Walking through Gunung Gede Pangrango National Park should be a rite of passage for any eco-tourist visiting West Java in Indonesia for the first time.
Gunung Gede Pangrango Park is a patch of rainforest that surrounds the twin dormant volcanoes that give the park its name (Monte Gede and Monte Pangrango ): nearly 22,000 hectares of mountainous rainforest cover that supports a variety of rare plant species and animals, while providing the Indonesian capital Jakarta with most of its water supply.
Starting at the Cibodas Visitor Center at an elevation of 3,200 feet above sea level, hikers can proceed along a cobblestone trail that winds alongside the Twin Peaks, reaching numerous landmarks along the way – an unreal lake of blue color, a rather run-down boardwalk encompassing the Gayonggong Swamp, a triple waterfall, and ultimately the peak of Mount Pangrango at 9,900 feet above sea level.
Entering Gunung Gede Pangrango National Park
The Cibodas Gate in Cianjur (location on Google Maps) is the site of the park headquarters and visitor center, and therefore is the main entrance for most visitors to Gunung Gede Pangrango.
The easiest Gunung Gede Pangrango Park experience will take around four to five hours (round trip), walking 1.7 miles along the cobblestone path from the Cibodas gateway to the Cibeureum triple waterfalls , at an elevation of 5,300 feet above the sea level.
At the Cibodas front door, you will pay the weekend fee of IDR 27,500 (about $ 3), or the Monday-Friday fee of IDR 22,500 (about $ 1.70), to gain entry.
The cobblestone walkway is easy to navigate, but can get quite strenuous for novice hikers as the hours go by. Signs describing the local flora and fauna line the trail, but all are in Bahasa Indonesia, and nearly unreadable given the vandalism inflicted by passing hikers.
The unchanging rainforest gives way to a few key spots as you climb:
Telaga Biru (location on Google Maps) is a blue lake located one mile from the entrance gate of Cibodas. The lake is approximately 5,100 feet above sea level. The lake is approximately five hectares in area and comes in an unearthly blue color thanks to the algae that floats on the water. The color is really variable; Depending on the algae growth cycle, the lake may appear green or even red.
Just beyond Telaga Biru, visitors will encounter a sudden opening in the forest canopy, marking the edge of the Gayonggong Swamp (location on Google Maps), a swampy reservoir that holds back water flowing from higher ground.
The bog grasses that predominate in the bog are a favorite hunting ground for the Javanese leopard ( Welding Panthera pardus ). Javanese leopards are nocturnal, so unless you cross the swamp at night, you have nothing to fear.
From the swamp to the falls
Visitors cross the swamp by crossing a footbridge that is frankly in very bad shape. Part of the walkway is made of false logs made of concrete, which withstand the elements quite well; the rest is made of wooden boards, which are in constant danger of crumbling.
The clearing provided by the swamp offers visitors their first glimpse of Mount Pangrango, which rises, its peak often lost in the clouds.
Finally, visitors arrive at the 160-foot-tall Cibeureum Falls (location on Google Maps), which is actually made up of three waterfalls that converge at this location: Cikundul Falls, Cidenden Falls, and Cibeureum Falls. Much of the water that comes from these falls eventually ends up as part of Jakarta’s water supply.
The word cibeureum (in Indonesian, “c” is pronounced “ch”) refers to “red water” in the local Sundanese language; The red moss ( Sphagnum gedeanum ) found around the falls sometimes imparts a red tint to the water flowing from the falls.
Climbing to the Pangrango Summit
The road to Gede and Pangrango peaks diverges after Gayonggong Swamp; Visitors will need another ten to eleven hours to reach any peak from Gayonggong onward. If you plan to advance to either of the peaks, you will need to obtain permission from the park office and accept the company of a local guide.
You will find hot springs about 5.3 km from the starting line of Cibodas. About 1.5 miles further up the road, you will arrive at Kandang Batu and Kandang Badak campground (location on Google Maps) at an altitude of 7,200 feet above sea level. The gardens are great places to bird watch and examine the unique plant species of the area.
The summit and the crater of Mt. Gede (location on Google Maps, approximate) is a full five-hour walk from the Cibodas gate, about six miles from the starting point. The volcano has a total of three relatively active craters at this point, which is about 9,700 feet above sea level.
Descend a few more kilometers along the trail and you will come across Suryakencana Meadow (location on Google Maps) , a large plain populated with edelweiss flowers. The meadow is situated at an altitude of 9,000 feet above sea level, and is 7.3 miles, or a six-hour walk, from Cibodas.
Camping en el parque Gunung Gede Pangrango
Depending on your pace and route, you can set up camp at one of several campsites in or around Gunung Gede Pangrango Park: Gunung Putri (Google Maps), Cibodas Golf (Google Maps), Selabintana (Google Maps) and Calliandra (Google Maps).
To pre-arrange an evening visit at any of these Gunung Gede Pangrango park camps, please contact the National Park staff at +62 856 5955 2221.
A nearby “five-star” campground allows visitors to enjoy a more refined camping experience. Nearby Situ Gunung Sukabumi is home to Tanakita (tanakita.id), a two-hectare camp that offers its own tents, mattresses, sleeping bags and pillows; and hot and cold showers and baths.
Reaching Gunung Gede Pangrango Park
The Cibodas gate of Gunung Gede Pangrango Park is easily accessible by car.
From Jakarta, you need to take the Jagorawi toll road out of the city and exit at the Gadog toll gate. Go straight onto Puncak, approximately 4.7 miles, until you reach the intersection after the TSE Outlet store, where you can turn right. Go straight for approximately 1.8 more miles until you reach the Puerta de Cibodas. Each vehicle will be charged an entry fee of 3,000 IDR (approximately 30 US cents), with an additional IDR of 1,000 (10 US cents) per person.
If you are staying at a nearby resort, your accommodation can arrange a visit to Gunung Gede Pangrango Park using its own in-house vehicle. Ask your hotel or resort if this can be arranged.
When to visit Gunung Gede Pangrango park, what to wear
Visit Gunung Gede Pangrango Park from May to October, when the dry season begins and the paths are more passable. Roads are closed to visitors from January to March and throughout August – the park takes advantage of bad weather to allow the ecology to recover from visitors throughout the year.
Day trippers can take about five hours to reach the Cibeureum Falls and return; More experienced hikers will want to take two full days to explore the park and its treasures.
Visitors will experience cool and humid weather at the higher altitudes of the mountain, so rain jackets and waterproof trekking shoes are recommended.
For more information, visit the official site at www.gedepangrango.org, email: [email protected] or call + 62-263-512776. To reserve visits or camping privileges, email [email protected] or call + 62-263-519415.
