Occupying a series of five World War I Zeppelin aircraft hangars, Riga’s Central Market covers a wide space and is the largest market in Europe. More than 3,000 vendors sell an impressive array of fresh local produce, and the stalls are neatly divided into separate hangars selling meat, fish, dairy, and vegetables. Here’s our pick of the best things to eat and buy as you explore one of the must-see places in Riga.
The market is conveniently located: it is close to the edge of the Daugava River, close to Riga’s main train and bus stations, and close to the city’s Spikeri cultural district and the Holocaust museum. It is also about a 15-minute walk from Riga’s beautiful Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Pickles And Sauerkraut
There is a Zeppelin hangar full of stalls selling fruits and vegetables and a large selection of pickles. Street vendors let you help yourself to lots of crunchy sauerkraut, and you’ll find all manner of produce, including carrots, tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms, green beans, cauliflower, and cucumbers with a variety of herbs and spices. Sauerkraut is a Latvian staple and is commonly used in side dishes, meatballs, and soups. You may see locals ordering a glass of sauerkraut juice, which is said to be packed with antioxidants and good for the digestive system.
Pelmeni meatballs
Although they may not have originated in Latvia, pelmeni are eaten all over Riga and are definitely worth trying. A cross between Polish pierogi and Italian tortellini, these little meatballs are made with unleavened dough and filled with minced meat, vegetables, or cheese. They can be served in a broth or fried and always come with a dollop of sour cream. Head to Pelmenu Sturitis, a small family-owned stall in the fruit and veg parlor, for a plate of made-to-order meatballs for around 3 euros. According to the locals, it is one of the best places to try these delicious hand-rolled treats.
Uzbek no bread
Latvia has close ties to Uzbekistan, and there are a number of Uzbek restaurants and cafes scattered around Riga. Follow your nose to the Uzbek bakery between the aisles selling vegetables and fish, and order a traditional, round flatbread that is not freshly baked. Be prepared to wait in line as these jumbo rolls are very popular. They are served plain or topped with sesame seeds or cheese and are a tasty and affordable snack for less than 2 euros each.
Smoked fish
You’ll see an incredible variety of fresh fish, shellfish, and smoked fish for sale at Riga’s Central Market, and some of the displays look like works of art. Smoked and salted fish is a big problem in Latvia, and you’ll see it on menus all over Riga. One of the country’s most beloved dishes is Liepaja menciņš, a comforting dish made from smoked cod, potatoes, onions, and cream. Pick up some local delicacies to try like smoked mackerel, pickled herring, and oil-smoked sprats.
Latvian cheese
In the dairy room, you can pick up all kinds of creamy treats delivered fresh from Latvian farms. Try some of the local kefir, a fermented milk drink that is popular across much of Eastern Europe for its broad gut health benefits. Most of the Latvian cheeses offered are mild in flavor and are often covered in herbs and spices. Try some of the Mednieku, a smoked cheese with an edible brown coating, and Monterigo, a Latvian version of Parmesan. You’ll see Biezpiens on every counter. This cottage cheese is served sweet or savory and sold in cubes to enjoy on rye bread and pancakes and served alongside boiled potatoes and pickled herring.
Rye bread
If you’re organizing a picnic to enjoy in one of Riga’s many beautiful parks (Bastejkalna, Esplanade Park, and Kronvalda Park are highlights), you’ll want to stock up on some tasty rye bread. The average Latvian is said to consume around 50 kg of rye bread per year and tradition dictates that if the bread is accidentally dropped, it should be picked up immediately and kissed. Rupjmaize (dark rye bread) is a dense bread that is served as an accompaniment to most meals along with herb-flavored butter. You will see a large selection of bread on sale at the market, including Saldskaaba corn (a delicious sourdough) and a variety of rye breads with all kinds of nuts and seeds.