Should you visit Drogheda? To be fair, at first glance, Dublin’s north twin isn’t much of a standout. But again, the churches, Georgian architecture, a splendid medieval city gate, and the head of St. Oliver Plunkett can make a short visit worthwhile.
Drogheda straddles the mouth of the Boyne and is the southernmost town in County Louth. Part of Drogheda was once in County Meath. Long known as a bottleneck on the way from Dublin to Belfast, it now runs over the Boyne Bridge and the M1, a connection that locals may wish had existed in Cromwell’s time.
Drogheda in a nutshell
Drogheda is an industrial center and has a port (although not immediately obvious) that once contributed to the prosperity of the city, but is now in a not very picturesque state. The latter could be said in many areas of the city center, as Georgian buildings are often left in disrepair, right next to new commercial developments. Medieval ruins are littered with nondescript vernacular buildings.
Walking around Drogheda, especially on a gray and rainy day, can be a bit of a depressing experience. But there are some highlights that make the city worth a visit for those willing to search.
A brief history of Drogheda
The name of Drogheda is derived from the Irish “Droichead Átha”, literally “bridge in the ford”, a name that sums up the reason for the agreement. There was a ford, and later a bridge, that was part of the main North-South route on the east coast. It was a place for commerce and defense.
It is no wonder that two cities arose: Drogheda-in-Meath and Drogheda-in-Oriel. Finally, in 1412, the two Droghedas became a “County of the city of Drogheda.” In 1898, the town, which still retains some independence, became part of County Louth.
During the Middle Ages, Drogheda as a walled city formed an important part of the ‘pale’, and it also hosted the Irish Parliament at times. Being strategically important practically guaranteed a not-so-peaceful existence, and the city was besieged several times. The most infamous siege ended with Oliver Cromwell taking Drogheda in September 1649. What happened next is deeply ingrained in the collective Irish psyche: Cromwell’s massacre of the royal garrison and the civilian population of Drogheda.
The exact facts surrounding this atrocity are still disputed.
During the Williamsmite Wars, Drogheda was well defended and King Williams’ troops decided to avoid it, leaving Boyne at Oldbridge. The Battle of Boyne in 1690 remains one of the most important Irish events in history.
During the 19th century, Drogheda reinvented itself as a commercial and industrial center. Beginning in 1825, the “Drogheda Steam Packet Company” provided a maritime link to Liverpool. The city’s motto “God, our strength, merchandise, our glory” said it all, although the 20th century saw a slight decline in fortune. The city still retained part of the industry and the service sector replaced others. A large influx of inhabitants occurred during the ‘Celtic Tiger’ years, when Drogheda suddenly became part of the commuter belt for Dublin.
Places to visit in Drogheda
A walk through the center of Drogheda will take less than an hour and most of the attractions, with the exception of the Millmount Museum. Parking can be a bit of a problem at times, follow the signs and take your first chance (downtown traffic is maddening here). Then explore on foot:
- St. Laurence’s Gate (corner of Laurence Street and Palace Street) is an almost complete part of the medieval city wall and is still imposing. However, traffic flows through it and the built surroundings somehow detract from the gate. From here, you can still trace the previous city limits by following the paths that replaced the ramparts.
- The Tower of St. Mary Magdalene (between Magdalen Street Upper and Patrick Street) is all that remains of the convent of that name at one of the highest points in the city, a splendid medieval bell tower.
- St. Peter’s Church (Church of Ireland, Peter Street) is interesting for its cemetery. Located on a wall behind the church, you will find a medieval tomb slab depicting the deceased as skeletons scantily clad in funeral sheets. This realistic image, which serves as a mori keepsake for those left behind, was in vogue for a brief period and contrasts with more sumptuous images and more conventional medieval tombs.
- St. Peter’s Church (Roman Catholic, West Street) is a large Catholic church in the center of the city and a place of pilgrimage. Here you can see the head of Saint Oliver Plunkett. In a shrine behind glass, the somewhat wrinkled countenance of Ireland’s last saint is not a pretty sight. A small exhibition also informs visitors of the martyrdom of Saint Oliver Plunkett at the hands of the English.
- The still impressive Tholsel , the old city hall, sits on the corner of West Street and Shop Street.
- The Millmount Museum on Barrack Street on the site of a former castle, the museum towers over Drogheda, albeit from the (south) end of the river. The exhibits on local history and industry are worth a visit.
Miscellaneous Drogheda
Visitors interested in railway history should visit Ireland’s railway station (some old buildings off Dublin Road) and take a look at the impressive Boyne Viaduct.
Drogheda United is one of the most notable soccer teams in Ireland, winning several trophies. His homeland can be found on Windmill Road.
Local myth perpetuates the story that the star and crescent were added to the city’s weapons because the Ottoman Empire sent ships with food to Drogheda during the great famine. Unfortunately, no historical record supports this and the symbols predate the famine as well.
