If you’ve ever been to Puerto Rico, you’ve seen Vejigante Masks. These fantastically brightly colored masks fantastically adorn the walls of countless souvenir shops in San Juan and around the island. The one hanging on my wall is black and pink, with five huge horns and a sharp beak.
But what are they and where do they come from? The answer lies in the history of Puerto Rico and the cultural convergence that produced unique traditions. The vejigante is a folk figure whose origins date back to medieval Spain. Legend has it that the vejigante represented the infidel Moors who were defeated in a battle led by Santiago. To honor the saint, people dressed as demons took to the streets in an annual procession. Over time, the vejigante became a kind of folk demon, but in Puerto Rico it took on a new dimension with the introduction of African and native Taino cultural influence.
The Africans supplied the heavy Bomba and Plena drum music, while the Tainos contributed native elements to the most important part of the vejigante costume: the mask. As such, the vejigante of Puerto Rico is a unique cultural expression of Puerto Rico.
The face mask
The mask of the vejigante is known as a mask. Made from papier-mâché or coconut shells (though I’ve seen many masks made from pumpkin, too), it typically sports a fearsome variety of horns, fangs, and beaks, and is often dotted with polka dots. The masks are hand painted and assembled by local artisans. While the “real” mask is obviously large enough to be worn, you will find that the mask sizes range from miniature creations that you can easily take home to masterpieces like the Chinese dragon.
Similarly, prices start at around $ 10 and run into the thousands.
Beyond the mask
Vejigante is an amalgamation of two words in Spanish: bladder , or cow’s bladder, and gigante , or giant. The name refers to the bladders that the characters carry with them. The bladder, which is dry, inflated, full of seeds and painted, is the reliable weapon of the bladder. During the Ponce Carnival, the largest cultural event in Puerto Rico and an annual stage for the vejigante to display their things, the characters will happily walk through the crowd, singing, singing and hitting random passersby with their bladders.
(Don’t worry, this isn’t a violent or painful experience… at least it’s not meant to be!) The banter between the vejigantes and the crowds is part of the fun.
The mask is only part of the set. Also, the vejigante has a flowing cape, a bit like a clown costume but with wavy sides that spread out like wings when the bladder spreads its arms.
You don’t have to wait for Carnival to find vejigantes. They can be found at a variety of events and festivals. Saw one hang out at Saborea! – But to really get the full experience, there is nothing like the Ponce Carnival and the Fiesta de Santiago Apostól , or Santiago Festival, which is held in LoÃza every July. These two cities are the unofficial capitals of the Vejigante tradition in Puerto Rico, and where you can find many of the island’s best artisans and mask makers.
I believe that the beautiful, unusual and vibrant vejigante mask is the most representative and interesting expression of the artisan tradition of Puerto Rico. While they vary widely in quality (especially the miniatures, which in my opinion don’t capture the spirit of the masks), it’s not hard to find a lovely skin to call your own. And if they are not quite symmetrical, remember that these are not factory made souvenirs, but handcrafted works. Asymmetry is part of its beauty!
