LivingTravelIn review: Chez Gladines, an inexpensive French Basque restaurant

In review: Chez Gladines, an inexpensive French Basque restaurant

Over the years, Chez Gladines has become something of a brand among Parisian bohos and low-income students. It has been recommended to me countless times as one of the best places in Paris to enjoy cheap, simple and satisfying Basque flair, and I have also been praised for its laid back and upbeat vibe, handling both hip and old world. charm.

Read related: Best Cheap French Restaurants in Paris

Eager to judge for myself, I accompanied a friend who had already happily dined here and came away convinced. Gladines offers everything from huge mixed salads served in giant metal bowls for next to nothing to hearty Basque dishes presented simply.

Pros:

  • Hearty, authentic Basque-French and Southwestern dishes
  • Generous portions at reasonable prices
  • Coexistence vibe, somewhere between old-school Paris and hip

Cons:

  • Reservations not accepted
  • No credit cards
  • Not particularly intimate – maybe avoid romantic têtes-à-têtes

Practical information:

  • Address: 30 Rue des Cinq Diamants, 13th arrondissement
  • Tel.: 33 (0) 1 45 80 70 10
  • Metro: Place d’Italie or Corvisart
  • Bus: line 62
  • Hours: Monday to Tuesday, from 12 pm to 3 pm and from 7 pm to 12 am Wednesday-Saturday 12 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to 1 am; Sat. 12 pm-4pm and 7 pm-1am; Sun 12 pm-4pm
  • Cuisine: French Basque and Southwest (regional). Giant mixed salads, Basque-style chicken (recommended), cassoulet, potatoes with ham and cantal cheese, and piperade (Basque-style egg scramble with vegetables) are among the house specialties.
  • Drinks: wine list; beer and cider
  • Price range: approx. 10-15 euros per person for the full menu (starter, main course, dessert, wine)
  • Crowd: Bohos, students, neighborhood regulars.
  • Reservations: not accepted. Make sure to get there early (around 7pm) to avoid waiting outside with the crowds. This is a highly regarded restaurant and the crowds are constant.

The environment and how to get there

Located in the heart of the picturesque Butte aux Cailles district of Paris, famous for its village charm and art nouveau houses, Chez Gladines is located on Rue des Cinq Diamants, a narrow street lined with bars, restaurants and ‘cafes conceptual always full «. Small mostly pedestrianized streets, handicraft shops, and hidden corners make it easy to forget you’re in a big metropolis.

See related: photos of the Butte aux Cailles and its village charms

Knowing that a crowd will soon line up around the block, my partner and I arrived early, managing to easily secure a table. However, the place is already full, and the friendly waiter asks us to share a table with two other people. This may be irritating in other circumstances, but Gladines’s easy-going, friendly atmosphere is contagious, and we’re soon chatting with our table neighbors about the menu. I can hardly believe I am in Paris, where chatting with strangers is a rare event.

The environment

The restaurant is decorated with traditional Basque icons, including the Basque flag and the ubiquitous cone-nosed bonhomme , which curiously resembles Pinocchio. Then there’s the big mirror on the back wall with yellow posters and postcards of indie-rock artists and performance artists. Juxtaposed with the kitschy plaid tablecloths and carnations on the table, the effect is an eclectic mix of urban hipster and cheerful, old-fashioned Parisian working class.

The gastronomic experience

Our friendly and helpful waitress is soon to make suggestions and answer our questions about the menu. She is passionate about Basque and Southwestern cuisine and happily translates some of the more cryptic items on the menu.

The fare

Less than hungry and in awe of the copious, almost North American portions served around the restaurant, my friend and I decided to order a main course and drinks, thinking we’ll see dessert later, if we still have room, that is.

My friend opts for a more succulent fillet of beef prepared in the Basque style (11.60 euros) , with ham, creamy sauce and layers of thin and gratin potatoes that have been fried in duck fat, giving them a distinctive touch. Typical taste of southwestern French cuisine. An Iowa native, my partner notes that the dish is reassuringly reminiscent of Midwestern cuisine: no-nonsense, simple, and delicious.

I follow the advice of the waitress and order chipiron biscaina : whole squid in a ratatouille sauce served with house potatoes (10.50 euros). I’m surprised to see that it comes served as a stew, in something like a small pot, and that the potatoes are in the stew, rather than served as a garnish. Somewhat apprehensive, especially since the calamari are whole and resemble small octopuses, I am finally attracted to the strange dish, whose textures are strange at first and progressively grow on you.

The waitress brings me a traditional Basque spice, a spiletto, and advises me to sprinkle it on my squid . The spicy note really brings out the flavors and textures of this surprising dish, somewhere between Provence and Spanish coastal cuisine.

Read related: The best crepes and creperies in Paris

Dessert, drinks and my bottom line

As it is a warm April day, we opted for a bottle of brut cider to accompany our meal (9.50 euros), bearing in mind that Gladines is also a wine bar, specializing in varieties from the Southwest. Maybe not a traditional option, the crunchy, slightly sweet and slightly tart cider somehow works well with our food.

Unsurprisingly, the ample portions have left us little room for dessert, so we settled for sharing a caramel with cream : a typical French custard with caramel sauce that resembles Mexican flan. Cold and creamy, but relatively light, the simple dessert is a nice finishing touch to our meal. At just 2.60 euros, this is a dessert option that also fits on a tight budget.

My bottom line?

Chez Gladines lives up to its reputation as one of the best budget restaurants in Paris. If you are looking for delicious regional French dishes served simply in generous portions, Chez Gladines is for you. Give this restaurant a try to get a taste of how warm Paris can be – here, tired cliches of Parisian snobbery and stiffness simply have no place. Loud and friendly, this is a place where impromptu conversations with the locals are likely. On the other hand, if you are looking for an intimate corner for a romantic dinner, are a strict vegetarian, or avoid crowded tables, the restaurant can get in the way of your style.

Please note that while prices and menu items were correct at the time this restaurant was reviewed, they are subject to change at any time.

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