Golden Hind in Marylebone (73 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PN) has been serving fish and chips for over 100 years. You can’t make a reservation, so there is always a line of diners waiting along the street outside (as is also at Le Relais de Venise l’Entrecote on the opposite side).
Golden Hind was opened in 1914 by an Italian family and they tell us that there have only been five owners since then. The current owner, Mr. Christou, took over the business in 2002 and has Greek staff working with him.
However, its long history cannot really be seen within the small restaurant. The old enameled art deco lobby dismantled by F Ford of Halifax is still there, but when we visited, we were taken to the extension that was added in 2014 for the centennial celebrations. The uncomplicated decor of white walls and wood paneling with basic wooden tables and chairs maintains a nostalgic simplicity.
Menu
The menu is kept simple with a selection of fish including cod, haddock, halibut, plaice, and rock salmon. Add a serving of hand-cut chunky chips and a side of mushy peas and you’ve got a classic British meal to enjoy.
At dinner, there was no takeout option and no small fish option, but we understand that both are available at lunchtime. There is also no children’s menu, but kids could do well with a regular-size cod.
The fish is offered in the standard battered style or steamed with some dried herbs. We chose steamed and the cod was juicy and delicious. Those thick fries weren’t the golden color you’d expect, but they tell us this is the usual way they cook them here, and they were freshly cooked, not greasy, and still tasted great.
We found our meals to be very filling and enjoyable, although we were surprised that the French fries were not included in the price of the fish (who orders only fish at a fish and chips restaurant?) Our bill was therefore a Little more than expected, but the food is good and this place has a positive reputation for a reason.
BYOB
The restaurant does not serve alcohol, but has a BYOB (Bring Your Own Booze) policy, and there are stores nearby that sell wine and beers. There is no corkage fee (you are not charged to bring your own drink), and the restaurant is happy to provide you with glasses.
Conclution
The service was not great, and it took a long time to pay the bill. By this time, a couple had already been ushered to our table and were waiting for us to leave. And then a side door opened and we were never more encouraged to leave sooner. I can’t imagine many diners wanting to add a service tip when this happens and we are not the only ones who think the service could improve.
Golden Hind is considered a cultural institution by many, but it really lacks the charm you may want. But the food is excellent, so if you can overlook the rudeness and availability of the service, then it’s worth a visit.
