You all know the twelve days of Christmas, from Shakespeare’s “Twelfth Night” to a partridge in a pear tree. But what happens during those twelve days in Ireland? I will try to give you a little summary, day by day. Actually for fourteen days, from Christmas Eve to the feast of the Epiphany.
December 24 – Christmas Eve
The Christmas tree was recently imported to Ireland, but Christmas Eve was the time when the candles were lit. After sunset, several candles, one for each member of the house, were placed in the windows. Either as a modernized pagan tradition or “to guide the Holy Family.” The largest candle was known as the coinneal mór na Nollag (“the great Christmas candle”). Then he went to church … And a drink with the neighbors afterwards.
December 25 – Christmas Day
If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this is your day: Ireland is practically dead to the world on Christmas Day. The day is spent with a close family, locked in the house, eating Brussels sprouts and watching the annual rerun of “The Sound of Music” on RTÉ. Only around 11 am, the streets fill with people, even the disbelievers head to mass. Perhaps the most boring day of the Irish year for visitors. Head to the natural attractions, everything else is closed.
December 26 – Saint Stephen’s Day (or Boxing Day)
Also known as “Wren Day”, the day of the mummers and the “Wren Boys”, traditionally young men in costume, recite meaningless poems, beg for sweets and wear a dead wren (these days usually in effigy). Similar traditional activities, albeit on a slightly more sophisticated level, are related to mummers. They perform in Ulster, Dublin and Wexford, keeping popular theater alive.
December 27 -Sales
This is the day the shops go into overdrive: the sales start after Christmas and the queues start to form at seven o’clock in Dublin. Avoid Brown-Thomas, Arnott’s and Clery’s near opening hours… unless you want to be among the mob looking for the best bargains. By the way, December 27 is also the feast day of John the Evangelist.
December 28 – Feast of the Holy Innocents
On this day, Herod apparently ordered the slaughter of all the firstborn, making the “childermas” one of the most unfortunate days in popular custom. Don’t start any business or business trip, to make sure you don’t start anything. The “boy bishops” were dethroned on this day. But this medieval tradition is long dead, in Ireland today no young adult can be found assuming the throne of a bishop during the Christmas period.
December 29 and December 30
There are no specific traditions related to these days: today they are used for shopping (mainly to stock up on alcohol) or to take children to the zoo, also a traditional tradition, especially in Dublin.
December 31 – New Years Eve
Ireland doesn’t do New Year’s Eve in a style that rivals New York’s Times Square, London’s Trafalgar Square, or Edinburgh’s Hogmanay – parties and celebrations are a scattered affair. And heavily fueled with alcohol. If you visit during this period, it may be a good idea to book one of the organized festivities in advance. Unless you want to join the masses trying to get a pint at the pub …
January 1 – New Years Day
“All is quiet on New Year’s Day”… U2 was right: the morning begins with deathly silence. Mainly due to the revelry of the night before. Nobody remembers that this is the “Feast of the Circumcision of Our Lord Jesus Christ.” As in Roman times, this was also the feast of Janus, the god of doors and two-sided openings. Why not visit the ancient Janus-like figures on Boa Island? You will probably be the only person there.
January 2 (Feast of the Holy Name of Jesus) to January 4
These days are generally used to visit more distant friends and relatives, cleaning up the remains, so to speak. There is no set agenda.
January 5 – Twelfth Night and Twelfth Night
Twelfth night was traditionally the time when Christmas proper ended, hence the “Twelve Days of Christmas” (beginning on December 25). It was a night of festivities, joy and practical jokes. These days, school starts anew around this time, marking the end of “Christmas holidays” for everyone. However, it is very likely that the last wild party will be held on a convenient weekend, not necessarily on the 12th night.
January 6 – Epiphany
This day is the Feast of the Epiphany of Our Lord Jesus Christ, traditionally related to the Adoration of the Magi, or Old Christmas Day (according to the Gregorian calendar and still observed by some Orthodox churches). In Ireland it is better known as Nollaig mBan – Little Christmas or “Women’s Christmas”. This was the day when women were appreciated, they could put their feet up and (after twelve or more days of slavery to keep men happy) and enjoy. An almost forgotten tradition.
Handsel Monday
We must not forget the Irish tradition of Handsel Monday, the first Monday in January, when children received little gifts, called (you guessed it) ‘handsels’.
