Visiting County Offaly? This part of the Irish province of Leinster has a number of attractions that you won’t want to miss. Plus some interesting sights that are a bit off the beaten path. It is also home to the ancestors of President Obama, so you can find yourself in a famous company if you take your time and spend a day or two in Offaly when visiting Ireland.
Obama’s roots, Biffo County
You most likely hear about Offaly only by association with Barack Obama or “Biffo” Cowen. Didn’t you know that President Obama was Irish? Before we get to that, let’s first look at some facts about County Offaly:
- The Irish name for County Offaly is Contae Uíbh Fhailí , which literally means “Children of Failure”, referring to the legendary local king Failge Berraide (who reigned around 510).
- Between 1556 and 1920, Offaly was better known as the “King’s County”, in honor of King Felipe II of Spain (husband of the English queen “Bloody” Mary).
- The Offaly County issued car registration has the letters OY on the license plate.
- The town of Offaly is Tullamore, other major towns in the county are Banagher, Birr, Clara, and Edenderry.
- County Offaly measures exactly 2,000 square kilometers.
- The number of inhabitants amounts to 78,003, according to the 2016 census.
- A common nickname for Offaly is “the faithful county.”
- On a less pleasant note, Offaly people (like former Taoiseach Brian Cowen) often come out as Biffos, slang for an insult meaning “Big Ignorant Feckers from Offaly.”
- Barack Obama’s Irish roots were later discovered in County Offaly, so Biffo also became an acronym for “Offaly’s Important Black Fellow.”
Clonmacnoise, ecclesiastical city next to the Shannon
Although Clonmacnoise is never really on the way, a detour to see this monastic site is worth the time and gas. Situated at an ancient crossroads where the Esker Way and the Shannon meet a beautiful and authentic High Cross, Clonmacnoise is never overrun by tourists. Thanks to its off-the-beaten-path vibe in County Offaly, it is generally quiet and peaceful even on summer weekends.
This and the simply wonderful location make it a worthwhile target for traveling tourists. Getting to Clonmacnoise can be a hassle – you’ll need a good road map and then follow small winding country lanes through Offaly. Note that because the site is next to the Shannon and is quite low, you will only see the towers at the last minute.
Birr, the castle, the leviathan
The pride of place in the heritage town of Birr must go to Birr Castle, which is still in private hands and in front of a practical, but unfortunately ugly parking lot. Once you enter the castle courtyard, this ugliness is quickly forgotten. An exhibition tells you about the history of the castle, the gardens, and a bit of astronomy.
The third Earl of Rosse was so drawn to stargazing that he not only studied astronomy, but proceeded to build the world’s largest telescope in his backyard. The aptly named ‘Leviathan’ from the 1840s has been restored in recent years and is one of Ireland’s most important technical monuments.
Visit the Irish Game and Country Fair at Birr Castle
The Irish game and country fair at Birr Castle is a perfect way to discover Irish country life (or at least the lifestyle promoted by the gentle Irish peasant and woman). Either way it’s a great day at Offaly
The fair is now an annual part of the County Offaly event calendar and is well worth a visit. The actual displays change, but you can always expect a living story and lifestyle shopping in true Offaly style.
Sculptures in the swamps
If you’re feeling artistic or energetic, head to Lough Boora Parklands: on the one hand, you can find miles and miles of trails through the (slowly) reclaimed swamps, on the other hand, an extensive sculpture park awaits you. With facilities that are positively huge and often inspiring (and occasionally too large), this is a great visit.
On the trail of Obama’s ancestor
From the moment Obama began running for president, and even more so after he was elected, change has certainly come to Moneygall in County Offaly. The sleepy town, hitherto known primarily for slowing traffic on the N7, suddenly reinvented itself as “Obama’s Farm.” In 2011, the big man came to see the small town with the usual amenities, some nice houses along the road and a pub that now flies the Stars & Stripes. This would be Ollie Hays’, where the song “There is no one as Irish as Barack O’Bama” by Hardy Drew and the Nancy Boys had its premiere in 2008.
Live Irish Traditional Music Sessions in Offaly
Visiting County Offaly and having to do something at night? Well, you can always join the locals by taking a trip to the nearest pub (which, by default, will be an »original Irish pub«) and then joining a traditional Irish session.
Most sessions start around 9:30 pm or when a few musicians get together. Here are some reliable places around Offaly:
Banagher – «JJ Haugh’s»
Ferbane – “Taberna de Tom”
Kilcormac – “Feigherty’s”
Shannonbridge – “Village Tavern”
