You could say that Gunung (Mount) Agung is not just a mountain in Bali; Bali is an island that simply surrounds and depends on Gunung Agung. Either way, it’s hard to overstate the importance of Gunung Agung to Bali and the Balinese.
At more than 10,300 feet, the mountain influences the island’s climate by blocking the passage of moisture from the air from west to east. As a result, the terrain east of Gunung Agung is arid.
For ordinary Balinese, Gunung Agung also represents the central axis of the universe, the summit of their three-tier universe with the Gods at the top, the humans in the middle, and the demons below. (Our explainer on Balinese culture covers this in detail.)
- For Bali Bound: Do you want to know more about the rest of the island? Read about the regions and beaches of Bali, decoded.
Un milagro en Mount Agung
Gunung Agung is considered the holiest point in Bali: each building points towards the summit, and each temple and altar faces the Pura Besakih temple on the slopes of Gunung Agung which stands as the holiest temple in Bali among the many in the Island .
As with the Holy of Holies, the Balinese believe that the temple is miraculous.
Gunung Agung last erupted in February 1963. To go for Balinese superstition, this was because an important century-long ceremony was performed incorrectly. More than 1,500 lives were lost in the wake of the initial eruption, killing even more when a secondary eruption occurred later in the year. The eruption also blew the top 400 feet of the mountain, causing more vivid sunsets than usual as far away as Europe and America.
Miraculously, Pura Besakih was unharmed by the violent eruption. Locals claimed that the lava flow approached the temple, meters from its closest point, but left the temple undamaged.
Escalando Mount Agung
With a midnight start and an arduous 7-hour uphill hike ahead of them, climbers considering an ascent to Gunung Agung would have reason to treat the experience as more than just a casual uphill hike. Among the volcanoes in Indonesia that you can explore on foot, Agung is certainly part of the tougher half of the list.
The other major volcano in Bali worth climbing is Mount Batur in Kintamani – its two-hour hike is chicken-fed compared to Gunung Agung’s.
Many hikers from Gunung Agung book a stay in the quiet town of Sidemen in eastern Bali, where you can find the best selection of hotels and homestays closest to the trail.
If you value a shorter walk over amenities, you can choose the town of Selat instead, cutting roughly 15-20 minutes off your walk.
Gunung Agung is located in the Karangasem district of eastern Bali, about an hour from Ubud, the cultural center of Bali. Numerous travel agencies around Ubud advertise transportation to Pura Besakih. Your accommodation can also arrange a private driver if you want to head to Gunung Agung without a tour.
Gunung Agung can also be accessed through the Kintamani region by driving south one hour to Rendang.
Gunung Agung’s two climbing routes
Tourists can take one of two main approaches at Gunung Agung.
The difficult approach to Besakih begins about half a mile from the Pura Besakih temple, and leads to the western peak, the absolute summit of Gunung Agung which stands at 9,944 feet above sea level. While this route is more difficult, it also ends with a spectacular view of Bali from all sides.
The easiest (but by no means easy) approach begins at Pura Pasar Agung (Bali’s highest temple), and ends at the crater rim, an elevation just 300 feet below the absolute top with views of the crater of 2,300 feet wide and Panoramic Views of South and East Bali.
You can actually start from the second route and deviate to the first halfway point during the dry season as a connecting path opens up between the two.
Time your ascent to the right and you will reach the top to find an unforgettable sunrise and views that span most of Bali. Even Gunung Rinjani from Lombok in Lombok is visible from the top! However, you will have to come down before 9am as the clouds start rolling in at 9am
Both routes may be closed during holidays, so check with the locals first before planning your trip.
Mount Agung Escalada is impressive
You won’t need real climbing gear to get to the top of Gunung Agung, but the unpredictable weather and difficult climbing conditions require common sense preparation before you go. Bring the following items when considering a climb.
- Cold Weather Jacket – Morning temperatures are extremely cold; The wind is strong on the exposed summit.
- Waterproof gear: Gunung Agung influences all the weather in Bali. Prepare for unexpected rain even during the dry season.
- Sun Protection: After a spooky wait for sunrise, the sun appears in full force and temperatures rise rapidly. Bring a hat and sun protection. Read about how to protect yourself from sunburn in Southeast Asia.
- Proper Footwear – Volcanic rock will do short work of sandals and exposed toes. Wear suitable closed-toe climbing shoes on your ascent; you’ll need grippy footwear to handle slippery mud and bare rocks on the trail.
- Water: Once the climb begins, there will be no water available on the trail. Bring at least two liters of water, you will need everything for the ascent and the return trip.
- Food and snacks: Expensive and low quality, the food aimed at tourists near Pura Besakih is not the best example of Indonesian food. Grab your own high-energy snacks to replace the calories burned on the climb.
- Flashlight – Navigating the trail before sunrise is impossible without a flashlight, and getting lost without one would turn your adventure into a nightmare. Bring a lighthouse; you’ll need your hands free to negotiate the rocky part of the climb.
Guides are required, but spotty enforcement means that travelers often ignore this rule. If you value your safety, you will surely get a guide that will take you to the summit. You can hire guides at Besakih or Pura Pasar Agung, but the smart money is to hire guides before the actual ascent date; Both Sidemen and Selat offer guide services to Agung.
Expect to pay between $ 50 and $ 80 per guide for their services. The tour usually includes breakfast at the summit, usually a light pancake breakfast.
- Before you go: find out how to prepare for your trip to Southeast Asia.
When to go
Bali’s dry months between April and October offer your best chance for a pleasant climbing experience at Gunung Agung. During the wet months of November to March, the roads become more slippery due to the rains, and dangerous landslides have been known to occur.
