The 17th arrondissement (arrondissement) of Paris is a quiet residential area in the northwest corner of the city that has been largely overlooked by tourists, but is increasingly popular with locals. As families and young artists have been excluded from the more central neighborhoods, the quiet and leafy 17 attracts a new generation to the area, resulting in the opening of restaurants and bars, a new nightlife scene and areas nice for walks and picnics.
However, not everything is a dream: as a whole, this is a district of contrasts. The “gate” to 17 is the old Place de Clichy, a metropolitan entrance plaza number eighteen that is bustling and noisy, in contrast to the laid-back “Batignolles” neighborhood to the northwest, full of quiet squares, markets, and quiet residential streets.
How to get there and how to move:
If you don’t mind a short walk, get off at Metro Place de Clichy or Blanche (Line 2) and walk to Boulevard des Batignolles, before exploring the surrounding streets to get a full picture of the area.
See a map of District 17.
Main attractions in the area:
- Place de Clichy – Close to Pigalle and the famous Moulin Rouge, this huge Haussmannian square still retains some of the grandeur of 19th-century Paris. While a large movie theater, numerous chain restaurants, and other 21st-century fixtures have taken away some of its old-world charm, Clichy still provides visitors with a distinctive sense of excitement, and sometimes seedy energy, which enlivened the area during the «Belle Epoque« – the decades around the turn of the 20th century.
- The Batignolles Neighborhood – Former grounds of 19th century artists and writers including Emile Zola and Edouard Manet, this leafy neighborhood fell out of favor in the 20th century but is enjoying a remarkable renaissance right now. New trendy restaurants, shops, bars and cultural centers are opening steadily, including along the main streets such as Rue Legendre, Boulevard des Batignolles and Rue des Dames . Trendy young Parisians, bored of the crowded and expensive Marais and Bastille and finding art centers like Belleville a little too dirty at times, are finding the laid-back atmosphere and laid-back charm of 17th to be a new robbery card. The neighborhood is also home to beautiful parks and squares, including the eponymous Square des Batignolles . On weekends, a local organic food market on nearby Boulevard des Batignolles makes the area feel like the town it was until very recently, when it was annexed to Paris.
- Parc Monceau: going further west and closer to the area around the Champs Elysees, this impressive park is one of the most beautiful and regal in Paris. Steeped in history, the romantic-style park was created by Philippe d’Orleans, Louis XVI’s cousin. It has an informal and extensive design, the gardens, however, are of remarkable beauty, particularly in the spring. Statues of famous French figures, including the writers Chateaubriand and Guy de Maupassant and the musician Frederic Chopin, adorn the gardens ( Metro : Courcelles; the main entrance to the park is on Boulevard de Courcelles).
Bars, restaurants and nightlife in the 17
The nightlife scene is evolving at a rapid rate in the area, so please note that while the details were correct at the time this article was published / updated, they can change at any time.
- For pre-dinner drinks or an aperitif , places we like at 17 include The Popular Caves (22 rue des Dames; great for well-mixed cocktails and a good selection of wines), and right next door, Le Comptoir des Batignolles (20 rue des Dames) – Offers a balanced menu of draft beers, fine wines, and solid cocktails.
- For a laid-back bistro-style vibe and atmosphere , try Gaston (11 Rue Brochant, Metro Brochant). Serving traditional brasserie dishes like beef terrines, pork filet mignon, and whole roast chicken with roasted vegetables, the desserts here are famous for being especially delicious, and the wine list is highly respectable.
- For a more avant-garde gastronomic meal on the 17th , visit Coretta , a restaurant praised by local foodies and regularly cited as a model for Paris’s new French food scene. Focusing on fresh local ingredients and creative flavors, the dishes here are simple yet innovative with an unusual focus on vegetables, and the service is remarkably friendly. ( 151 bis rue Cardinet, Metro: Brochant)
