A view of the glittering downtown Toronto skyline, from the ferry to Hanlan’s Point, part of the Toronto Islands, and the gay clothing-optional beach site. The tallest freestanding structure in the Western Hemisphere, the 1,815-foot-tall CN Tower stands guard over the horizon, right next to Rogers Center baseball stadium (fka the SkyDome).
Toronto, one of the great epicenters of gay and lesbian culture in the world, is the largest city in Canada: it is also a genuine center for fine arts, theater, fashion stores, sophisticated restaurants and hotels, and a diverse gay nightlife. In recent decades, a large influx of immigrants from around the world has helped give Toronto a vibrant international sensibility – many Toronto neighborhoods reflect this, as do areas as popular with gays as Church Street Village and Queen Street West. Here’s a guide to the best Toronto attractions, neighborhoods, and experiences for LGBT travelers.
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Exploring Toronto
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Church Street Gay Village, Toronto
At first glance, it looks like many other urban neighborhoods in North America, but look a little closer at the rainbow banners hanging from the streetlights, and you can spot that this stretch of Church Street (looking south from close from the Wellesley Street intersection) is one of the most famous gay districts in the world. Known as Wellesley Village Church, Church Street Village, or simply Gay Village, this strip of Church Street between roughly Bloor Street to the north and Gerrard Street to the south is lined with gay bars, restaurants, and shops. The gay scene actually spans one block west (to Yonge Street) and one block east to Jarvis Street, and you’ll find quite a few LGBT-oriented businesses along several of the cross streets, including Carlton, Maitland, Wellesley and the streets of Gloucester.
Toronto’s hugely popular and busy Gay Pride celebration takes place every summer at Wellesley Village Church, and on almost any warm day you’ll see plenty of lesbians, gays, and friends from the community hanging out in the courtyards of the many cafes. , lounges and restaurants in these parts that have them.
The Village has few accommodations (although there are few very attractive and cozy B & Bs, including Victoria’s Mansion, Chicago House, and Dundonald House among them), but the neighborhood is within a 10-20 minute walk of many downtown Toronto hotels, from the financial district to Bloor Street.
Church Wellesley Village has cultivated a gay scene for several decades, quietly before the early 1980s, but in a very conspicuous and official sense ever since. Fans of the American version of Queer As Folk will recognize him from many scenes on that television show, which although set in Pittsburgh was filmed right here in Toronto. As the dining and entertainment districts progress, the neighborhood is relatively stable – many of the same bars, shops, and restaurants have been going strong here for a decade or two. For veteran fans of the neighborhood and tourists looking for a reliably popular gay entertainment district, this is a good thing. If you’re more interested in up-and-coming, edgy neighborhoods with more eclectic vibes, you might want to explore some of Toronto’s trendiest and most co-ed gay / straight areas, such as West Queen West (and adjacent Ossington Avenue) and Leslieville.
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The Greek town of Danforth in Toronto
The Danforth, also known as Greektown, is one of Toronto’s most beloved ethnic food neighborhoods. It’s in the northeast of the city center, about 3 miles east of Gay Village (an easy and affordable cab ride), and it’s definitely worth venturing here for possibly the best strip of Greek restaurants in North America (the would put Astoria in Queens, New York). Just head almost anywhere in the 300 to 600 blocks of Danforth Avenue (around the intersection with Pape Avenue), and you will find one Greek restaurant after another, many of them serving fast food on the go, and others with a more upscale feel, Creative contemporary table service and food.
In the photo (on a persistently rainy spring night) is Messini Authentic Gyros, one of the cheapest places with simple and quick service and huge servings of lamb gyros, chicken souvlaki, Greek salads, and pita with amazing and wonderfully tzatziki of garlic. Other reliable options in the surrounding area include Mezes (which has a huge selection of delicious appetizers), Ouzeri, Pan on Danforth (more upscale and with some pretty creative dishes), and Panteon (especially for seafood).
