The part of France called the Basque Country ( Pays Basque ) is glorious and very different. On the west coast of France, you arrive from Bordeaux and suddenly find yourself in mountainous terrain; described by a 17th century traveler as’ very rugged country. ” Historically divided into seven Basque provinces, they share the same language and culture on both sides of the border with Spain.
Basque independence
Basques have always been fiercely independent, identifying more with their Spanish Basque neighbors in many ways than with their French neighbors (especially in distant cities like Paris). They speak their own language of Basque, which is shared with their Spanish counterparts, and you will see bilingual billboards and posters throughout the region.
Basque architecture
There are other differences as well, the most striking of which is the architecture. Instead of the orange stone buildings with their red terracotta tiles expected in this part of southern France, the Basque style features raw white buildings made of cob then covered with lime, and with brown, green wood timbers, burgundy or navy blue tile and overhanging ceilings These traditional homes have inspired many suburban villas.
The Basque churches are also different. Many of them were renovated in the 16th century with the belfry being more prominent than in other parts of France. It is flat rising to three pointed gables, each with a cross.
A unique Basque sport
One of the defining characteristics of the Basque Country is, surprisingly, a game. Keep an eye out for the concrete courts used to play the national ball game where two players hit a leather-covered hard ball against a high wall at one end of the court. It is a bit like squash, except that players use their bare hands or a basket-like extension. It is apparently very dangerous; the ball can travel up to 200 km / h so don’t attempt this unless you have a good coach with you.
The Costa basin
The Côte Basque runs from the Spanish border just below the town of Hendaye. This is a coastline of beautiful long sandy beaches and rocky outcrops that break the sea line. It’s only 30 kilometers long from here to the mouth of the River Adour, but it draws more than its fair share of tourists. Surfers especially flock here, hitting the waves that hit the shores of the Atlantic.
Cities and towns of the Basque coast
Biarritz is one of the great seaside resorts in France. It owes its fame to Napoleon III, who turned the small town into a playground for the rich and aristocratic. Biarritz suffered when the Côte d’Azur, but recovered as one of the great surf cities, attracting athletes from all over the world. Today, the elegant community is as fun as ever.
Bayonne is not directly on the Atlantic, but about 5 km (3 miles) inland on the River Adour. It is the economic and political capital of the Basque Country, making it very distinctive with its tall buildings and traditional green and red painted woodwork. It has a fortified old town to walk around, a cathedral, good restaurants and shops and the Basque Museum that shows what life was like in the Basque Country through agricultural implements and a maritime gallery. But be careful, the website is in French, Spanish and Basque .
Saint Jean de Luz. This important old port has a wonderful old town that overlooks the sheltered sandy bay. It is the most attractive of the resorts along this stretch of coast, which is why it is overrun during July and August, so it is best avoided. It is still a busy fishing port for anchovies and tuna. It has houses that belonged to merchants and sea captains who brought wealth of the city in the 17th and 18th centuries, and the church of San Juan Bautista.
Edited by Mary Anne Evans
