Ireland’s northernmost province of Ulster consists of nine counties, six of which make up Northern Ireland. The name of the province in Ulster-Scots is “Ulstèr”, and in Irish “Cúige Uladh”, which literally translated means “the Fifth of the Uladh”, referring to the ancient five provinces of Ireland.
Although Ulster in Northern Ireland, it is important to know that Ulster is not the same as Northern Ireland: three counties in Ulster are actually part of the Republic of Ireland. (Also, geographically speaking, the county found that the northernmost tip of the Emerald Isle belongs politically to the ‘South’ – the Republic of Ireland).
Ulster encompasses the counties of Antrim, Armagh, Cavan, Derry, Donegal, Down, Fermanagh, Monaghan, and Tyrone. Since 1921 Antrim, Armagh, Derry (Londonderry), Down, Fermanagh and Tyrone have been part of Northern Ireland. Cavan, Donegal, and Monaghan are the three Ulster counties that remained within the Free State and later became known as the Republic. The nine counties together make up Northern Ireland geographically, and six of the nine make up the country of Northern Ireland.
Here’s a closer look at the nine counties in Ulster.
County Antrim: the glens and the causeway coast
Antrim (in Irish “Aontroim”, in Ulster-Scots “Coonty Entrim”) is one of the six counties of Northern Ireland, which means that it is part of the United Kingdom. County Antrim is about 1,176 square miles (3,046 square kilometers) in size and is home to a population of approximately 618,000.
The former county town was the city of Belfast, but the county’s most famous destination is the Giant’s Causeway. Antrim is also a popular filming location for HBO’s Game of Thrones.
In GAA circles, the Antrim players are called “the men of Glens” (referring to the idyllic glens of Antrim), the name “the saffrons” (referring to the colors of the county) is also quite common.
County Armagh – Cider and Cathedrals
Armagh (in Irish “Ard Mhacha”) is one of the “Six Counties” of Northern Ireland and therefore part of the United Kingdom. With an area of more than 512 square miles (1,254 square kilometers), it is home to about 174,792 inhabitants. The county town of Armagh used to be the town of Armagh, the “cathedral town.”
The name Armagh refers to the ‘Hills of Macha’, a mythological goddess or queen who played an important role in early Irish epics. Armagh is still sometimes nicknamed “Cathedral County,” but is often called “Orchard County,” thanks to the county’s bountiful apple and pear trees. South Armagh was also known as “Bandit Country”, mainly due to the strong cross-border activity of nationalist paramilitaries during The Troubles.
Stop at St. Patrick’s Cathedral in downtown Armagh, or spend a day on the shores of Loch Neagh.
Cavan County – Lake County
Cavan is one of the three counties of Ulster that belong to the Republic of Ireland. It claims to have more than 365 lakes (and “more when it rains”, or so the joke goes), a lake for every day of the year. The county encompasses 746 square miles (1,932 square kilometers), with a population of around 76,000 people.
Poor Cavan is a butt of jokes in Ireland, and Cavan’s man is known for being too cheap to spend any money. The quiet county is quite rural and is primarily home to farms, fields, and forest parks perfect for slow walks. Head to Killykeen Forest Park for a wooded picnic area, or stop at Cavan Cathedral if the weather is rainy.
County Derry – or Londonderry, names are important here
Derry (in Irish “Doire”, in English-British “Londonderry”, in Ulster-Scots “Lunnonderrie”) is part of Northern Ireland and the United Kingdom. It is officially Co Londonderry, but is almost always known as simply Derry. The county is 801 square miles (2,108 square kilometers) in size and is home to a population of approximately 247,000. The original name “Derry” means an oak grove, explaining the county’s nickname: “Oak-Leaf County” (Arms County has an oak leaf). The addition ‘London-‘ was introduced to honor the investment made by the city in the plantation era (and is therefore only used in unionist circles today).
After Belfast, Derry is the second largest city in Northern Ireland. It is famous for its walls, which date back to the 17th century. The area was briefly self-contained in the late 1960s and early 1970s, and there is now a museum dedicated to ‘Free Derry’.
Derry is sometimes known as “Stroke City” thanks to its double name. The unwieldy name “Derry / Londonderry” had to be read on the radio as “Derry-stroke-Londonderry,” so a local DJ suggested shortening the whole thing to “Stroke City,” and he caught on.
County Donegal – The last northern part of Ireland, in the south
Donegal is the northernmost county in the Republic, stretching further north than any other county in Northern Ireland, extending over an area of 1,877 square miles (4,830 square kilometers). Although large, the country is sparsely populated, with just over 150,000 people. The beautiful rugged landscape has the highest cliffs in Ireland – the Slieve League, which is a beautiful alternative to the busier Cliffs of Moher further south. For an even more remote wilderness outpost, head to Glenveagh National Park.
County Down: majestic mountains and a long lake
Down (in Irish “An Dún” or “An Dúin”) is one of the “Six Counties” in Ulster that belong to Northern Ireland and are part of the United Kingdom. The county is 952 square miles (2,466 square kilometers) in size with about 531,000 residents.
The Irish name simply means “the strong one.” The nicknames are “County Morne” (the Morne Mountains dominate the south of the county), while the Down Hurlers are called “the Ardsmen” (with the Ards Peninsula seemingly drawing most of the pitching talent).
Down is often ranked as one of the best golf courses in the world, particularly the Royal County Down. For nature lovers, Tollymore Forest Park has lovely scenery and many trails to explore. For true wilderness, plan a stop to climb the Morne Mountains.
County Fermanagh – the Lakelands, full of castles
Fermanagh (in Irish “Fear Manach”, in Ulster-Scots “Coontie Fermanay”) is part of Northern Ireland Ulster and the United Kingdom. About 57,500 residents live in 653 square miles (1,852 square kilometers). It is the smallest of the six counties in Northern Ireland.
The county name refers to “the men of Manach”, Fermanagh’s nicknames are “auch als”, “County Maguire” (referring to the family that once ruled), “Lakeland”, “Lake County” or Erne County. The lakes are a great attraction for fishermen and boaters.
The county’s top attractions include the majestic Enniskillen Castle and the old monastery at Devenish, a small island in Lower Lough Erne that can be reached by ferry from Trory Point.
County Monaghan – Poetry on the Border
County Monaghan is the last of the three counties in the province of Ulster that are actually part of the Republic of Ireland. It is primarily known for being the home of Patrick Kavanagh, one of Ireland’s most beloved poets. He writes about Monaghan in his poems “Stony Gray Soil” and “Shancoduff.”
The county is spread over 500 square miles (1,295 square kilometers) and is home to about 60,000 people. The rural county has traditional country pubs, and a tourist attraction is the round tower of Clones.
County Tyrone – Right in the middle
Tyrone (in Irish “Tír Eoghain”, in Ulster-Scots “Coontie Owenslann”) is one of the six counties of the north of Ireland and, therefore, part of the United Kingdom. Measuring 1,218 square miles (3,263 square kilometers) and around 150,000 residents, it is centered around the county’s largest city: Omagh.
The name of the county denotes the “land of Eoghan” (or “land of Owen”), the possessions of an Irish prince of the semi-mythological era. Referring to the more recent rulers and their daring actions, Tyrone is also known as “O’Neill County” or “Red Hand County.”
To get an idea of what it would have been like to leave Ireland and set sail as an immigrant to the United States, visit the Ulster America Folk Park. Otherwise, skip the costumed characters and experience unspoiled nature in the Sperrin Mountains.