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Museum of Contemporary Art of Canada (MOCCA), in the Queen Street West District
A highlight of the ever-attractive Queen Street West art and design district (it’s the part of the neighborhood to the west beyond Bathurst Street and nicknamed West Queen West), the provocative Museum of Contemporary Art Canada (MOCCA) (952 Queen St W, 416-395-0067) is set back from the street in a building he moved to in 2005. The museum contains an important permanent collection and also features rotating exhibits throughout the year. Shown here is a David LaChapelle mural, located in the museum courtyard and parking area, which was displayed throughout the Toronto Photography Festival for a year.
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West Queen West Art and Design District
The eclectic and artsy West Queen West Art & Design District is a part of Toronto where you’ll never be more than a few steps away from an avant-garde gallery, minimalist design store, fair trade café, or modern lounge. This neighborhood along West Queen Street in the city’s West End is also sometimes nicknamed Queer West Village, especially near the intersection with Gladstone Avenue, thanks to the pronounced LGBT presence. In this regard, West Queen West counters Church Street Gay Village, which is largely a traditional strip of gay clubs and shops and lacks the former’s style and age diversity, not to mention the determined pan-sexuality.
You’ll find a genuinely exciting mix of shopping, nightlife, and dining along West Queen West, which stretches for nearly 2 kilometers from Bathurst Street to Gladstone Avenue. Also visit Ossington Avenue, which runs north from West Queen Street to Dundas Street and contains a similar stretch of shops, bars and cafes, plus the acclaimed Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (MOCCA). Also be sure to visit leafy Trinity Bellwoods Park, a lovely place to have a coffee or savor food you’ve picked up at one of the many excellent restaurants in the area.
The queer presence around here is brightest along the blocks between Ossington and Gladstone: many of the businesses in this part of Queen Street West participate in the Queer West Arts and Culture Festival, which takes place in August. The popular Gladstone Hotel, with its 37 unique artist-designed rooms, is one of the most exciting accommodation options in town, and the on-site Gladstone Cafe and Melody Bar have a decidedly odd following. Nearby, The Beaver is another bar and restaurant with many GLBT adherents.
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Trinity Bellwoods Park
The majestic and meticulously landscaped Trinity Bellwoods Park is located in the heart of Toronto’s popular West Queen West art and design district, GLBT. Queen Street forms the southern boundary of the park, with Dundas Street forming the northern edge. Trails, park benches, a dog run and sports fields and tennis courts, and a recreation center are all components of this popular green space – it’s a great spot for a picnic on a warm day.
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Leslieville, Toronto
Located a few miles east of downtown Toronto’s financial district, and just east of the Don River Valley, the increasingly gentrified neighborhood of Leslieville has become increasingly fashionable for its offbeat shopping, cafes Affordable independent and friendly neighborhood bars – Much of the action is along Queen Street East, from roughly the railroad tracks (or Booth Avenue) for several blocks to Greenwood Avenue. In recent years, this area south of Greektown has also caught on with Toronto’s lesbians, hence the neighborhood’s fairly obvious nickname, “Lesbianville.” On the north-south streets that intersect with Queen Street, especially as you go north, you will find a number of restored houses, mostly small and medium-sized, the neighborhood was largely a working-class area,
You’ll find quite a few great restaurants along Queen Street East in Leslieville, including Sushi Marche, Chino Locos (Asian-Meet-Latin), fun Gio Rana’s Really Really Nice Restaurant, fresh breakfast and brunch favorite Lady Marmalade , and Swirl Wine Bar. There aren’t really any queer bars specifically in the neighborhood, but low-key nightspots like The Curzon, the cozy Roy Public House, and the posh What Are You Looking At Bar (cheesy name, a lot?) Draw plenty of Family.
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Passengers line up for the ferry at Hanlan’s Point on the way back to town
Ferries leave from downtown Toronto at the foot of Bay Street (next to the Westin Harbor Castle Hotel) year-round to Hanlan’s Point, the westernmost of the Toronto Islands and home to the official clothing optional beach (which, unofficially, it’s also Toronto’s de facto gay beach). The boat trip takes about 15 minutes, and the service is more frequent during the warmer months, but the boats leave the city as early as 9 am and return at 11:15 pm in summer. The round-trip fare is $ 7.50.
