The magnificent views of the Cote Vermeille have inspired some of the most famous artists in the world; in fact, they sparked a whole style of painting. Is easy to see why.
As you stand at one of several viewpoints, the Mediterranean crashes below you, interrupted by rugged mountains. Steep vineyards dot the landscape and hug the coastline. The rugged coastline of Spain can be seen just to the south.
Central location of Cote Vermeille
The “vermilion coast” is the ideal springboard to explore two regions, the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean. It is just a few minutes from Spain’s Costa Brava and a short drive from Perpignan and Barcelona.
This stretch of French coastline features a charming border town, castle ruins, endless outdoor adventures, delicious cuisine, fabulous wines, and of course some of the most stunning scenery in Europe.
Undiscovered riches of the Cote Vermeille
Unlike the French Riviera, which is packed with tourists to the east, the charming villages of the Cote Vermeille remain delightfully undiscovered. Although the beaches can get clogged during peak summer months, it is rare to find foreign visitors in this small wedge of France.
La Cote Vermeille cuts a picturesque, winding road from Argelès-sur-Mer, a popular seaside town in the far north, to Cerbère, a quaint seaside town lined with buildings painted in cotton candy hues of yellow, pink and aqua. The stretch runs for just 15 miles and generally takes less than half an hour to drive.
Neither France nor Spain, this is Catalonia
Sometimes the Cote Vermeille feels more like Spain than France. Spanish hours are the norm, with late lunches and dinners. In fact, in a sense you are no longer in France, and you are not in Spain either.
This is the heart of Catalonia, a cultural enclave that has changed hands between the two countries over the years. But whatever territory they occupy, the Catalans remain fiercely independent and take enormous pride in their culture and lifestyle.
Various sightseeing, adventures and tastes
Despite its compact size, the area is astonishingly diverse. Pretty Coullioure, an art lover’s paradise, was the birthplace of Fauvism, which emerged with the wild and colorful paintings of Henri Matisse.
Argelès is a wonderful stop for families, with a sandy beach lined with luxury seaside campsites and sun-drenched cafes.
This is a serious wine country, too, home to the rich Collioure red wine and Banyuls vin doux . Banyuls, first made by the Crusaders of the Knights Templar in the Middle Ages, gained popularity when used as a sacramental wine in churches throughout France.
You’ll find a host of historical attractions in this small geographic area, from prehistoric megaliths to ancient Greek relics and architectural treasures from the 19th century.
Outdoor activities include hiking, cycling, diving, and sailing. A unique underwater reserve, the Cerbère-Banyuls-sur-Mer Marine Nature Reserve, offers a haven for marine life and activities to its human observers.
This is a place to savor the slow and sweet life. Spend days relaxing on the beach. Take long walks along the shore. Enjoy a late multi-course dinner with amazing food.
Edited by Mary Anne Evans
The Côte Vermeille itinerary begins a few minutes outside of Perpignan in Argelès-sur-Mer, then winds south through villages, past breathtaking views and along picturesque vineyards, culminating in beautiful Cerbère, nearby from Spain.
Life’s a beach
Argelès-sur-Mer is the best beach town with pizzerias and shops selling beach products and an attractive sandy beach. It has the longest stretch of beach in the entire department of the Pyrenees-Orientales. On the other hand, it is much more than a beach town.
The city and its immediate area have no less than four castles and two nature reserves. Its Notre-Dame-dels-Prats cathedral dates back to the 14th and 17th centuries. Its dolmens, or stone ossuaries, are relics from roughly the first or second millennium BC.
Argelès is a magnet for campers, with numerous four-star luxury camps, most with swimming pools, restaurants, bars and shops. The town’s motto, “En Méditerranée, les Pyrénées ont une plage”, simply says: “In the Mediterranean, the Pyrenees have a beach.”
Art imitates Collioure
For any art lover, the attractive town of Collioure is a must. Matisse visited here during a low point in his career and was inspired and revitalized by the beautiful scenery. It is easy to imagine how. The small town, with its ocher roofs and the castle on the edge of the shore, is endlessly charming.
His vivid paintings sparked a new artistic movement, Fauvism, which attracted other artists, Matisse, Picasso and Chagall among them, to this small town. They hung out in the bar of the Hôtel-Restaurant les Templiers, which now functions as an art museum, but you can still stay there.
The town is full of museums and art galleries, highlighting the Chemin du Fauvisme . In this unique open-air museum, follow the path to find replicas of published Fauvist works where they were painted.
Immerse yourself in
Port Vendres is a lively port city, an epicenter for water activities such as diving, snorkeling, fishing, windsurfing and sailing. It is a place of worthy monuments, including an obelisk, several strong historical sites, and a lighthouse that looks like a modern sculpture.
On Saturday mornings, the town comes to life with its attractive market with products, Catalan specialties and spices as colorful as an artist’s palette. The vineyards overlook the village from the hills above.
Land of wine and honey
Banyuls-sur-Mer is the quintessential wine town in a chain of Côte Vermeille wine destinations. Here there are numerous wineries to explore and taste; you can hardly find a place where the vineyards are not visible in the distance.
Its marina, the last southern port before Spain, is a hub of activity. The aquarium here dates back to the 19th century. Stroll the narrow Allées Maillol to find local artists practicing their craft. The church of La Salette, a picturesque building that looks more Spanish than French, dominates Banyuls. It is worth visiting just for the splendid panoramic view of the town, the sea and the mountains.
“World’s End”
Few French villages show the bright Catalan colors like Cerbère. The last city on the Côte Vermeille before reaching Spain (just a few minutes away), is like a canvas coming to life, with its brightly painted boats and city center buildings.
Cerbère is one of the most beautiful places in the world for walks and walks, and the town’s tourist office can provide four self-guided walking tours that start from the heart of the village.
The last stop before entering Spain is the Cap Cerbère solar lighthouse, called “le phare du bout du monde”, “the lighthouse at the end of the world.” Walking to the edge of the cliff, with nothing but the sea stretching to the horizon, you almost believe it
Published with permission from France Magazine, it appears on this list of the best magazines in France.
Edited by Mary Anne Evans
