The beautiful castles that line the mighty Loire River are a great attraction in the summer. But happily, many remain open in the winter as well. And in winter, they have the rooms to yourselves, so you really feel the ghosts of the great figures of the past walking alongside you through the empty, echoing rooms. Parks and gardens may be less colorful than in the summer months, but you can see the shapes of the flower beds, the gentle slopes, and the trees. Here are five of the most magnificent properties that remain open year-round.
The royal castle of Amboise
The castle of the French kings of Amboise is located at the western end of the Loire, between Tours and Blois. With fully furnished royal apartments and a history dating back to Charles VIII in the 15th century, there is so much to see. The castle overlooks the city and the river and has a magnificent view over the Loire.
As a bonus, Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years of his life at the nearby Chateau du Clos-Luce, where you will see manicured gardens and 40 models of his magnificent machines. He is buried in the chapel of the castle St-Hubert.
Chaumont Castle
Chaumont is located between Amboise and Blois. It is essentially a medieval castle that was greatly embellished during the Renaissance, and its interest lies both in the rivalry between two extremely powerful women and in the furnished apartments. Catherine de ‘Medici, widow of Henry II, forced her rival in the king’s last affections, Diane de Poitiers, to give up her Château de Chenonceau (more on that below) in exchange for Chaumont, which was less spectacular.
Chaumont became a cultural center in 2008 and has been transformed by a stained glass panel installation in 2011. Chaumont is particularly known for its spectacular International Garden Festival which takes place each year from April to October / November.
Castle of Blois in the Loire Valley
Blois is one of the largest castles in the Loire, located high above the city. It was originally just a medieval castle defending the area until Francois decided to move here in 1503 from Amboise. Since then, seven kings and 10 queens of France have lived here.
Blois is a visual lesson in the development of secular architecture in France from feudal times to Louis XIII in the 17th century. Part brick, part stone, the buildings include triumphal arch gates, Italian-style décor, Gothic pillars, and marvelous ornamentation. It’s also full of intrigue, thanks to Catherine de Medici’s study with its secret wardrobes and Henry III’s apartments where Henri, Duc de Guise, was assassinated.
Chambord Castle in el valle del Loira
Chambord was the first of the great classical palaces built in France. It is located in a vast park behind a 32-kilometer (20-mile) wall in the great forest of Sologne, which provided the hunt for the kings and queens of France.
François, was not happy with the old royal palace in Blois, despite the improvements that he himself had made in the 16th century. So he drew up plans for a spectacular new building in full Renaissance style. It is a large building, some of them supposedly designed by Leonardo da Vinci. The double staircase points to a creative mind with its interlocking spirals that open onto internal loggias.
But François I did not enjoy the castle with its richly furnished state rooms or the glorious views from the pepper roofs that he had commissioned. Defeated in battle in 1525, he returned to France to live closer to Paris and spent his last years at Fontainebleau and St-Germain-en-Laye.
Cheverny Castle
Unlike many of the great Loire castles, Cheverny is still in the same family that built it in 1634. The owner’s hunting dogs are kept on the estate, so if you are lucky you can see the herd preparing for the a day hunt, complete with green-clad horsemen trotting behind.
Cheverny is gloriously symmetrical with a central facade flanked by square pavilions. Climb the wide main stone staircase and enter a world decorated of elegance and luxury: tapestries on the walls, painted wooden ceilings, ornate gilded fireplaces, old master paintings, portraits, upholstered chairs, ornate cabinets from Boulle so dear to Louis . XIV, half tester and canopy beds covered in red and gold silk, and armor on the walls.
Chenonceau Castle
Built across the River Cher, Chenonceau is an extraordinary property. It is known as the Castle of the Ladies, occupied by the Ladies of Chenonceau . Originally built by Katherine Briçonnet, its story really began when Henry II bought it in 1547 for his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. When Henri died in a jousting tournament in 1559, his wife and Diane’s archrival, Catherine de Medici, forced Diane to exchange her beloved Chenonceau for Chaumont. Catherine went to work on the castle, in particular building the two-story gallery on the bridge that recalls the bridges in her native Florence, Italy.
Inside, Chenonceau is adorned with tapestries and goblin paintings by masters such as Poussin and Rubens that adorn the Five Queens room, Louis XIV’s apartment, the large gallery overlooking the River Cher, and Catherine de Medici’s green cabinet and the kitchens.
At Christmas Chenonceau is magical with huge Christmas trees on the veranda overlooking Cher and tables set for a feast in the kitchens.
