Madrid is a world within a city, as evidenced by its colorful variety of neighborhoods, each with its own unique flavor. From the elegant and exclusive Salamanca to the multicultural Lavapiés and the tapas paradise that is La Latina, there is a neighborhood of Madrid for each and everyone, no matter what their tastes are.
But one point in particular stands out, and that is Huertas. Officially known as » el barrio de las letras «, or the Literary Quarter, it takes its local nickname from the main street that runs through the center of the neighborhood, Calle Huertas (we’ll have more on that in a moment).
Originally the area was nothing more than farmland ( huertas means “farms” in Spanish), but it was incorporated into the growing metropolis of Madrid during its urban expansion. Once it became an established part of the city in its own right, the neighborhood began to attract some of Spain’s leading intellectuals, from poets to playwrights to authors and more, hence its official name.
Located just steps from downtown, the Huertas neighborhood today offers plenty of old-school charm and contemporary fun. It’s particularly known for its nightlife, but that’s not the last thing to do in Huertas. The neighborhood also boasts many literary and history references, sometimes written directly on the streets. This is what to include in your itinerary for a perfect day (and night) in the most beautiful neighborhood in Madrid.
Have a drink at Viva Madrid and Magister
Spain is the European country with more bars per capita than any other, and two of the best in Madrid are practically next to Huertas. Magister is a microbrewery serving great free tapas, while Viva Madrid is one of the oldest bars in the city, dating back to 1856. Both make ideal stops on your nightly pub crawl.
Enjoy the atmosphere of Plaza Santa Ana
Popular with visitors and local families, Plaza Santa Ana is the grandest and liveliest plaza in the Huertas neighborhood. Here, you’ll find many fine breweries (one of which was Ernest Hemingway’s favorite hangout), the famous Reina Victoria Hotel (home to an exclusive rooftop bar), and one of Spain’s most iconic writers, Federico García Lorca. (in statue form, anyway).
See authentic flamenco at Cardamomo
Authentic flamenco is hard to find in Madrid. Sadly, Spain’s most passionate art form has, in most cases, been relegated to an expensive tourist spectacle in most places.
That is not the case at Cardamomo. Here, world-renowned artists take the stage every night to put on a spectacular show that truly deserves the name of flamenco . It’s not the cheapest Huertas experience, but if you have room in your budget, this is definitely a show you don’t want to miss.
Read your way along Calle Huertas (and stop for drinks and tapas along the way)
As you make your way down the main street of the same name, Calle Huertas, be sure to look down every now and then. The pavement has inscribed quotes from some of Spain’s most legendary literary minds, and you may even find a new favorite mantra as you stroll.
Unsurprisingly, given its central location, Calle Huertas is also one of the neighborhood’s must-see tapas destinations. Head from bar to bar, enjoying drinks and delicious bites in historic buildings, and you’ll be ready for the perfect night out.
The house where Cervantes died
History buffs, we don’t forget about you. Be sure to take 20 seconds to enjoy the food, drinks and music in the Huertas neighborhood to catch a glimpse of Calle Cervantes, 2. The street’s namesake and author of Don Quijote , Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, hailing from the nearby Alcalá de Henares. , but he spent a good part of his adult life in the Spanish capital. It was in this house that he died in 1616, and although the original building that stood here was demolished in the early 1800s, the replacement structure honors the great writer with a special plaque.