Ventimiglia is a city in the northwestern part of the Italian Riviera on the west coast of Italy. It is the last city before the French border, 7 kilometers away. The modern city runs along the sea, while the old city is on a hill on the other side of the Red River. It is a less expensive and good alternative to other cities along the Italian Riviera like Sanremo.
Since Ventimiglia is located on the main railway line between Genoa and France, it is a good base for visiting the northwestern part of the Italian and Ligurian Riviera, the French Riviera, and dazzling Monte Carlo. Ventimiglia attractions include the archaeological site with remains of a Roman theater and baths, the medieval hill town, the great Friday cookout and flea market, Hanbury Gardens, prehistoric caves and of course the beach and the boardwalk.
Where to stay
We stayed at Suitehotel Kaly, on the promenade directly in front of the sea and a rocky beach where you can swim. From our balcony, the view of the sea and of Menton, France beyond was fabulous (be sure to book a sea view room).
It is a comfortable 3-star hotel close to several restaurants and bars by the sea. It is a short walk from the city center and the old town. Next to the sea, below the old town, is the 3-star Sole Mare hotel and restaurant. Up the hill in the old town is La Terrazza de ‘Pelargoni B&B.
The old town of Ventimiglia Alta
Perched on a hill across the river from the new town is the old medieval town called Ventimiglia Alta, surrounded by walls. This area is mainly pedestrianized as most of the old streets are too narrow for cars. There are parking lots under the sea and one up the hill near the cathedral, but the best way to get there is by walking from the modern city.
From the public park near the waterfront in the modern area, cross the river to enter the old town through one of the remaining gates in the wall and go up the hill towards the cathedral. Note the colorful houses and small corridors on either side of the main street.
Visit the Romanesque cathedral and the 11th century baptistery. Be sure to head downstairs when inside to visit the crypt and the remains of the ancient underground baptistery. The cathedral is built on the site of an ancient Lombard church on what may have been the site of a Roman temple.
As you make your way down the main street, be sure to stop for a glimpse of the fascinating Oratory of ‘Neri. Also in this part of the street there are several small shops and bars. At the top of the hill is the 10th-century Church of St. Michael the Archangel, built on the site of a pagan temple.
Roman archaeological sites
Roman remains at Ventimiglia include a Roman theater, buildings, tombs, and parts of the old city wall. The Roman theater is generally only open on weekends. Roman finds from the area, such as statues, tombstones, oil lamps, and ceramics, are housed in the Girolamo Rossi Archaeological Museum in Forte dell’Annunziata on Via Verdi.
Out of town – Hanbury Gardens and Balzi Rossi Prehistoric Caves
The extensive botanical gardens, the largest in Italy, surrounding Sir Thomas Hanbury’s ancient villa are built on a slope that extends almost to the sea. Hanbury Gardens are located just a few kilometers from the city, which can be reached by car, bus or taxi.
Remains of a Cro-Magnon family, fossils, stone tools, and other Palaeolithic artifacts were found in the Balzi Rossi caves. Some of the caves can also be visited. Balzi Rossi is 7 kilometers from Ventimiglia, just before the French border.
Places to visit nearby
Both the city of Sanremo, on the Italian Riviera, and the French city of Menton are a short train ride away. Other Italian coastal cities, Monaco and Nice (France) can also be reached by train. If you have a car, you can explore the interesting inland mountain towns and picturesque perched villages.
