The Hill of Slane in County Meath is one of the places with a strong connection to St. Patrick, but it is rarely visited by tourists. Why? Maybe because it’s a bit out of the way (and not that easy to find), maybe because its importance is overshadowed by more well-known nearby attractions, maybe because… there isn’t much to see.
On the other hand, some people would say that there is not much to see on the Hill of Tara either, a much more popular destination that is closely connected to the Hill of Slane via St. Patrick.
How to get to the hill of Slane?
Slane is a bottleneck on the N2 between Dublin and Derry, a reasonably short distance from Dublin or Drogheda. The current hill of Slane rises to the north of the city (at the main crossroads of the city, take the ‘uphill route’). A cemetery and some medieval ruins can be seen from the main road, there is a parking lot and a short walk will take you to them.
Why is the hill of Slane remarkable?
It is, as the saying goes, a command site, at over 500 feet or about 160 meters high, it is the largest hill in the area. And the great local hills were always seen as “special places”, for both ritual and military purposes.
Legend has it that King Fir Bolg Sláine mac Dela was buried here. Later called Druim Fuar, he was quickly renamed Dumha Sláine, the Hill of (King) Slane. There is actually an artificial mound at the top of the hill (at the western end). So while the mythical Sláine may not have been buried here, someone seems to have been. Or, at least, someone had gone to the trouble of raising a mound here. And there are two standing stones on the hill (in the cemetery), possible signs of another pagan place of worship.
Hence, the hill wouild has been an almost natural choice as the site of a Christian church – existing pagan shrines where happily adopted.
How did Saint Patrick connect with the hill of Slane?
In the 7th century, a “Life of Patrick” first compromised Patrick’s connection to writing. In this hagiography, the Hill of Slane was the Christian “stronghold” against the nearby Hill of Tara, still in the pagan hands of the Great Laoire King of Ireland.
Around Easter time (when pagan spring festivals were also celebrated), King Laoire observed the tradition of the night without fire: all fires in Ireland were to be extinguished. Then a great bonfire was lit on the hill of Tara, in the presence and command of the Great King. From this, all the other fires would ignite… metaphorically speaking, more than likely. This spring ritual transformed the Great King into a God-King, spring would begin at his command, symbolized by the bonfire.
Obviously Patrick couldn’t have a God-King in Christian Ireland. So, in defiance of ancient customs, he built his own bonfire, a Paschal Fire, on the hill of Slane. Lighting it before King Laoire’s fire was lit. As the Hill of Slane is only ten miles (as the crow flies) from the Hill of Tara, the High King and his nobles would have seen this fire, not to mention the peasants. Talk about a slap in the face …
King Laoire, however, also on the chin: allowed Patrick to continue his mission. Obviously, the missionary would have been detained only for sudden death, not for decree or admonition.
It is a true story?
Well, maybe… at least it’s possible. Another tradition says that Patrick appointed Saint Erc as the first bishop of Slane, so he might as well have been in the area.
The hill of Slane today
Slane Hill certainly served as a local center of religion for centuries to come; the ruins of a church and a monastery university can even be seen today on the hill. They include an impressive early Gothic tower, some twenty meters high and often climbed by adventurous visitors. There is documentary evidence that Slane Friary was restored in 1512, it was abandoned in 1723.
The legacy of Saint Patrick is remembered by a rather mediocre statue. It is somehow strange that in this place, where Patrick tempted fate by snubbing the Great Heathen King, no proper monument has been erected.
Go there anyway, if only for the medieval ruins and the view.