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Boardwalk access to Hanlan’s Point Gay – and Nude – Beach
Getting to Toronto’s world-famous gay beach, at Hanlan’s Point in the Toronto Islands, is quite simple, in fact, from the bustle of the downtown financial district (ferries leave from Queens Quay at the foot of Bay Street, right next to the Westin Harbor Castle Hotel), you’re just half an hour from this picturesque beach overlooking Lake Ontario, where nudity is officially allowed. Just keep in mind that sex in public is illegal, so don’t mistake Hanlan’s Point for an outdoor bathhouse. Also, while the beach here has a large gay following, it is welcoming of all types and is not specifically GLBT.
Once you’ve taken the 15-minute ferry from downtown to Hanlan’s Point, once you leave the ship, follow the paved road for about 10-15 minutes from the ferry dock. If it’s a sunny day, and especially a weekend, from spring to early fall, you won’t have a problem finding the gay beach – just follow the shirtless boys and bikini-clad girls in little suits. There are also some signs on the poles with arrows pointing the way to the ‘clothing optional beach’. Eventually, you will come to a meadow, at which point it is best to cut to the right of the paved path and walk into the low thicket of trees that marks the edge of the dunes behind the beach. A rather ingenious natural wood trellis or arch marks the official entrance to the boardwalk (pictured), which opens onto the beach.
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Hanlan’s Point Nude – and generally quite gay – Beach, in the Toronto Islands
Toronto’s gay beach at Hanlan’s Point on the scenic Toronto Islands overlooks tranquil Lake Ontario and draws sizable crowds on warm days. This is one of the most popular and famous clothing optional beaches in North America, and without a doubt one of the best gay beaches in Canada. Hanlan’s Point has no significant amenities; however, a paved trail leads to Center Island, with its many entertainment venues, restaurants, and bars, and additional ferry service back into town.
If you are used to ocean beaches, you might find it a bit strange to observe the only obvious feature of this beach, which borders Lake Ontario: it is not tidal and the swell is minimal. In fact, it is a bit dirty where the water meets the sand. The beach itself, however, smooth, clean and well-kept, is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. And while clothing is optional, you won’t be alone if you choose to keep your suit. Overall, only about half of Hanlan’s Point beach visitors are left with nothing.
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Center Island, the most touristic of the Toronto Islands
The busiest and most touristic island of the Toronto Islands is Center Island, from and to the archipelago’s largest ferry operates from spring to fall (there is no winter service to Center Island). While adjacent Hanlan’s Point has a perceptible gay scene, thanks to that island’s clothing-optional beach, Center Island is decidedly dominant, straight, and traditional, primarily the domain of families. However, here you will find many restaurants and entertainment. And a really fun way to experience the Toronto Islands is to take the ferry from downtown Toronto to Center Island and return via the Hanlan’s Point ferry, or vice versa (all ferries to and from the Toronto Islands come and go from the foot of Bay Street, next to the Westin Hotel, in downtown Toronto).
A paved walkway leads from Centre Island (over a bridge) clear over to Hanlan’s Point. From ferry drop-off at Centre Island to the clothing-optional (gay) beach at Hanlan’s Point, it’s a good 30- to 60-minute walk, depending on how quickly you walk. Pictured here is a meadow, looking north from Centre Island – you can see the 1,815-foot CN Tower rising over downtown Toronto in the center of the photo.
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Glad Day Bookshop, the Venerable GLBT Bookstore in the Gay Village
Considered the oldest gay bookstore in North America, the venerable Glad Day Bookstore at 598 Yonge Street (416-961-4161) in Gay Village opened in 1969. It’s a shopping highlight for all book lovers, but especially if you’re trying to find lesser-known titles on queer literature and history: the store also does a strong mail-order business. Unfortunately, sales have been slow on Glad Day in recent years, and there is talk that the store may close if the numbers do not improve significantly. With so many LGBT bookstores closed in recent years, it would be a shame to lose this literary legend – here’s hoping business improves.
