Romantic Jumièges
Jumièges Abbey in Normandy is one of the most beautiful, romantic and outstanding ruins in France. It is just west of the Normandy capital, Rouen, on a bend in the Lower Seine, in the small town of Jumièges.
It has an extraordinary quality, so visit, if you can, when the only sounds are of towers singing and the wind whispering softly in the trees. Then you can really appreciate the soaring vaults open to the sky and the ruined walls and columns that once supported the mighty buildings set in a green park.
A little bit of history
Once one of the great Benedictine abbeys of France, Jumièges was founded in 654 by Saint Philibert and in 50 years housed 700 monks and 1,500 lay brothers. The abbey was extraordinarily rich. Inevitably such a wealthy institution was a target and Jumièges was regularly attacked by Viking invaders between 841 and 940.
Rebuilt in the 11th century and consecrated in the presence of William the Conqueror in 1067, it once again grew rich and powerful, as well as an important intellectual center known for its Scriptorium where monks worked on its impressive illuminated manuscripts.
The destruction came with the Wars of Religion (1562-1598) between Catholics and Protestants and then the French Revolution, which effectively spelled the end of the Abbey. In 1793 the abbey was sold by auction to a timber merchant who wanted it for its stones. The chancel and lantern tower exploded and more vandalism followed. In 1852 he was rescued by the Lepel-Cointet family who rebuilt the entrance shelter and landscaped the park before selling it to the state in 1946.
What you see
Pick up the little brochure at the entrance to guide you through the ruins, or grab your iPad to connect to the informational app. With this you can walk through what appear to be the old buildings. You will easily find that your pace slows down as you look at the expanse of Jumièges Abbey, which is one of my 10 best abbeys in France.
You start in the rebuilt shed. Walk through the 14th century porch and on your left you will see the Notre-Dame church. It was built on an impressive scale with 46 meter (150 feet) tall towers and a 27 meter (88 feet) tall nave. You can’t get in, so walk on your right, past the old hospice where the rich and important visitors stayed to the little Saint-Pierre church. Then continue to the back of the massive Notre-Dame church or walk through the park to a small formal terrace for a good overview.
Jumièges
Abbey of Jumièges
76480 Jumièges
Seine Maritime
Tel .: 00 33 (0) 2 35 37 24 02
Jumièges website
Open since
mid-April to mid-September daily from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm From
mid-September to mid-April from 9:30 am to 1 pm, from 2:30 to 5:30 pm
Entry
Adults 5 euros, 18-25 years 3.50 euros, free for under 18s
Addresses
Jumièges is located in the Boucles de la Seine Normandy regional park. It is located 165 kilometers (102.5 miles) northwest of Paris, on the D143, which is right next to the D982, and 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) west of Rouen.
Where to eat in Jumièges
L’Auberge des Ruines
17 pl de la Mairie
Jumièges, Seine-Maritime
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 35 37 24 05
Website
Right across from the Abbey with a summer terrace, young chef / owner Loic Henry uses local, seasonal produce.
Where to stay in Jumièges
Le Clos des Fontaines
19 rue des Fontaines
Jumièges, Seine-Maritime
Tel.: 00 33 (0) 2 35 33 96 96
Website
Charming half-timbered hotel in Normandy with classic and contemporary rooms and a heated outdoor pool.
