Why visit Bourges?
Most people visit Bourges for its cathedral, one of the great Gothic buildings in France and one of France’s world heritage sites, although it is less famous than Chartres. But it has more possibilities than the cathedral, magnificent as it may be. Bourges has charming old buildings around the cathedral and very good restaurants.
At the southern end of the Loire Valley, Bourges is conveniently close to the Sancerre wine areas, castles and gardens in this part of the region. It also makes a very good overnight stop for anyone going from northern French ports to southern France, Provence, and the Mediterranean.
A little story
Strategically located in the central part of France, Bourges was an important city when Gaul (France) was conquered by the Romans. Dismissed by Julius Caesar in 52 BC. C., it became the capital of the Roman province of Avaricum in the 4th century. Under Jean de Berry in the 14th century, Bourges became a true powerhouse of artistic achievement, rivaling Dijon and Avignon. Its name is inextricably linked with the peerless illuminated miniatures known as Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry .
Fast facts
- Bourges is the main town of the Berry region
- Bourges population is around 95,000
- Located on the river Yevre
- Tourist Office
21 rue Victor-Hugo
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 23 02 60
Website
Things to do in Bourges
The St-Etienne Cathedral is in the center of the city and is a landmark for miles. The 12th century cathedral was built as a show stopper in what was then the new Gothic style. Not only was it designed to look impressive, but architectural innovations meant that some of the restraining details like transepts were no longer needed and instead the two-tier flying buttresses were revealed in all their glory. The cathedral is now classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The tympanum above the main gate on the west front depicts the Last Judgment in marvelous gory details, designed to make the viewer shudder in their shoes at the fate awaiting the wicked.
Inside, the first impression is of height, then you are drawn to the glorious stained glass windows from the 12th and 13th centuries. Go to the choir to see the remarkable biblical stories, all created between 1215 and 1225. The windows here were made according to the techniques of the Chartres master glassmakers; Elsewhere windows were added and renovated over the next five centuries.
There are other features to note: the large astronomical clock with its forehead painted to celebrate the wedding of Charles VII to Marie d’Anjou in 1422, and the crypt with some remaining parts of Jean de Berry’s original tomb.
The same ticket allows you to climb the north tower for a fabulous view over the medieval rooftops and the countryside beyond the city.
Open from April 1 to September 30 from 8.30 am to 7.15 pm
from October 1 to March 31 from 9 am to 5.45 pm Guided management
free
from the cathedral 6 euros per person
Guided tour of the cathedral and the medieval city 8 euros per person
Tourist information and tickets Office.
Exit the cathedral at the Etienne-Dolet place where the former bishop lived in a palace of some kind. Today, the Jacques Coeur Palace houses a museum that can only be obtained in France, Le Musée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (Museum of the best workers in France; tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 57 82 45; information). The title is bestowed by the government to those at the top of their profession, from butchers to bakers to candle makers. It is a great honor and the winners are invited to the Elysee Palace in Paris to receive the award.
This museum houses pieces made by French artisans with a different theme each year. There is a beautiful view of the cathedral from the gardens attached to the palace.
The old buildings of Bourges are found around the cathedral, and the best are turned into museums. To the east of the cathedral, the former Renaissance Hotel Lallemant is the wedding cake of a building. It houses the Museum of Decorative Arts, which has some good paintings, tapestries, and furniture. (6 rue Bourbonnoux, tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 57 81 17; website).
Walk north of the cathedral to the 15th-century Hotel des Echevins, which houses the Maurice Estebe Museum (13 rue Edouard Branly, tel: 00 33 (0) 2 48 24 75 48; website). It’s full of paintings by this colorful local artist, and again the bonus is seeing inside the building.
Rue Edouard Branly becomes rue Jacques Coeur, where you will come across the other important historical building in Bourges, the Palais Jacques-Coeur.
Jacques Coeur (1395-1456) began as a goldsmith at Jean de Berry’s court and later became Charles VII’s finance minister. This was a time when the astute businessman could make a fortune, and Jacques Coeur was one of the most astute, he became a moneylender and supplier of luxury goods to the King. To show his wealth, a palace was built. The 15th century building is adorned with amazing decorative stones.
Watch out for visual jokes like hearts and scallop shells (‘coeur’ is French for heart). There is a wonderful bas-relief of a large sailing ship, symbolic of the wealth of the owner. The house was way ahead of its time, with latrines, a steam room, and toilets.
