If you are in North America and you don’t travel to Europe frequently, chances are you haven’t visited Piemonte or Piedmont. In fact, the US isn’t even on Piedmont’s visitor lists, 40% of whom are from neighboring Switzerland and 30% from Germany.
But food and wine lovers would be remiss to cross Piemonte off their “visit” list. Home to 45 different DOC wines, Piemonte is a wine lover’s paradise, producing Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbara and Dolcetto, as well as the celebratory favorite Asti Spumanti.
Wine is so important in Piemonte, in the small town of Barbaresco that you can go to church to buy it. Yes, wine takes on a kind of spiritual glow in Piemonte.
Piemonte grapes and herbs
The mountainous region bordering France and Switzerland (see a map of the Italian regions) is ideal for dry growing most grapes, which are deep-rooted enough to withstand periods of dry weather. This attention to the environment and naturally produced items also extends to food; Piemonte has said “no” to genetically modified organisms. But the delicacies that Piedmontese say ‘yes’ are even more important: the white truffle from Alba, a huge variety of artisan cheeses and cold meats, as well as a wide variety of herbal products are part of the Piemonte table.
“Piemonte is the best in the world for its herbal products,” according to chef Marina Ramasso, who uses them generously in her traditional cuisine at Osteria del Paluch, not far from the Temple of Superga overlooking Torino (Via Superga 44 at Baddissero Torinese Tel. 011 /940.87.50) Your kitchen is open to a view of the patio and garden, and includes a wood burning stove and oven in addition to the modern gas stove. This link to the past is not just for show: Ms. Ramasso collects cookbooks and diaries from the 19th century and allows them to guide her traditional cooking.
Piemonte – Your kitchen is not stuck in traditional mode
But Piedmont food isn’t just about staying close to tradition. Davide Scabin at Combal.Zero is considered a food designer, reverse-engineering traditional foods to amaze the senses and create an atmosphere of unusual fun in a Michelin-starred restaurant. Liquid pizza with beer? Cybereggs? A clear plastic bag called Harry Potter, containing four regional specialties packaged as candy wrapped in bright colors; Do you choose the order of consumption by color? Yes, they were all part of Sabin’s creative 16-course menu when we visited.
Leave your preconceptions about great food and great restaurants at the door: Combal. Zero is about having fun and thinking differently about what you put in your mouth and how. (Combal.Zero (review), Piazza Fafalda di Savoia – Rivoli. Tel. 001.95.65.222, closed Monday and Tuesday)
For traditionalists, of course, good food abounds in Piemonte. there is the famous white truffle from Alba, considered the best in the world. You will find them available from September to January. Other seasons produce the Black Winter Truffle and the Black Summer Truffle, winter being the tastiest.
And a humble icon of traditional Piedmontese cuisine are those thin breadsticks called grissini.
Did you know that you can hunt truffles yourself? Go to «La Casa del Trifulau (House of the truffle hunters) in the small Costigliole d’Asti and they will explain the truffle hunting, they will serve you a» merenda «(a snack between lunch and dinner) consisting of cheese drizzled with olive oil and topped with seasonal truffle chips, as well as some sliced hot dogs and bread, then you’ll go out with the dogs Diana and Berta to hunt yours. It is very easy, the dogs do all the work.
(The House of Trifulau in Frazione Burio 1 in Costigliole d’Asti. Tel. 347 2991832)
If truffle hunting doesn’t appeal to you but eating them, please get a reservation at Tra Arte y Querce where you can get what I call a Breakfast of Champions with freshly hunted truffles.
When to visit Piemonte
The high season in Piemonte is from October to December. Truffles and wine harvest are the reasons. How much bigger is fall than other seasons? Well, the percentage of restaurants that are full in the fall is between 25 and 30 percent, compared to less than five percent for the summer. The wine city of Barolo is beautiful in autumn.
May is also a great time to go, especially if you like food served with the fresh flowers and herbs Piedmont is famous for.
May is a wonderful time for wildflowers, spring rains and the sprouting of fresh Piedmont herbs. But again, almost any time is a good time to visit Piemonte.
Recommended places to stay
We enjoyed our stay at Torre Barolo, which offers fantastic views of the wine town of Barolo from its rooftop terrace. However, there are a lot of stairs to climb, so keep that in mind; It is a renovated 17th century tower after all!
For good country cooking (and a fantastic breakfast from Marla, a pastry chef) in an off-the-beaten-path valley in Piemonte, try Bella Baita Bed and Breakfast. Marla and Fabrizio work with all local producers to bring you the best local and traditional foods. They will even teach you how to cook it!
Since all of this great food and wine is scattered throughout the attractive wine-growing landscape, we suggest renting a vacation rental near Asti. There are many available on HomeAway, see Asti Vacation Rentals (direct book).
Piemonte Map
For an overview of Piemonte, see the Piemonte Map of Italy.
