Boca do Inferno (literally, “the mouth of hell”) is the dramatic name given to a rocky arch and a bay near Cascais, on the outskirts of Lisbon. Endless shocks from the ocean eventually struck part of the smooth limestone cliffs that make up the coastline in this part of Portugal, creating a cave that subsequently collapsed. The end result is an arch and a small bay that is completely exposed to the ocean.
If you are there in the summer, you probably wonder what all the fuss is about. Gentle waves slide silently into the bay, and the endless sun reflects off the calm ocean. It feels like the perfect place to take some photos and admire the view, and as far from the gates of hell as you can imagine.
However, come back a few months later and things will look very different. Fierce storms from the Atlantic hit the area, and it’s easy to see how the place got its name as huge waves hit the rocks and roar through the arch.
Because the resulting spray often reaches higher than the surrounding cliffs, the site has been a storm watcher’s favorite for more than a century. Be careful when visiting in particularly bad conditions, and always stick to the marked viewpoints and paths. As impressive as the views are, the area can be dangerous, and fishermen and tourists alike have died after falling off cliffs over the years.
The location of one of the earliest documentary films (in 1896), Boca do Inferno rose to fame a few decades later when British occultist and magician Aleister Crowley faked his own death there, apparently after getting tired of his girlfriend. He appeared alive and well at an exhibition in Berlin three weeks later, but the text of his “suicide note” is immortalized on a plaque on the site.
How do I get to the hell of Boca Do?
A little over a mile west of the popular seaside town of Cascais, getting to Boca do Inferno is easy. Most day visitors arrive by train from Lisbon, as there is a direct service from Cais do Sodre downtown station, running every 20-30 minutes during the day.
On sunny days a popular approach is to walk or bike along the coast from the train station or the city center, just pass the marina and lighthouse, and follow the road. It is also easily accessible by taxi or car. There is a reasonable amount of street parking available nearby, though it can get crowded at peak times.
The site is open all year round, and there is no fee to enter. Once you are there, you can see the Boca do Inferno from the top of the cliffs, or along paths cut into the rock on either side. Some stalls sell some of the best value souvenirs in the area, and there is also a cafe offering snacks and drinks on-site. Public restrooms are available if you need them.
If you can handle it, schedule your visit at sunset to snap some spectacular photos, before heading back to Cascais. If you need them, the trains back to Lisbon run until after midnight (pdf).
What else is there to do nearby?
Most visitors spend around half an hour at Boca do Inferno. Once you’ve had your fill of the waves (or the quiet, depending on the time of year), you have a few options to visit other places in the area.
First of all, there is Cascais itself. This former fishing village has been transformed into a popular vacation spot for locals and tourists, though it still retains its tranquil seaside atmosphere. Three small beaches are adjacent to the old town, and if they are too crowded for your liking, others are within walking distance (or a short train or taxi ride) further east.
Cascais has many great restaurants, not to mention some of the best ice cream in the country, but if you prefer a high-end experience, take a taxi a few miles west of Praia do Guincho. This windswept stretch of sand is understandably popular with kitesurfers, who are easily visible from Fortaleza do Guincho, the Michelin-starred restaurant on the cliffs above the beach.
A few kilometers further away is Sintra, the former home of the Portuguese royal family, and one of the most popular day trips from Lisbon. It is possible to visit Cascais, Boca do Inferno and Sintra in a single very long day, but if you do, expect to run from sight to sight from sunrise to sunset!