Palais Jacques
Coeur Website of the Rue Jacques-Coeur
For opening hours , see the website above.
Adult admission 7 euros, 18 to 25 years 4.50 euros, children under 17 free.
From here you will find steps that lead to the rue des Arenes and the 16th century Hotel Cujas (Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 41 92; open Monday to Wednesday, Saturday at 10 a.m. and 2 a.m. 6 pm; Sunday 2-6pm; free admission). The splendid building houses the Musée du Berry, which includes Roman remains and displays the times of Jean de Berry with artifacts, including the magnificent (mourning) delights that adorned the tomb. There are paintings by Jean Boucher, and on the first floor, a good selection of items showing rural life in Berry in the 19th century.
Where to stay
Les Bonnets Rouges
3 rue de la Thaumassiere
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 65 79 92
Website
Four charming rooms are set around a private patio in a 17th century house decorated with antiques. The top floor room has great views of the cathedral.
Rooms from 58 to 80 euros, breakfast included.
Bourbon Mercure Hotel
Bd de la Republique
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 70 00
Website
Central hotel in a former abbey from the 17th century. The comfortable and elegant rooms in one of the best hotels in Bourges are luxurious. Rooms from 125 to 240 euros. Breakfast 17 euros.
Hotel Villa C
20 ave. Henri-Laudier
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 18 15 04 00
Website
This charming and elegant 19th century house near the station is decorated in contemporary style and has only 12 rooms. With a rooftop terrace, equally stylish in design, and a stylish bar serving local Loire Valley wines, this is a real find. 115 to 185 euros. Breakfast 12 euros. No restaurant
Le christina
5 rue Halle
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 56 50
Website
Don’t be put off by the exterior, this 71-room hotel in the heart of the old town has well-decorated and traditional rooms. Rates vary by season but average around 90 euros. No restaurant
Recommended Restaurants
Bourges has a good selection of restaurants, with many of them along rue Bourbonnoux near the cathedral.
Le d’Antan Sancerrois
50 rue Bourbonnoux
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 65 92 26
Website
This one Michelin star restaurant in the city center is stylish and modern, much like the kitchen. Try dishes like foie gras with creamy lentils, followed by lobster with scallops. All made with the freshest seasonal ingredients.
Menus from 35 to 85 euros.
Le Cercle
44 bd Lahitolle
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 33 27
Website
Awarded a Michelin star in 2013, this relatively new restaurant (opened in 2011) offers two bars for an aperitif or digestif and an attractive room that opens onto a garden. The cuisine is modern and inventive, like a starter of foie gras with quince, warm smoked scallop and Chinese cabbage, and entrees like local Bourbonnais chicken with a spiced broth and mashed avocado.
Menus from 25 to 80 euros.
Le Bourbonnoux
44 rue Bourbonnoux
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 24 14 76
Website Los
Bright colors at this under-floor restaurant and good traditional cuisine make this a popular local option. Good-value menus offer asparagus risotto, roasted leg of lamb with pepper sauce and spring vegetables, and classic desserts.
Menus from 13 to 32 euros.
Le Bistro Gourmand
5 pl from La Barre
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 63 37
In the heart of Bourges overlooking the cathedral, this is a great lunch spot with outdoor seating for sunny days. Simple decor and good honest cooking. Lunchtime favorites include fresh, large salads; There are grilled dishes, skewers and a good children’s menu.
Lunch menu 16.50 euros.
Jacques Coeur Pub
1 rue d’Auron
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 48 70 72 88
Great pub atmosphere in this quaint place where financier Jacques Coeur was born. It is very busy on the weekends and there is a billiard room downstairs.
Local food and wine specialties
Keep an eye out for Green Berry Lentils (but don’t confuse them with Le Puy Lentils in Auvergne); pumpkins, and try Berrichon , a local pork and egg pie.
Drink the local wines of the Loire Valley: whites from Vouvray, Montlouis, Amboise, Azay-le-Rideau and red wines from Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas.
Tourist attractions in Bourges
Bourges is very central in the Loire Valley, making it well located for visiting several of the region’s fabulous castles and gardens. To the northeast is Sully-sur-Loire and the great gardens and castle of Ainay-le-Vieil. Go a little further west of the Loire Valley and all its great castles and gardens, starting at Chaumont.
You are very close to some of the main vineyards in the Loire Valley, all east of Bourges. So stop by to taste and shop at Sancerre, Pouilly-sur-Loire and Sancergues to the northeast, and Valencay and Bouges to the northwest.
