Matera is an interesting city in the Basilicata region of southern Italy, known for its picturesque sassi districts, a large ravine divided into two parts with cave dwellings and cave churches carved out of the smooth limestone. The Sassi date back to prehistoric times and were used as housing until the 1950s, when the residents, who lived mainly in poverty, were relocated.
Today the Sassi districts are a fascinating sight that can be seen from above and explored on foot. There are several cave churches open to the public, a reproduction of a typical cave house that you can visit, and restored caves converted into hotels and restaurants. The Sassi districts are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Due to its similarity to Jerusalem, several films have been filmed at the sassi, including Mel Gibson’s, The Passion of the Christ . The city of Matera has been chosen to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019 and is one of the recommended places to visit in Italy.
The more ‘modern’ city, dating from the 13th century, is also pleasant and has several interesting churches, museums, large public squares and a walking area with cafes and restaurants.
Where to stay in Matera
Staying in one of the cave hotels in the sassi is a unique experience. I stayed at the Hotel Locanda di San Martino and Thermae, an old church and cave dwellings converted into a nice hotel with an unusual thermal pool. If you want to stay above sassi, I recommend Albergo Italia . When I was there many years ago, my room had a fantastic view over the sassi.
Matera Highlights – What to See and Do
- Sassi : The sassi district is the main attraction in Matera. You will find vantage points to contemplate the sassi in the upper part of the city, near Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Piazza Sedile, and the nearby stairs that lead to the sassi. Walk through the cave houses to the Church of San Pietro Caveoso, at the foot of the Sassi district. It is also possible to drive to San Pietro. From the church, there are good views of the sassi above, the canyon and stream below, and the caves across the ravine.
- Cave churches : monks settled in these caves as early as the 7th century. You can visit several of the ancient cave churches (admission charges apply) but they have fairly limited visiting hours. In some of them, you can see interesting frescoes that are centuries old.
- Guided Tours : For those who would like a guided tour of Sassi, the half or full day excursion to Cave World of Matera can be booked through Select Italy. Or take a guided Basilicata wine day tour including 2 wineries, a visit to Venosa to see its castle and Jewish catacombs, lunch at a farm, and the castle in Melfi. For a private guide, we recommend Dr. Cosimo Rondinone, a local who speaks perfect English. Contact him by phone at +39 327 6192580.
- Cathedral: The 13th century Romanesque cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria della Bruna. The interior is decorated mainly in the 18th century Baroque style, but a Byzantine fresco from the last judgment of the 14th century has been found. It is worth visiting in early July for the Madonna Bruna Festival, one of the best festivals I’ve been to in Italy, culminating in a spectacular fireworks display over the sassi.
- Historic Center : Piazza Vittorio Veneto is a lively and lively square with several churches and cafes and Roman remains. The fountain in the square has a display of colored lights at night. A bit far from the square, the church of San Giovanni Battista is a good example of the Romanesque style and its interior still retains Romanesque features. Via del Corso is a main shopping street that connects the square with Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Sedile, where you can visit the Auditorio del Sedile. Several other interesting churches are scattered around the city.
- Museums : Museums to visit include a museum of peasant culture, the Domenico Ridola National Museum of Archeology, and the Palazzo Lanfranchi museum of modern art.
How to get to Matera
Matera is a bit out of the way so it can be difficult to reach. The city is served by a private railway line, Ferrovie Appulo Lucane every day, except Sundays and holidays. To get to Matera, take a train to Bari on the national train line, exit the station and turn around the corner to the smaller Ferrovie Appulo Lucane station, where you can buy a ticket and take a train to Matera . The train takes about 1 1/2 hour. From Matera station, you can take a bus line Sassi to the Sassi area or it is about a 20 minute walk.
Matera can be reached by bus from the nearby cities of Basilicata and Puglia. There are some buses from major cities in Italy, such as Bari, Taranto, Rome, Ancona, Florence, and even Milan.
If driving, the closest autostrada is the A14 between Bologna and Taranto, exit at Bari Nord. Coming from the west coast on the A3, follow the route to Potenza via Basilicata to Matera. There are parking lots and some free parking lots in the modern area of the city.
The closest airport is Bari. Shuttle buses connect Matera to the airport.
