Sea waves are a consequence of the propagation of movement between two media , the air in the atmosphere and the sea water. Changes in atmospheric pressure cause oscillations on the surface of the liquid. In turn, the action of the wind that brushes the surface gives rise to what are known as capillary waves , when its thrust is lighter, or gravitational waves, when the friction on the sheet of water is more intense.
Generally, stronger winds cause higher waves . Factors such as the speed and intensity of wind action, the amount of time the air maintains a stable direction, the surface area of the water affected, and the depth come into play. As the waves get closer to the shore, they move more slowly due to the shallower depth, while the crest increases in height. The process continues until the lifted area moves faster than the underwater part, at which point the movement destabilizes and the wave breaks .
In addition, there are other types of waves of different origin: they are the ones that constitute the so-called bottom sea , lower and more rounded. They arise from differences in pressure, temperature and salinity between adjacent areas, which cause the movement of water from where these parameters are lower to areas where they are higher. As the liquid moves, it forms currents and waves.
