For romantics, no visit to the city of lights would be complete without a night at the original Moulin Rouge cabaret in Paris. Built in 1889, the club was the essence of a bohemian, Belle Epoque Paris, where artists converged to produce and attend colorful and avant-garde performances. The Moulin Rouge in Paris has inspired dozens of Hollywood tributes, the most recent being director Baz Luhrman’s 2001 festival starring Nicole Kidman. It also served as an inspiration for the 19th-century painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, whose iconic portraits of Moulin Rouge artists are housed today in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.
Spectacular display… Or boring cliché?
Despite its glamorous past, the current offering at The Moulin Rouge is often dismissed as a mediocre, mass-produced affair, with a flashy, artificial performance that doesn’t justify the overpriced entrance fee. But when three of my guests expressed interest in the show, curiosity got the best of me. Without further ado, these are some of the pros and cons of an evening at the cabaret.
Pros :
- Spacious and luxurious place that evokes the Paris of the turn of the century
- Talented artists
- Authentic cabaret feel
Cons:
- Long lines, despite the reservation
- Too touristy
- Nudity can be offensive to some
Book and settle in
When I called on the phone to make a reservation for the program two days in advance, I was told that the program is fully booked that weekend – a surprise given that we are in the low season (December). The friendly receptionist advises me to try again on show day as cancellations are apparently frequent. On your advice, we secured a table for the Friday night show (no dinner) at 11pm. We arrived, as suggested, half an hour early and I momentarily regret the decision. The mile-long queue on the wet and windy boulevard shows no signs of movement and the demographic is mostly weary tourists.
However, half an hour later, they escort us to our table and instantly transport me to bohemian Paris of the late 19th century. Lavish decor and subdued lighting create a decadent atmosphere and much of the romance is still present in the club. Toulouse Lautrec may have a hard time recognizing it, but we’re suitably impressed and drink our champagne, which is part of the deal (two bottles for four).
Read related: Top Traditional Cabarets in Paris
The show begins
The show begins with a spectacular fanfare. The girls are dressed in small beaded suits while the boys wear silver suits. The scene is dramatic and aesthetically aggressive, but not for the prudes: the initial semi-nudity of the dancers sets the tone for the entire show. Although the score is indefinable “European” in nature, the lyrics of the music are in French.
Dance acts are the main feature of the Moulin Rouge, but the circus element soon rears its head as we are entertained by some pretty dazzling stunts. The performers’ movements are impressive, but we noticed a weariness in some of the actions, probably as a result of the three-show-a-day schedule. The dancers look tired too, but only to my theater partner’s trained eye.
The circus stunts continue with the presence of clowns, jugglers, and a talented ventriloquist, who manages to cheer up an otherwise moderate (and travel-weary) audience. Pick four participants of different nationality from the crowd, who seemed rehearsed but seemingly spontaneous.
The impeccable choreography spans various periods in history, transporting us through the Mayans to the Egyptians to the 1940s, complete with swing dancers, all presented in a vibrant display of colorful costumes and upbeat music. However, we have to wait until near the end of the show for the traditional French cancan, where the high kicks are immersed in a tricolor sea.
The show achieves some spectacular moments. Around the middle, the stage gives way to a water tank, where a female artist swims with snakes. And the larger-than-life ending is distinguished by the furry pink outfits.
Practical information: location, contacts and how to book
- Address: 82 boulevard de Clichy, 18th district
- Tel.: +33 (0) 153.098.282
- Metro: Blanche (line 2)
- Reservations: highly recommended, especially during peak season when seats sell out quickly. You can also book a basic dinner and show package here: (book directly through Isango). For an all-inclusive package that includes a dinner and show at the MR with a tour of the Eiffel Tower.
- Ticket prices: check current prices and reserve seats here
- Dinner menu: French Cancan Menu; Toulouse-Lautrec Menu; Belle Époque Menu; Lunch menu (vegetarian options available). To see current menu prices, visit this page on the official website.
- Dress Code : Neat, semi-formal to formal dress required (sneakers, T-shirts and jeans, shorts, etc. are not allowed)
- Payment options: cash and all major credit cards are accepted
- Visit the official website (in English)
- Others: photography, smoking, drinks and food bought off-site are prohibited
My final word
Clichés abound in the current Moulin Rouge show and some may find it outdated at best and offensive at worst. However, to be fair, it is never intended to be anything other than a flamboyant return to the original Moulin Rouge cabaret. For a more avant-garde cabaret, you can try the Lido based on the Champs Elysees, a favorite among Parisians. As a skeptic, I found the Moulin eye-catching, kitsch, and very tourist-oriented, but it was still a very enjoyable and worthwhile evening. If you are not put off by long lines and tourist fare, the Moulin Rouge is a unique and unforgettable experience.
