Visiting Longford County? This part of the Irish province of Leinster has a number of attractions that you don’t want to miss, as well as some interesting attractions that are a bit off the beaten path. So why not take your time and spend a day or two in Longford when visiting Ireland?
From Edgeworthstown’s literary connections to Harry Clarke’s windows, here are some ideas on what to know and how to experience County Longford.
Longford – the Midlands in detail
County Longford may be a forgotten part of Ireland, but it certainly shouldn’t be neglected. Here are some interesting facts:
- The Irish name for County Longford is Contae an Longfort (note the minor spelling variant) – this name derives from the Viking word for a safe harbor, a ‘Fortress’ or ‘Fortified House’.
- Car registrations issued in Longford County have the letters LD on the license plate.
- The county town is Longford Town, other cities of regional importance are Ballymahon, Edgeworthstown and Granard.
- The size of Longford County is given as 421 square miles (1,034 square kilometers) in surveys.
- Longford County’s population came to 40,873 in the 2016 census. There’s room for more, Longford has a host of ‘ghost states’
- A common nickname for County Longford is “County O’Farrell”, which identifies the great local wigs of yesteryear.
- Longford’s players are known as “the Slashers” in GAA circles, denoting their successful, if rather messy, technique on the field of play.
Visit St. Mel’s Cathedral to see the window
St Mel’s Cathedral in Longford Town is a massive, architecturally interesting creation. While it may not be classic, it is an intriguing building worth admiring. What makes it interesting is the view not from, but from its windows. Some fine stained glass windows by Irish artist Harry Clarke adorn the cathedral. Unfortunately, the building caught fire on Christmas 2009, but the windows survived and restoration work is ongoing.
Follow the trail of famous writers
Edgeworthstown has a picturesque main street and a detour that is adorned with a beautiful statue of Maria Edgeworth, selecting reading material from a shelf. The writer was born here and was judged by the literary luminaries of her time. None other than Sir Walter Scott and William Wordsworth followed his call to Longford Backwater for good company and even better conversation. Today, Edgeworthstown doesn’t seem to exploit the connection to Maria Edgeworth as much as it could. Oliver Goldsmith (born in the town of Pallas in Longford) is a more obvious presence, with billboards nearby highlighting parts of “Goldsmith County” stretching through parts of Longford.
Old road through the Longford County marshes
The Corlea Road is an Iron Age road (known in Irish as “togher”) that appears to cross a bog in County Longford, near the town of Kenagh, west of Edgeworthstown. Also known locally as the ‘Road of the Danes’, it has no connection to the Danish Vikings and has no actual connection to a discernible road network. It’s still mysterious enough to encourage speculation despite the very good visitor center.
While working on the Corlea Bog, archaeologists discovered no fewer than 108 “toghers” or causeways. Another 76 were identified in (or in) the Derryoghil swamp just to the north. Most were made of simple woven obstacles that were easy to construct and that allowed people to cross the swamp on foot.
As you drive through Longford County, you will see bleak, brown areas to the left and right of (often elevated) roads – these are swamps being mined for lawns, some with massive machinery. Take a look, if you can park safely. Giant tractors towing milling machines, small narrow-gauge railways that cut through the waste. And always that feeling of dust. Jump up and down over the dry and exposed parts of the swamp. If you do, you will feel how it seems to back off and muffle you.
Just don’t go too far, don’t get lost even in the path of machinery. And never, ever use an open fire (from carelessly throwing a cigarette) into the swamp.
Picture-Postcard Cornish Village – Ardagh
No more than a small town, Ardagh is often among the most picturesque small settlements in Ireland. Clustering around the “green” compact, the entire town was created basically as accommodation for the servants and employees of a local landowner. The owner in question had his own ideas about building styles and instead of adopting Irish architecture, he modeled his village on English and Cornish prototypes. Ardagh is perhaps the most “English” of all Irish peoples due to this peculiarity.
Live Irish Folk Music Sessions in Longford
Visiting County Longford and looking for a traditional evening activity? Well, you could do worse than go out to a local pub (which, by default, will be an »original Irish pub«) and then join in a session of traditional Irish music. Why not give it a try?
Most sessions start around 9:30 pm or when a few musicians get together. Here are some reliable places:
Lanesboro – “Arms of Loughree”
Longford Town – “Tally Ho”
