County Offaly doesn’t have much to attract the visitor, so saying that the ancient monastic site of Clonmacnoise is one of the best attractions here could create the wrong picture. In fact, it is one of the best early Christian sites in Ireland.
And even though Clonmacnoise is never on its way (made worse by the creation of the new expressway connecting Dublin and Galway), a detour to see this monastic site is certainly worth the time and gas mileage. Situated at an old crossroads, where Esker Way and Shannon intersect, Clonmacnoise is not overrun by tourists. Even on weekends in the summer months it generally remains fairly quiet. This and the simply wonderful location make it a worthwhile target for sightseeing visitors.
Why you should visit Clonmacnoise (in a nutshell)
This is one of the best, and also one of the most important early Christian sites in the Midlands… and perhaps in all of Ireland. It sits in the middle of beautiful scenery, next to the Shannon, with a (ruined) castle close by to boot. And it can power two round towers, two tall crosses, a pilgrimage route, and ancient churches.
And while it may be a long way off today, this wasn’t always the case: Clonmacnoise guards the ancient crossroads of the River Shannon and the Esker Way, once the most important east-west route in Ireland. Established in 545 by Saint Ciarán himself, the monastery was supported by King Dermot, leading to Clonmacnoise becoming one of the most important Irish monasteries and a burial place for kings.
History is still alive here: the feast day of San Ciarán is celebrated even today on pilgrimage, on September 9.
A brief review of Clonmacnoise
Getting to Clonmacnoise can be a hassle – you’ll need a good road map and then follow small winding country lanes. As the site is next to the Shannon and quite low, you will only see the towers at the last minute.
The old crossroads was chosen by Saint Ciarán to build his monastery in 545 with the support of King Dermot. Unfortunately, Ciarán died shortly after, but Clonmacnoise became one of the most important seats of Christian learning in Europe. In addition, it was an important pilgrimage site and the burial place of the High Kings of Tara.
Today the visitor will find a splendid interpretation center, two round towers, medieval crosses, impressive churches (although mostly in ruins) and the remains of the ancient pilgrim route. Unfortunately, you will also see the construction of the pavilion for the visit of John Paul II, which, frankly, should be razed, papal connection or not. In addition to this eyesore, Clonmacnoise’s position directly on the banks of the Shannon offers magnificent views and peaceful tranquility.
Outside the main enclosure, you will find the Church of the Nuns, erected by Dervorgilla. This medieval fatal woman basically caused the conquest of Strongbow and 800 years of Irish misery.
As you leave the site and head to the parking lot, admire the evocative woodcut of the ‘Pilgrim’ and then walk onto the main road. The delicately balanced ruins of a Norman castle are worth a longer look. And look for the little Victorian mailbox on the wall – this is still in use!
Visit the Heritage Ireland website dedicated to Clonmacnoise, which will keep you up to date on opening hours and admission prices.
