Easily one of the most attractive cities in the Basque Country, from its beautiful beaches to its attractive old town, Saint-Jean-de-Luz ( Donibane Lohizune in Basque) is a jewel in the Basque Country’s crown. This small beach community is charming, from its harbor lined with colorful boats to its boutiques that sell surf equipment and lessons throughout the year. And due to its mild climate, it is a winter-summer resort.
Where is San Juan de Luz?
Saint-Jean-de-Luz is on the French Atlantic coast, the last major city before the Spanish border just six miles (10 kilometers) away. It is in the Pyrénées-Atlantique department of France and its closest neighbors are Biarritz and Bayonne.
How to get there
Take the train or fly to Biarritz. Then take a train (every 12 minutes) to Saint-Jean station on av de Verdun, on the edge of the city center and close to the beach.
A little story
Saint-Jean was a rich port from its Atlantic fishing and whaling (and the even more lucrative profession of pirates) from the 17th century onwards. But the most illustrious event in the city was the marriage of King Louis XIV, the “Sun King” to María Teresa, the Infanta of Spain, on June 9, 1660.
The city later appeared in the ongoing conflicts between France and England when the Duke of Wellington established his headquarters here during the Peninsular War of 1813-14.
Saint-Jean was always a strategic port. In World War II, it was the place where thousands of Polish Army soldiers in France, Polish officials, British and French citizens who had continued to fight against Germany after General de Gaulle’s request to continue the war, were evacuated in 1940 at the UK. They were taken to the passenger ships that participated in the evacuation bound for Liverpool.
What to see
First of all, Saint Jean de Luz is located in a beautiful and protected sandy bay. It has good beaches, making it ideal for families. Surfers can reach Biarritz for the Atlantic waves that make this a great attraction for athletics.
Saint Jean de Luz’s success as a fishing port was due to its unique protection. The long stretch south from the Arcachon Bay near Bordeaux has one of the best surfing spots in France as it is exposed to the great breakers of the Atlantic Ocean. But Saint-Jean is protected by being in an estuary between two headlands, a natural barrier that was extended by huge dikes and the Artha breakwaters. You have a great view from the harbor docks to the old town.
The old town
Stroll the streets to enjoy some charming half-timbered mansions, built by the city’s wealthy shipowners and merchants. You can’t miss the two most impressive ones. La Maison de L’Infante ( Quai de l’Infante ) is an imposing 4-story red brick and stone building that once belonged to the wealthy Haraneder family. The infanta stayed here with her future mother-in-law, Anne of Austria, before their wedding. Today you see the 17th century great room on the first floor with a huge painted ceiling from the Fontainebleau school and a huge fireplace.
It’s imposing rather than cozy, not the best place for that pre-wedding night. The marriage was not the greatest of successes with Louis XIV getting lost many times and Maria-Theresa finding solace in religion. There were several children, although none of them survived to become ruler of France. Maria Teresa died in 1683.
The French king stayed at the Maison Louis XIV (6 place Louis XIV) which is magnificent. It was built for Johanis de Lohobiague in 1635, but changed its name after young Louis stayed here in 1660 before their marriage. Inside, you can see different rooms, including the magnificent room (where the state business was conducted), as well as the kitchen.
The other building associated with the marriage is the church of St-Jean-Baptiste on the main shopping and tourist street (rue Gambetta). The church, dating from the 15th century, is the largest and most famous Basque church in France. From the outside it looks simple; Enter, however, for a glorious church, highly decorated with a vaulted ceiling of painted panels. The three tiers of dark oak galleries with wrought iron staircases that line three sides were reserved for men; the women sat on the ground.
There is a gold altarpiece from the 1670s and a 17th century pulpit to keep your interest. Don’t miss the brick door on the outside that was used by the royal couple, which was then closed forever.
Surf all year
You can surf all year round on the beaches of Saint Jean de Luz. Families should stay on the city’s Grande Plage beach and be well protected. Lifeguards are on duty from June to mid-September, and you can hire hammocks and windbreaks. There are lifeguards on duty every day (from 11am) from June to mid-September, plus the weekend in May.
Go a little further out of town to visit the surfing beaches of Plage d’Erromardie, Plage de Mayarco, Plage de Lafiténia and Plage de Cénitz, both known as particularly good beaches for surfing.
With such a reputation, there are excellent surf shops where you can buy or rent equipment and also book lessons for one-time classes or a week-long dive in the art.
Where to stay and eat
- Les Goëlands (4-6 av d’Etcheverry) is located in two turn-of-the-century villas close to the beach and the old town. Ask for a room with a balcony and ocean view. They have a restaurant, a garden and free parking.
- Le Petit Trianon (56 bd Victor-Hugo) is a charming little hotel near the beach with small, cheerfully decorated rooms and good bathrooms. Enjoy the buffet breakfast on the terrace in summer.
- The elegant 3-star Hotel de la Plage (Promenade Jacques Thibaud) has balconies with sea views and less expensive rooms with city views. It is comfortable and well managed, with good bathrooms and a good restaurant, La Brouillarta. You will get good food and if you are lucky you can see from the huge windows of the brouillarta itself, a storm coming from the sea.
- The stone walls of Zoko Moko (6 rue Mazarin) and immaculate white tables and chairs set the stage for fine cuisine. It’s more expensive than many of the city’s restaurants, but it’s worth the price for the best seafood and fresh ingredients.
Thalassotherapy
Saint-Jean is a great getaway to experience spa therapy at sea and enjoy the hot springs. You can find everything from underwater whirlpools to aqua fitness classes. There are two main spas and health centers: Loreamar Thalasso Spa and Thalazur Thalasso Spa.
Tourist office: in front of the fish market / corner of bd Victor Hugo and rue Bernard Jaureguiberry
Edited by Mary Anne Evans
