With dozens of lush parks and gardens scattered throughout the city, Madrid has earned its reputation as the greenest capital in Europe. And with a pleasant Mediterranean climate and abundant sunshine throughout the year, it is always easy to enjoy these beautiful spaces.
Without a doubt, the best known of all the parks in Madrid is the Parque del Buen Retiro, commonly known simply as Retiro. Similar in size to London’s Hyde Park, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this abundant green space. Here’s what you need to know about Retiro so that you can enjoy this beautiful park like a local.
History of the Buen Retiro Park
Today, millions of people from around the world and from all walks of life enjoy the natural and cultural spaces of Retiro. However, that was not the case when the park was created in the mid-17th century. The Count-Duke of Olivares donated the land that makes up the park to King Felipe IV, and in its first centuries of use, the park belonged exclusively to the royal family of Spain.
In the 19th century, the peaceful park changed hands from the monarchy to the government of the city of Madrid, officially becoming municipal property. It was officially opened to the public in 1868, and visitors from around the world have been enjoying it ever since.
In 1663, shortly after the park was completed, a Mexican cypress was planted in the Parterre garden. That tree is still standing today, which makes it the oldest in Madrid. Another enduring feature of Retiro is the iconic man-made lake, which was part of the original royal park. It was originally used to organize re-enactments of famous naval battles (in which King Philip IV himself often participated!).
big lake
Let’s go back to the famous lake for a moment. Known as the »Great Lake» (that’s actually its official name!), It serves as one of the most recognizable symbols of the Retiro Park, as well as one of the best photographs of Madrid.
Today, you can rent rowboats and relax in the Madrid sun while taking in views of the historic monument that sits atop the lake. A popular activity with local families and visitors, it’s a great way to relax in the heart of Spain’s bustling capital.
Crystal Palace
Although the timeless wrought iron architecture may make it appear that the Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) has always existed, it is actually one of Retiro’s new features (relatively speaking, considering the history of about 400 years of the park).
It dates back to 1887, when the architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco built it for the Philippine Exposition that year. Originally intended to be used as a greenhouse, today it is home to fascinating art and cultural displays, as well as breathtaking views as the sunlight dances on the glass.
Rosaleda Rose Garden
Home to more than 4,000 beautiful and colorful roses from across Europe, Retiro’s exquisite rose garden is at its best in the months of May and June when the flowers are in full bloom. The charming fountain and carefully trimmed hedges that line the picturesque paths will make you feel like you’ve been dropped into a charming fairytale garden. Also don’t miss the nearby Fallen Angel statue – it’s one of the most controversial sights in the park due to its depiction of Satan.
Get there
Located east of Madrid city center in a quiet residential neighborhood, Retiro is easily accessible from almost anywhere in the city. Due to the compact size of the central area of Madrid, getting there on foot is no problem. The city’s most famous avenue, Gran Vía, as well as the central square of Puerta del Sol are a 20-minute walk away.
On the other hand, maybe you’ve been walking all day and don’t feel like walking to the park on foot. If you prefer to take public transportation, simply take metro line 2 to Retiro station, which is located directly in front of the park.
Things to do nearby
The Retiro Park is just one of the myriad sights and attractions in Madrid that make the Spanish capital worth visiting. It is within walking distance of some of the city’s most iconic museums: the Prado, the Thyssen, and the National Archaeological Museum.
If you prefer to stay outdoors, exit the park at the northwest corner, where you will see the Puerta de Alcalá, the triumphant 18th-century gate that was once the main entrance to the city. Continue down Calle de Alcalá and you’ll soon find yourself on Gran Vía, Madrid’s most iconic street and home to some of the most picturesque buildings in the city.
