Nice might be famous for its brilliant Michelin-starred restaurants, but it’s the regional Provencal cuisine that is really worth looking for in the South of France. Follow the locals (and the aromas) to small traditional bistros that offer an authentic taste of this traditional cuisine. And don’t think that these are all family stores. Many are run by chefs who trained with the greats before going alone. Hidden among the tourist traps and pizzerias, you will find the true flavor that makes Niçoise’s cuisine as special as it is.
The Bistrot des Viviers
Direction
22 Rue Alphonse Karr, 06000 Nice, FranceGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 16 00 48
Web
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There are two parts to Le Bistrot des Viviers from chef Jacques Rolancy’s Le Bistrot des Viviers. The restaurant portion is a destination unto itself, but many prefer the smaller, 1900-style bistro. The decor may be a bit cliché, but the Art Deco style, stone walls, slate menus, white linen, and fresh flowers at the table they never go out of style. This is the place for high-end classics like scallop carpaccio with truffles and lobster risotto. The set menus keep the prices reasonable, and the all-French wine list is serious, which, if you’re not careful, can damage your wallet.
Snack
Direction
4 Rue Raoul Bosio, 06300 Niza, FranceGet directions
Web
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La Merenda is one of those legendary Old Town bistros that prefers not to change with the times, and everyone loves them for it. Reservations are mandatory (the joint is so small that it will be crammed around small, wooden, Spanish-style stools), and since the restaurant doesn’t have a phone, you’ll have to make the trip in person. Former Hotel Négresco chef Dominique le Stanc, who quit working at a two-star restaurant to focus on authentic local cuisine, has never looked back.
Chez Acchiardo
Direction
38 Rue Droite, 06300 Niza, FranciaGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 85 51 16
Web
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This family-run restaurant is popular with the locals and has been since the Italian Acchiardo family opened in 1927 in the old town. The casual atmosphere makes for a laid-back meal, starting with their best clam chowder and moving straight to classics like stuffed vegetables. Drink the wine they store in the barrel for a truly authentic experience. It’s also a great place for a fuel stop after shopping at the iconic Cours Saleya fruit and vegetable market.
The Alziari Table
Direction
4 Rue François Zanin, 06300 Nice, FranceGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 80 34 03
Sit on the restaurant’s outdoor terrace and order cod with potatoes, olives and tomatoes or lamb stew like Grandma used to do. Revered by the locals as an immovable institution in a dangerously changing world, La Table Alziari is run by the grandson of the olive oil family. Do not leave without buying one of its famous oils in the nearby store.
La Cantine de Lulu
Direction
26 Rue Alberti, 06000 Nice, FranceGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 62 15 33
Web
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For a truly local experience, get away from the hustle and bustle of the old town and head to the old student quarter north of Place Masséna to La Cantine de Lulu. In the intimate bistro, you’ll find home cooking as authentic as Grandma would make. This is your chance to sample a smorgasbord of specialties, from niçoise salads to fried zucchini flower beignets and hot daube braised beef stew.
Antoine’s Bistrot
Direction
27 Rue de la Préfecture, 06300 Niza, FranciaGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 85 29 57
Web
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Tucked away along the main avenue in the old town, this spot is a favorite with locals and travelers alike. Reservations are necessary, as Le Bistrot d’Antoine has a reputation to fill quickly. In winter, go to the cozy upstairs dining room; in summer, sit on the terrace and get ready to enjoy reinvented bistro food that adds a local Niçoise flair. The prices are reasonable; Dishes like mullet can be adventurous; and the wine list is fair. Even better, there is an impressive list of rums to complete the meal.
Put in the glass
Direction
17 Rue Pastorelli, 06000 Nice, FranceGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 85 69 90
Web
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The sister spot to the natural wine bar La Part des Anges, La Mise au Verre has the same intimacy as the cave, but serves cuisine alongside the most promising Parisian neo-bistros. Take a seat at one of the tables along the wall filled with wine bottles and order on the board above. The ingredients are organic and come mainly from France and Italy, and the wines, of course, are natural. You can order by the glass, but you’ll end up sticking around and polishing a bottle.
At Palmyre
Direction
5 Rue Droite, 06300 Niza, FranciaGet directions
Telephone
+33 4 93 85 72 32
Sitting along a side street near Place Saint François, Chez Palmyre is a local institution known for its traditional cuisine and a cozy atmosphere that will make you feel like you grew up eating here and are one of the family. At nearly a century old, this cozy little spot is known to be constantly packed (with reservations requiring more than a week in advance) with just a few tables lining the narrow space serving simple, yet flavorful French fare.
