesil.
Opening Hours: The Promenade Plantée is open from sunrise to sunset (hours vary depending on the time of year). The shops and boutiques on Viaduc des Arts have different opening hours; check in advance by visiting the official website.
Recommended shops in Viaduc
Some of the resort’s favorite places to shop and enjoy a bite, coffee, or glass of wine include some of the following:
Jean-Charles Brosseau
Handmade and artisan perfumes for men and women.
Address: 129 Avenue Daumesnil
Lily Alcaraz and Lea Berlier
Textile designers specialized in artisan weaving techniques.
Address: 23 Avenue Daumesnil
L’ATELIER LILIKPÓ
Named after Togo’s inspiration, this workshop specializes in beautiful custom-made mosaic decorations in sumptuous colors and patterns.
Address: also at 23 Avenue Daumesnil
Tzuri Gueta.
Designer of “haute couture” textiles, jewelry and accessories.
Address: 1 Avenue Daumesnil
Atelier Dupont des Arts.
Workshop specialized in fine handmade guitars and other musical instruments.
Address: 3 Avenue Daumesnil
Recommended places for a bite or a drink:
Café l’Arrosoir
This café-restaurant offers a good place to get lost inside or outside and enjoy a hot or cold drink, or typical French brasserie food.
Address: 75 Daumesnil avenues
The Viaduct Café
This is another very nice cafe-restaurant with a heated outdoor terrace overlooking the Viaduc and its artisan shops. The rate here, more expensive than at the Arrosoir, is a bit more “fusion” and continental in style. Vegetarian options are available.
Address: 43 avenues Daumesnil
Explorando The Promenade Plantée: A Verdant Retreat
Once you’ve explored the Viaduc des Arts boutiques, workshops, and cafes, take one of the stairs down to the Paseo Maritimo. Stretching from the Place de la Bastille near the modern opera house to the Jardin de Reuilly , this kilometer-long walk is always a pleasant way to spend the morning or afternoon. For an even longer walk, you can continue on the same path to the huge park known as Bois de Vincennes, on the eastern border of Paris.
Dozens of varieties of trees, plants and shrubs are planted along the ‘green stream’, including cherry trees, linden trees, hazelnuts and bamboo. The promenade also offers views of interesting Parisian buildings, including some architectural details that cannot be seen from ground level (friezes, statues, stained glass, etc.)
During the summer, you can have a picnic and choose a stretch of green lawn in the Jardin de Reuilly. We recommend starting the walk near the Opera Bastille and strolling along the Promenade for about a mile to the “pelouses” lawn in the Reuilly garden.
Read here about how to pack and enjoy the perfect French-style picnic in Paris, stocking up on bread, fruit, and other essentials from great shops and bakeries nearby.
