Koh Phi Phi is a small island compared to Phuket and Koh Lanta, the two closest neighbors on the west coast, but its reputation is known all over the world. An audible gasp followed by excited murmurs can often be heard on the ferry during the approach to Koh Phi Phi.
Newbies gawk a second time when greeted by the ugly crowded tourist circus along the main road in Ton Sai. Fortunately, it is not representative of the entire island.
Backpackers know Koh Phi Phi as a place to socialize between full moon parties. Beer pong games start early, and drinks on the beach are late. Tourists come to enjoy the scenery, possibly one of the best island backgrounds in the world. Both take full advantage of inexpensive diving and the abundant underwater life in the marine national park.
Adorned with impressive limestone cliffs so characteristic of Krabi province, Koh Phi Phi Don has an unusual, almost skeletal shape. A very narrow strip of sand connects two asymmetrical pieces of island and serves as the epicenter of action. At points along the main trail you can see blue water on both sides.
Although visually confirming that you are surrounded by the Andaman Sea is exciting, the thin link in the middle is the reason why Koh Phi Phi was completely demolished in the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.
Which island of Phi Phi?
When travelers say “Koh Phi Phi”, they always mean Koh Phi Phi Don, the larger of the two known islands in the marine park.
Koh Phi Phi Leh, the smaller island a bit to the south, is uninhabited, but can be visited on excursions. The impressive setting was made famous in 2000 by “The Beach,” the film adaptation of Alex Garland’s 1996 novel of the same name.
How to pronounce Koh Phi Phi
The correct pronunciation of Koh Phi Phi generates a giggle or two among the English-speaking children who visit there. In Thai, ph is pronounced with silent h (for example, Phuket is pronounced “poo-ket”). Without helping things, the word koh (island) is pronounced deeper in the throat, more like “goh.”
- Wrong but often heard: “ko fee fee” and “ko fee fye”
- Correct: “goh pee”
The name actually comes from api (pronounced “ah-pee”), the Malay word for fire.
How to get to Koh Phi Phi
The starting point for Koh Phi Phi is Krabi Town, a small town on the west coast of Thailand that serves as a hub for tourists heading to Ao Nang, Railay, and other islands in the Andaman.
Koh Phi Phi is too small for an airport, however you can fly to Krabi Town (KBV) or Phuket (HKT) and then take the boat transport to the island. Phuket is the more expensive of the two options.
Ferries depart daily from Krabi Town, Phuket, Koh Lanta, Railay and Ao Nang. Hours change according to the time of year; You should ask a travel agency or reservation office about the options. Fewer boats brave the waves during the low season / stormy months between June and October.
When to visit Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi’s dry season runs from December to April, with the driest and peak months being January and February.
Koh Phi Phi receives heavy rain and thunderstorms during the monsoon season, especially in July and August, but people keep coming. The island doesn’t actually close and go up like much of neighboring Koh Lanta does for the off-season.
Tip: Koh Phangan’s full moon party on the other side of Thailand definitely affects the flow of travelers to Koh Phi Phi. You will have much more peace on the island during the week of the big party, but be careful: as soon as it is over, many joyful head to Koh Phi Phi to continue! Retreat to nearby Koh Lanta if you’re not in the mood.
Where to stay on the island
Beaches and bays are scattered and hidden all over the island. Some are the very definition of a perfectly clichéd paradise that all travelers hope to find. Others are polluted by the endless noise of a DJ mix.
During the reconstruction that followed the 2004 tsunami, opportunists took over and squeezed many of the bungalow operations out of the budget. Today, there’s an uncomfortable mix of luxury resorts, rickety dorm rooms for hostel parties, and some mid-range guesthouses.
Centrally located on the narrow part of the island, Loh Dalum is the nightlife beach. Stay as far away from here as possible unless the main missions of your trip are fire shows and late-night revelries. Backpackers looking for cheaper hostels and accommodations do better by walking east (to the right) after getting off the ferry. Unsurprisingly, accommodation options get cheaper the further from the beach and the more uphill it gets.
Laem Tong Beach, on the island’s northeast tip, is probably one of the more serene options, though it’s also a far cry from Ton Sai Bay’s abundance of food and nightlife options. Hotels there are relatively expensive for the island.
Looking southwest, Long Beach is a popular stretch of dusty sand with a great location, but getting there requires a bit of a scramble or a fast boat ride.
Unfortunately, many of the most idyllic beaches are packed with anchored long-tail boats, the only transportation option to access those sectors of paradise.
Move
Fortunately, Koh Phi Phi is one of the few places in Thailand where tuk-tuks and taxis are not offered. Motorized transport is practically non-existent. The police or construction contractors use the handful of scooters on the island. Unfortunately, less traffic on the streets means more traffic on the water. Noisy long-tail boats transport travelers between different parts of the island.
Plan to walk a lot while exploring the island. Boats can be rented by the day or as needed for individual trips. Prices vary according to distance and time of day.
Things to do
In addition to having fun and enjoying fireworks shows, of which there are many, visitors to Koh Phi Phi come to take advantage of the turquoise Andaman Sea. Diving and snorkeling opportunities abound. The many dive shops around the island can organize PADI or snorkeling courses.
Along with water sports, there is a limited amount of rock climbing on the island, though you should probably head to nearby Railay if you’re looking for something serious.
Climbing the steep stairs to the viewpoint is a rite of passage on Koh Phi Phi. Go up at night to enjoy photogenic views of the island. Drinks and snacks are available at the top.
Eating
Koh Phi Phi is not an island known for its culinary grandeur, but good Thai food is easy to find. Eating favorites from home is another story. As with all tourist islands, restaurants try to produce western cuisine; success ranges from impressive to inedible.
Papaya (the restaurant, not the fruit) is an old favorite of budget travelers to the islands. Open for dinner only, Papaya can be busy with savvy people looking for cheap and delicious food.
The bamboo-clad “Restaurant Knock Out” run by Mr. Chet is a lively option for good food and a good atmosphere.
Tip: Portion sizes on menus are unpredictable – some offerings are solo servings, but many are “family size” and shared between a table. Items on menus listed as “on rice” generally mean that they will satisfy one person. If the rice costs more, and the dish you’re ordering seems more expensive than it should be, it’s probably meant to be shared, the default Thai way of eating.
What Brig
Being a small island, shopping on Koh Phi Phi is limited to a handful of convenience stores and stalls selling sunglasses, T-shirts, beach sarongs, and souvenirs.
Prices for items like sunscreen will always be higher than on the mainland, and there will be fewer options. Bring the usual beach survival items with you; save the actual shopping from Chiang Mai or Bangkok.
There are plenty of ATMs on the island, but bring some backup cash in case the network runs into trouble.
Stay safe
Koh Phi Phi is as safe as the other islands in Thailand, although there will inevitably be more drunk people roaming the streets at night.
Travelers of both sexes should watch their drinks; occasionally drugs are produced.
A small hospital on the island can handle minor ailments, however it is best to go to Phuket or return to Krabi to have something serious diagnosed and treated.