Lough Derg, also commonly known as Saint Patrick’s Purgatory, is as far from a tourist attraction as possible; Instead, this is a strictly open pilgrimage site for those seeking meaning and direction (or just quiet contemplation). And, to be honest, it would be off putting to anyone who is not of Roman Catholic persuasion, as the rites and rituals of this faith permeate the site.
“Let’s take a quick look, take a selfie, and then again (unless they have a coffee shop)” type visits are definitely discouraged. To be frank, they are also impossible: once you are on the island, you are trapped, and no payment to the ferryman will change that.
But for any traveler who wants to experience the spirituality of Ireland, Lough Derg and Saint Patrick’s Purgatory are definitely worth serious consideration. Serious in every way, as the entire pilgrimage is not to be taken lightly. And it takes some time.
Pros and cons of visiting Lough Derg
The advantages of visiting Lough Derg include:
- Lough Derg is one of Ireland’s classic pilgrimage sites, and one of the few that still accommodates pilgrimages on a very regular basis.
- The island in Lough Derg offers complete pilgrimages, retreats and also quiet and easy days.
- Visiting Lough Derg can be a rare spiritual experience, but the entire pilgrimage will be physically (and mentally) demanding.
Cons include:
- This is definitely not an attraction for the average tourist, who will have to stop on the mainland.
- The full three-day pilgrimage is a grueling experience involving sleep deprivation and fasting.
A brief history of Lough Derg
The islands in Lough Derg have long been connected to Saint Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, who not only worked wonders here but also descended into purgatory. This was facilitated, according to legend, by Jesus himself, so that Patrick could preach hellfire and damnation with more conviction.
Later, simply called »Saint Patrick’s Purgatory«, the islands became an important pilgrimage site in the Middle Ages. Apparently part of the attraction was a cave system, which induced visions in many … whether due to noxious gases, tricks of light or simple hysteria is open for discussion, although the church (of course) insisted on that all of this was a sign of God’s hand at work (in the usual mysterious ways). The tradition of visiting Lough Derg was severely restricted by the reform.
Revived as a pilgrimage site in the 19th and 20th centuries, Lough Derg began offering increasingly comprehensive pilgrimage facilities, but with little comfort. Therefore, the three-day pilgrimage should be done by devout pilgrims only, they are definitely not a ‘fun experience’.
Is a visit to Lough Derg for you?
Lough Derg, still known as St. Patrick’s Purgatory, is close to the coast, tempting close, but far away (and can only be reached by ferry). The ecclesiastical buildings of the island refuge in Lough Derg are generally visible from the south coast. Here Pettigo’s R233 ends abruptly after taking the traveler north through the desert for a few miles. And for the occasional visitor, this will also mark the end of the journey; Unless you go to the island on a spiritual quest, you will not be allowed to continue.
Proceed must (only) if you are looking to experience total immersion in Irish spirituality (of strict Roman Catholic persuasion).
For this, Lough Derg offers the following options:
- Three-day pilgrimages
This complete and classic pilgrimage can be started almost any day between June, July or August and must start on an empty stomach from midnight before arrival. Pilgrims must be at least 15 years old and in moderately good health. This pilgrimage involves fasting, walking barefoot (sometimes through icy water), sleep deprivation, and frequent kneeling! - One day retreats
This is a kind of “pilgrimage light” with less strenuous conditions, requires prior reservation. The retreat days are in May, August and September.
- Quiet days
Lough Derg also offers simple and quiet days “where you can be alone and rest for a while.” Reservations are essential to guarantee the correct contemplative atmosphere.
If Lough Derg tempts you, be sure to visit their website, and you can also read Pete McCarthy’s “McCarthy’s Bar” for a very personal (and partly quite hilarious) description of the entire pilgrimage.
